Just bought an 82 xj1100... help!

[Bigfoot]

The "linked brakes" that Cbug is refering to means that when you pull the brake lever, it works the 2 discs on the front. Bob

Hand brake only works the right side front. Foot lever works left side front and rear.

Crash bars - here is a set that is on ebay now

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/79-YAMAHA-ELEVEN-SPECIAL-XS1100-CRASH-GUARDS-BARS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ65Q3a12Q7c66Q3a2Q7c39Q3a1Q7c72Q3a1205Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem41466be46bQQitemZ280354350187QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

They are listed for a 79 xs but should bolt right on. There are a couple of different ones listed but I prefer this type.

Welcome to the site.

[XJOK2PLAY]

thanks, guys...

I stand corrected... and learned something, too!
Bob

[bikerphil]

Compression test: Warm up the bike. Shut it off and pull all 4 plugs. Hook your compression guage to the 1st cylinder (14MM thread size), hold the throttle wide open and crank until the guage goes no higher. It should be at least 140. Repeat on other 3 cylinders. Remember, throttle wide open.

[fredintoon]

Compression test: Warm up the bike. Shut it off and pull all 4 plugs. Hook your compression guage to the 1st cylinder (14MM thread size), hold the throttle wide open and crank until the guage goes no higher. It should be at least 140. Repeat on other 3 cylinders. Remember, throttle wide open.

Better yet, do the compression test when you take the carbs off, you gotta do that to clean them anyway.
Let the engine crank over ten turns or more to get a proper reading.
It's more important that the numbers should be within 10% of each other than they should be high. 4 x 160 is perfect. 4 x 110 I'd still run the bike. 100 + 160 + 120 + 140 (an extreme case, I know) and I'd be worried.

[Mbarna]

alright.. got the seat, tank and lines disconnected... how can i get the plug wires off from the coil?

[bikerphil]

Oh, you're gonna love this....

http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/tech-tips/repairs/battery---electrical/91-new-wires-in-old-coils.html

[Mbarna]

oh jeez.... hahaahaha.

[TopCatGr58]

Mbarna,

Are your plug wires visibly cracked? Why are you wanting to replace them?
Yes, they can build up a little corrosion where they fit into the plug caps, but you can remove/unscrew the caps, clip off 1/4" or so from end until you see good clean copper wire, and fit caps back on. BUT before you do, get a multimeter/volt/ohm type and check the resistance between the paired bare plug leads, should be about 15k ohms. Check the plug caps, should be about 5Kohms, if much more, would be best to replace them. The bike ran, but you didn't know about spritzing water on all 4 pipes to see if all 4 were sizzling, or if 1 or more just dribbled off instead of steaming off!? Diagnostic tip! IF the wires are real bad, a simpler albeit slightly more expensive repair is to replace the coils with aftermarkets, see the tech tips for MikesXS replacement coils.

Also, since the bike ran, hopefully the EXPENSIVE only produced for 1 year TCI/Ignition box was working properly. It is more advanced than the XS's, has both Cent. Adv. and Vac. Adv. curves programmed into it, that's why there are no movable timing parts inside the left crank cover. The vacuum sensor is a little black box under the tank, says vac. boost, it sends signals to the TCI. Cylinders 1-4 and 2-3 are linked electrically, via pickup coils and high tension spark coils. Carbs 1-2 and 3-4 are linked via fuel! So...if you have cold non pipe sizzling cylinder or two, unless linked like electrical type, then most likely will be carbs.

Speaking of carbs, check out the parts for sale Forum, sticky thread, the YICS eliminator for carb tuning/balancing.

The neutral light turns on when the wire running down there is grounded, so IF the wire got burned/chaffed thru and the bare wire is resting on the frame, the light will not turn off!

Even if you get an evenly low compression test, because the bike has sat for a while, the rings can get stuck/gummed, the cylinders could have a little flash rust on them, etc.. Another cleaning trick is to put some MMO into the engine oil, start bike, run it just on centerstand, no high revs, no load, run for 5-10 minutes to get to operating temps, then drain. Even before this, put some down inside the spark plug holes, slowly turn engine over by hand a few times and let sit overnight, then do the above NO STRESS running, will help to free up stuck rings, and clean out old varnish, sludge, etc.!!!

T.C.

[Mbarna]

well, my dad was touching the plug wires while standing in a puddle (let's be honest), got shocked, and almost stalled the bike.. we figured the bike could use new plugs/wires... they look alright.. no cracks of any sort.. all 4 cylinders were firing fine.

[Mbarna]

by the way, thanks for all the tips guys! what's "mmo"?

[bikerphil]

MMO= Marvel Mystery Oil. You could use Seafoam also (engine treatment).

[Cobia]

Welcome Mbarna

As an XJ owner, who went through hell and high water trying to get my XJ to run smoothly, I highly recommend you install the YICS Eliminator. It will save you a ton of time and work in getting your carbs right.

[Mbarna]

the REAL question is... should i leave the eliminator in? or take it out after i'm done synching? what have you guys done? (i haven't ordered yet - i needed to spend just about all my money this week on getting to and from my internship in NYC) .

[DGXSER]

The great thing about the one they directed you to is that it can be left in place. I do not own an XJ, but most folks on here get the one made by Larry and leave it in place.

The YICS system was an emisions system thing that most if not all XJ owners I have met on here have indicated sucks big time at best. You will not hurt the performance by leaving it in place.

[trbig]

You'll HAVE to have something like this to be able to tune your carbs. Leaving it in, or taking it out is your choice, but if you take it out, your carbs will usually stay tuned for a bit longer. After you've had the bike a while and know how to work on it, you may choose to leave it in so you can tell earlier when you're developing a carb problem. I have my YICS ports "Permanently" (I say in quotes because I can reverse it if for some weird reason I wanted to) blocked so I can tell when there's getting to be a problem with a clogged jet or something. With the YICS operable, a lean or rich carb will "Borrow" from the others and make it hard to tell.


Tod