Valve Adjustment

[Mbarna]

Ok guys, so my bike could definitely use a valve adjustment. However, after calling Action Yamaha of Edison, New Jersey, i was informed abruptly that it would cost at least 300 dollars. my jaw hit the floor. I've been told previously that a valve adjustment is only about an hour's worth of work.

So, right now i'm terrified.. i'm terrified of paying 300 dollars to have my valves adjusted, but i'm more terrified of doing it myself. Has anyone done a write-up on valve adjustments? I know, i know, shop manual... i haven't even looked at the process - this is just really a feeler thread. is there ANYONE in the new jersey/ny/pa area "in the know" about this stuff that might be willing to give me a hand? i've got warm meals, cold beer and good music (and a dad who'll talk your goddamn ear off for hours). anyone?

[XJOK2PLAY]

Hi, Mbarna...

FYI... you might get a better response if you re-post this in the "discussion" forum instead of here. Only those grazing for parts tour through here usually!

And, I'm sure there will be threads about this subject, as well as someone nearby you can bribe....
Good luck.
Bob

[Mbarna]

oh duh! wrong section.. and yes, i did a search but didn't find anything. sorry!

[DiverRay]

Valve adjustment is fairly easy, with only one tool that you MAY want to buy. Motion Pro makes a tool to keep the valve depressed so you can remove the shim. Some people don't like it, I have no problem with it.
First thing you WILL need is the proper manual for your bike. Different years have slightly different clearance for the valves. To get the valve cover off, you need to remove the seat, then the tank. After that, it depends on the model you have. For a 1978 through 1980 Standard, just remove the ballast resistor and then all the cap screws on the valve cover. The Specials may require the removal of the horns as well as the ballast resistor, if it's on your bike.
You then remove the LEFT crank cover so you can turn the crank with a wrench. As each pair of cam lobes are pointing almost up, you measure the clearance between the cam and valve. Use some paper to write this down! After you have checked ALL the valves, go to the ones that are less or more than needed. Use the tool, or pull the cam shaft up, depending on your mode of operation, and use a magnet to remove the shim. It helps to pry it up with a small screw driver first.
The bottom side of the shim will have a number on it. It should be between 240 and 320. This is the thickness of the shim in millimeters, 2.4 to 3.2. the shims are in .05mm increments, 2.49, 2.45, etc. there is a chart on this site that will help you chose the proper shim to use. IF you CANNOT swap the shims around in the bike, you can usually go to an INDEPENDENT repair shop and "swap" shims for about $1.00 or $2.00 each.
I use "The Right Stuff" gasket maker for the new valve cover gaskets, as a "large" can at the auto parts store is about $14.00, and will do about 6 gaskets. Much cheaper than stock, and works VERY well.
Welcome to the site!

[BossMaverick]

My suggestion for the manual is to order the $10 CD from TopCatGr58. Any XS/XJ owner should get that CD. You will also need a metric set of feeler gauges ($15 or less at any parts store), the valve cover gasket (Parts N More has them), the Motion Pro tool (for a novice mechanic I would suggest this tool over pulling the camshaft), and find a shop or dealer that has the shims.

Valve adjustment is actually an easy job. Plan on 2 to 3 hours for your first time. The instructions make it seem a whole lot harder than what it is. On a hardness scale I would rate it a 3.5/10 (I would rate an oil and filter change at a 2/10). The hardest part will be tracking down the valve shims for a decent price.

I would highly suggest you learn how to do it yourself since it's recommended every 4,000 miles; but if you really don't want to try it, call a non-dealer repair shop. $300 is way too high of a price for how easy a valve adjustment is.

[DGXSER]

What do you expect its a dealership. Not to highjack the thread, but I took my F150 to a dealership to get an alignment done, they called and told me it needed $1300 worth of work before they could align it. I just replaced the ball joints. They wanted to do the tie rod ends (inner and outer) Idler arm, brakes and rotors. I spent yesterday replacing all but the rotors. Cost me $160 in parts, and maybe 4 hours of labor all together. So they should be able to do in three or less. At $80 an hour and double the parts cost.....Still not close to $1300. Those must be some DANG expensive rotors to Ford!!!

Long story to say, do it yourself, know it is done right, and learn a little while your at it.

[randy]

mbarna;

I can help you but it has to be early tomorrow. I'm on my way to PA and have to be on 287 by 1PM. I have over 100 shims, so I'm confident we can get your valves adjusted, but you'll need a carb sync afterward. I also have the mercury sticks. Trouble with the XJ, though is you've got the YICS system so we won't be able to get the sync 100%, but we can get it close.

It would be helpful to have the seat and tank off when I get there. If tomorrow at 9 works for you, PM me your address.

[TopCatGr58]

Also remove the valve cover as well, many bolts, takes some time to unscrew them. Also, if you don't have a replacement gasket, you can either cut your own, a PITA with that intricate shape, but can also use just gasket maker/sealer without a gasket! Also remove the spark plugs, makes turning the engine around/over easier. Also remove the left crank shaft timing cover. Have it on CENTERSTAND. DON'T touch the cam chain tensioner!!!

Have your clearances measurements written down on a nice big grid pattern with cylinders/intake/exhaust notated, so that when Randy removes the shims, calculation can be done quickly to determine what size shim will be needed, you won't know till you pull the shim and look at it's underside, the size is etched/stamped on that side!!
T.C.

[randy]

While it's true all that needs to be removed, I'd actually rather you didn't. If I'm the one reassembling it, I want to be the one that disassembles it. I'm anal that way

[TopCatGr58]

While it's true all that needs to be removed, I'd actually rather you didn't. If I'm the one reassembling it, I want to be the one that disassembles it. I'm anal that way

Well, at least if YOU put a SHIM in backwards it won't keep it from reaching 5th gear!
Mbarna, that's an INSIDE joke, I'll let Randy explain it IF he feels up to it! None of us are without flaws, apparently I put in a pilot jet on the same bike and didn't tighten it up, made tuning it rather problematic when it fell out into the float bowl!

Just trying to help with the time crunch/restriction! Perhaps he could at least get all of the bolts loosened, so that they can be more quickly spun out/off!?

Hope it goes quickly!
T.C.

[randy]

Ouch!

Never mind the explanation. It's on a need-to-know basis!

[earlybird]

[QUOTE=randy;217153]mbarna;

I like your quote at the bottom.
"I`d rather be on my motorcycle thinking about God, than in church thinking about my motorcycle"
I am a biking Jehovah`s Witness and it is hard sometimes to resist the lure of wind in my face on the highway. More so when the sun shines here.

[andylawcc]

don't touch the cam chain tensioner

is it because the 'valve tool method' was used here, and if you are using the "remove the whole cam method" you should remove the CCT?

Valve Adj Pictorial
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35434

[DGXSER]

Andy, yes, you will want to remove the cam chain tensioner to remove the cams.

A word of caution I feel is important but not included in that tip, keep tension, tightness on the cam chain. What I mean is that the biggest problem that develops when people remove the cam chain tensioner or mess with the cams, is that the chain drops off the crankshaft sprocket, and when they pull it back up, it does not seat properly against the crank sprocket, one link in the chain kinks up under there, causing the timing to go out AFTER it looks good and everything is installed. Which then can end up with a bunch of bent valves.

The way I overcome this is to use wires through the cam chain tied to the upper frame in a couple places to keep pulling the chain up against the crankshaft pulley. Every time I remove something that gives slack to the chain, I tighten the wires to keep the tension.

[andylawcc]

thank you Don, again