Clean carbs,still no start

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Dalton,

First off, please EDIT your signature/profile to show WHERE you are, as well as what YEAR/MODEL your bike is for future assistance processes. You may be surprised to find someone close by that could provide some handson assistance!?

Secondly, you say you cleaned the carbs, but did you verify that the little jet down in the float bowl was clean and flowing? It's what supplies fuel to the enrichener/choke circuit, but if clogged, it can't flow and you get NO FUEL!!

You never answered whether you had done a compression test? It's not uncommon for the cam chain to skip teeth and damage valves from a PO not doing the cam chain tensioner, or doing it incorrectly! Also clearances can wear too close, keeping valves open or just not closing completely, leading to low compression.

With age, the intake boots can also develop leaks where they mate with the engine, might take them off while you have the carbs back off and clean contact surface, apply a gasket and sealant to help ensure no vacuum leaks occur there, as well as inspect to make sure that no external cracks go thru to the inside...even though they are double walled!
T.C.

[dbeardslee]

Dalton - the ballast resistor is on the left side of the frame, and it looks like a 1/2" X 2" metal box with two wires coming out of it. It's there to keep from burning up your TCI with the stock coils. Do not run it without it for long or you may wind up with a new problem.

On your use of the choke - with full choke do not apply any throttle when trying to start. Just pull it all the way out and hit the starter. If you give it gas immediately with full choke it will make it die. That being said, I doubt that's the problem.

[Dalton]

LMAO......and the tables turn....updates

Okay, here's what happened. after my last post my internet connection
has failed and I can't figure it out for the life of me. so now i'm at
the freaking library with wifi,,hehe....anyway... after my last post
I went out and tried to start the bike. It cranked right up!!!
Only thing was it imediately went to 8500 rpms without my hand
on the throttle!! I checked the trottlecable and its not snagged on anything
so now i'm a little confused, is it possible that the idle is makin it do that??
any advise is extremely helpful, I will be back at the library every night
after work until I get my internet fixed!!!!!! Thanx guys, and if anyone
lives in this area (Central New Jersey) Id love to talk on the phone also

[Dalton]

Okay, here's what happened. after my last post my internet connection
has failed and I can't figure it out for the life of me. so now i'm at
the freaking library with wifi,,hehe....anyway... after my last post
I went out and tried to start the bike. It cranked right up!!!
Only thing was it imediately went to 8500 rpms without my hand
on the throttle!! I checked the trottlecable and its not snagged on anything
so now i'm a little confused, is it possible that the idle is makin it do that??
any advise is extremely helpful, I will be back at the library every night
after work until I get my internet fixed!!!!!! Thanx guys, and if anyone
lives in this area (Central New Jersey) Id love to talk on the phone also

to answer a couple of outstanding questionns, I cleaned the jets out, they
look brand new. We did a compression test when i bought the bike it
was perfect

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Dalton,

Sorry to hear about your Internet!

As for the bike, that throttle cable is hung up somewhere, having it race to 8500 rpm isn't contributable to a poor vac synch!

There is a little cup/shoulder that the cable sleeve fits down into when it is routed to the carbs, if it's NOT down inside that shoulder/recess it'll be pulling the butterflies open quite a bit leading to a runaway rpm rev/idle!!

Reach in there, and pull the cable complete loose from the carb butterfly lever/actuating arm. Next view to make sure that the throttle lever on the carbs is actually closing so that the throttle stop is contacting the stop point. Then try starting the bike, and if it starts and doesn't race away to 8500, then you'll know it was the cable , reattach it ensuring that it doesn't hang up and that the throttle lever is in the same position as when the cable wasn't attached!
T.C.

[Dalton]

Definitely better!

Okay, I looked at the bracket that the throttle cable jacket snaps into, and
it was upside down, so i guess when i cleaned the carbs and reinstalled
them i just didnt pay attention. when i took it off and flipped it around
it definitely made a big difference!!! Now when i start the bike it revs
and stays at about 5000 rpms. when i pull on the throttle it actually
drops rpms! thats confusing......and it wont run in half choke or regular
mode, only full choke.....hhhmmmmm

[TopCatGr58]

Well,

Sounds like time to take the carbs off again and clean them again!

You apparently got the Enrichener jet and circuit open, so it flows plenty of fuel to start it and rev a 5K rpm...did you try turning down the large thumbscrew to lower the idle speed a bit?

But when you try to give it throttle it dies. Too much air, not enough fuel, pilot jet circuit not clean, main jet/nozzle/emulsion tube not truly clean, or even the vacuum slides not sliding, diaphragms with pinholes??

Have you tried to contact an Xsive in your area to help you???
T.C.

[Dalton]

Reply

Hey, first of all thanx T.C.,,, last night i tinkered with it some more, i
adjusted the mixture screws and the idle screws and it was doing MUCH
better, I actually got it to idle on half-choke at 2000 rpms... which is
the best ive seen so far. LOL I started gettin excited again!!!! How do
you recommend I go about trying to find someone in my area to helpout?
Im in central jersey.... and when I took the carbs apart I cleaned the jets
all really well. but maybe i missed something....Thanx T.C.

[TopCatGr58]

Cleaning the JETS alone isn't the whole job! You need to be sure to have sprayed and cleaned out the passages that the jets feed and flow thru, like the Pilot jet circuit that runs thru the carb, up to the pilot screws and out those 3 little holes in the upper forward portion of the carb throat. Welcome to Triple Clean hell!! BTW, did you pull the vacuum slides out and then the Main Jet NOZZLE up out thru the top of the carb to soak and clean??

As for finding folks, go to the MEMBER's LOUNGE and read the STICKY about Member search and such, you'll figure it out from there!

[Dalton]

Making Progress!!!

First of all. Thank all you guys I definitely couldnt have made it this far without you!!! I definitely cleaned everypart available inside the carbs when
I had them out, ive been playin around with the mixtures and idle and
now it idles good, just a little rough ya know? no more white smoke either
which is good. I let it idle for about five minutes today and tried to take
it for a little ride around the block but as soon as i put it in first it
died. Oh also there is a power problem, everytime I try to start it I have
to jump it off my truck.....alternator or battery.....so I let it stay hookedup
to my truck for 30 minutes and then unhooked it and got NOTHING from the
battery, which makes me believe that its the battery and not the alternator.
What do you think? could that be the problem when i tried to ride it??? Does
anybody have an easy way to test the alternator? Thanx again guys. Oh
and I tried to locate somebody to talk to on the memberfinder but the closest
guy is like 3 hours away, I would greatly appreciate a phone call from
somebody who lives in or near Central New Jersey or the shore....even
if you dont live close it would be good......my cell is 732-900-0397....I was
hoping to ride it this holiday weekend and still have High hopes...

[DGXSER]

NEw Battery

The electronics in these machines needs the battery to keep it running. It is not like a car where the battery stops supplying once the car is started. So, if you got no battery storage, you ill lose the juice and it will stall. This will show up more when you apply load. To test the alternator, put a VOM across the battery at idel and check for about 12 volts, then get the RPMS up about 3-4k and check for voltage should be up to about 14.5 or so.

It would help on the dying in first issue if you listed the model and year of bike you have. On the XJ, they have the neutral and kickstand sensors. So, if you try to put it in gear with the sidestand down, it will die. I believe they also will not start without it in Neutral.

[randy]

Dalton,

There are a couple of members in the central/south Jersey area, but I'll let them speak up. Simple test of the alternator is, while it's running, does the tach work? If so, the charging system is putting out something. Do you have a voltmeter? Check the voltage while running, at 4000 rpm you should see around 13.5-14 volts. You more than likely need a new battery, which is available over the counter at Walmart. You may have to charge it overnight before you install it, though, depends on which type you buy. Use a small trickle charger on it, DON'T charge the new battery from your truck. The charge rate on the truck will be too high for the small battery and you'll damage the battery.

[Dalton]

Thankyou Randy and Dgxsr

Yes the tach definitely works, I am going to borrow a buddys voltmeter
this weekend and see how much I'm getting. And I should also be able
to aford a new battery this weekend after payday.....Thanks alot guys
and I will definitely keep everyone posted on what happens...Dalton