Is there interest in new locking tabs for left side covers?

[CatatonicBug]

I was just in the middle of explaining to my dad the problem many of us have with the broken left side cover locking tab. I realized that maybe, since the original plastic version is so brittle that it snaps off, maybe replacing it with new plastic isn't such a good idea. My dad taught me everything I know about precision machining, and runs his own company doing all sorts of precision machinework (all by hand, no CNC). I'm sending him the pictures that Ken posted a while back with measurements of the original, to see how difficult it would be to machine an aluminum version. Would there be any interest in purchasing a new locking tab that could be adhered to the location where the old one broke off? It doesn't seem like a very difficult part to make, and once the actual measurements are nailed down, he might be able to make a few more for relatively cheap. I haven't asked him about this yet, as I wanted to get a feel for the interest first. What do you all think??

[b.walker5]

I've been playing around with some carbon fibre and poxy resin for this for a while now but an alloy one sounds great.

[Ivan]

personally, I would go with some Dlerin or another machinable composit, since aluminum tends to wear easily.

I would be very interested if something comes from this.

[FANNING507]

I would have some interest. My JBWeld adhered to fiberglass drywall tape seems to be working so far, but don't know how long. Seems to be an issue in winter time when the plastic is cold.

[Fix]

Considering I JUST lost a left side cover to this gremlin, I'd say hell yes.

[Pat Kelly]

Both my XSs have the locking tab(s) intact........ so far. The part I am having a problem with is the other (right, non-locking) side. It is under stress every time I remove and install it as it slides in and out the grommet. The side cover is cracking just below the lower stud/pin.

But yes, a stronger alternative would be nice for the locking tab.

[thewiz]

there is some stuff called ...

Plastex. I used the molding bar supplied in the kit to cast a whole new tab from one that was in perfect condition and then Dremmeled,filed and sanded it til it fit correctly; then attached it with the same material. It is ABS so there is no problem with adhesion. Result was pretty awesome ... works perfect and solid as new. www.plastex.net. I highly recommend it.

Below is the 'stub' before I prepared before I attached the new tab.


I made the new material in white so the contrast could be seen

[Shappers]

My solution was to grind the old broken tab flat and drill a hole in its place. I then used JB weld to permanently attach a 6mm nut in the middle of the old lock piece. I now just use a 6mm bolt screwed from the outside of the cover.

It might not be lockable but you will need a 6mm allen key with you if you want to get in there!

[CatatonicBug]

Need a detailed drawing

I need someone's help on this. I am told this will be a relatively easy thing to create, but since I don't have one to measure, I need someone who has one to make a detailed drawing of a working one. If someone has one, and a set of calipers, I need a drawing, with actual measurements, so we can set it up in the mill. It can be a CAD thing bu that is definitely NOT required. Just something with all the measurements, so we know the actual sizes. The pictures I found with the ruler placed next to it just aren't detailed enough. Can someone help me on this??

[Ivan]

Send me your e-mail address and I will draw something out and snap a photo from my phone and email it to you in a few minutes.

My email is irtrail at gmail.com

[cywelchjr]

I would be very interested in one, since my tab is broken off. I would love to ditch the mini bungee cord that holds it on right now.

[SFSPECBIKER79]

Im interested

Post it here or pm me when you come up with something. I was just wondering how to fix mine it today.

[CatatonicBug]

Well, we have a basic computerized design drawing so far. I made some adjustments to the original drawing last night, so we'll see what comes from it. It will end up replacing all the raised surfaces on the side cover with a solid piece of aluminum. That will then be attached to the side cover via either adhesive, screws, or rivets.

[thewiz]

If you'd like, Bug ...

PM me with an address to send it to and I'll cast you one and clean it up for you to use as your model. I still have the mold. Pretty sure I still have enough stuff to make it too as there was some spillage on the Carolina move . No worry the stuff is reasonably priced. I need to reorder some black for fixing my fairing ASAP anyway so it might take a bit longer to get it to you. .

Not in any way meaning to discourage your efforts to machine a new tab from metal either, but having recently repaired a locking sidecover tab, I can visualize a couple of possible issues with an aluminum tab ... not all tabs break at the same point, so some finish fitting to the cover will be necessary and ABS is a bit friendlier to work, file and sand than metal; .... also, more importantly, I think that the bond between two ABS parts is inherently stronger since it is effectively 'seamless' and therefore, much more likely to last and hold up to the repeated 'tugging and pulling' R&Rs that a sidecover is subjected to. I believe the bond between two disimilar materials like aluminum and ABS, even though those two materials can be bonded, is not going to be as sturdy. Just my two cents

[CatatonicBug]

PM me with an address to send it to and I'll cast you one and clean it up for you to use as your model. I still have the mold. Pretty sure I still have enough stuff to make it too as there was some spillage on the Carolina move . No worry the stuff is reasonably priced. I need to reorder some black for fixing my fairing ASAP anyway so it might take a bit longer to get it to you. .

Not in any way meaning to discourage your efforts to machine a new tab from metal either, but having recently repaired a locking sidecover tab, I can visualize a couple of possible issues with an aluminum tab ... not all tabs break at the same point, so some finish fitting to the cover will be necessary and ABS is a bit friendlier to work, file and sand than metal; .... also, more importantly, I think that the bond between two ABS parts is inherently stronger since it is effectively 'seamless' and therefore, much more likely to last and hold up to the repeated 'tugging and pulling' R&Rs that a sidecover is subjected to. I believe the bond between two disimilar materials like aluminum and ABS, even though those two materials can be bonded, is not going to be as sturdy. Just my two cents

The idea is that you grind off whatever is left of the original latch hook, down to to the side cover itself. Then, mechanically attach the new metal hook (screws or rivets) from the outside of the cover. The option of using some kind of adhesive is always there too, but a solid metal hook is always going to be stronger than an ABS one, since ABS is what broke in the first place. Here is the final drawing. What do you think?