Final Gear Oil, Clutch adjustments and Starting Instructions

[digitalsam]

Ok, I bled the brakes and think I have the clutch adjusted... (how are you supposed to tell when the bolt contacts the plate?). I am almost ready to run down and buy a gallon of gas, but...

ONE) I have yet to get the final gear oil filling bolt off. Have tried WD40, an impact driver and think that I may have stripped the hex out of it. (little pun)
Does anyone have suggestions? Can I start it up and ride it a mile to a machine shop to have them drill it out? It has been drained, is there any other way to fill it? Does anyone have a spar I can purchase or is it available as an aftermarket part?

TWO) Once the first issue is resolved, is there anything I need to know before I start it up? Priming things etc?

Maybe tomorrow afternoon this baby will run!

[MrOzz]

I know the filler bolt on my middle drive was jamed on. I used some vice grips grabbed the edge and got it off. I used PB Blaster penetrating spray first.

[dpotter58]

Use a cold chisel and hammer; put the chisel on the edge of the plug and tap it to turn it. You are not trying to cut the plug off, only to turn it.

[motoman]

Snap a small GOOD pair of visegrips on shoulder of those fill plugs and tap visegrips with a hammer.................works.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Sam,

The final drive filler plug is recessed in the drive, and so it's not possible to put a pair of vice grips on it like the middle drive. Like Doug said, chisel into the top edge to get a grip into the top of the plug, and tap around. Also, applying some heat from a torch or heat gun to the final drive around the plug can help expand the aluminum and possibly break the corrosion welding that's occurred. Also, get a can of PB Blaster, spritz it, then tap it with a hammer a few times, apply heat, let soak a while, REPEAT!, then try the chisel again!

As for first starting it, remove the plugs and have fuel turned OFF, and let the engine crank for 5 second bursts, pause 5 seconds, repeat until you see the oil light flicker and go out. That will help ensure that you've primed the top end with oil before actually getting it to fire since you did a complete tear down. Replace plugs, caps, turn on fuel, set choke/enrichener and give it a try. Try not to rev the engine much over 4K rpm once you get it started.

There was a great post several weeks ago about breaking in and engine, the slow gentle way, and the fast way. There was a link in that thread, hopefully you saw and read it. Wish I had done the fast way when I rebuilt my topend in 2000. However I have to say that I had good pumping compression after the 500 mile break in, haven't checked it since, but will this weekend, see Dan Hodges thread. YMMV!
T.C.

[digitalsam]

Thanks all. I ad to tear into the bolt a good bit, and whacked it for about five minutes before it came loose. When it did, it came out like it was buttered.

Thanks for the startup tips, TC. I will take it slow.

The clutch lever is really hard to pull. Is that because it has just been rebuilt? Will it work itself in, should I recheck something? How can I tell if it is set correct?

[bikerphil]

If you put in new heavy duty springs, the clutch will feel stiffer than 30 yr. old springs. Might want to recheck the clutch cable routing, making sure there are no sharp bends, as this will make the lever difficult to operate.

[Ken Talbot]

Thanks all. I ad to tear into the bolt a good bit, and whacked it for about five minutes before it came loose.

Think about welding a nut on top of the stripped-out plug for future use. And while you're at it, be sure to put in a new crush washer under the bolt before you put it back on.

[latexeses]

Was the clutch cable stiff before your work? Check the routing. If it seemed stiff before it may need a bit of cable lube. Wd-40 or silicone. I used to lube cables on my old bike with a cable lube that was a graphite/volitile oil combination. When the "carrier" evaporated it left the graphite as lubrication.

If you use the graphite stuff be careful. If you don't, by the time you are through you will have the stuff in your ears. It's like pipe dope... Get a little on your hand and before you know it you have it on everything..

[TopCatGr58]

I'm pretty sure that we posted a MOD for this, you can get an automotive large cap bolt that will fit with a nylon washer, check the tech tips, mods!
T.C.

[digitalsam]

Not starting

OK, I fueled the bike up. (but) then I had a leaking petcock, so I had to fix that. Right now there is less than half a gallon in the tank. The starter works and gives the rrr... rrr... rrr... sound from the starter, but no popping noise, like the fuel is igniting. note: The fuel is new, fuel is in the lines and the choke is out all the way.

I need a few suggestions

1. Do I need more gas in the tank to get the fuel to flow?
2. Is it possible that I have the spark plug wires routed incorrectly (anyone have a diagram/pic)
3. Other advice?

[bikerphil]

I'd put in some more fuel, then turn the petcocks to the prime position. Then right away, start tapping all 4 bowls with a screwdriver handle to avoid a stuck float. If it still won't fire, put a rag under the carb bowl drains and crack 'em open making sure you have fuel in there. As for your ign. coils, the one with the orange wire should go to cyls 1+4, and the one with the grey wire should go to cyls 2+3.