just a few questions

[BigDick]

I went for a short "prozac" ride (same effect, fewer drugs ) and noticed a couple things. My front suspension seems real sensitive to bumps in the road, almost like it's not damping the suspension. A little while back I put in progressive springs and added a tkat brace. 225cc of fork oil each leg. should I put in a couple pounds of air or a little more oil or is this normal? Second is a bit of an older problem. I used to have a fairing and bags on her, being young and dumb I stripped it all and now ride a naked bike. After doing this my headlight wouldn't work, I followed the wiring diagram and had everything hooked up correctly. A dip-spit of a mechanic worked on it for me and spliced the headlight wire into a keyed wire so I have a working headlight. Is the original problem the reserve lighting unit thingamajig? Second when I took off my "dash lights" (the ones inside the speedo and tach) were not lit up, I flipped my headlight from bright to low beam and they came on and then stayed on. Is that related? I have a huge bundle of wires now coming from the handlebars and gauges down to the harness under the tank, (about an extra foot or so) I plan on cutting that all out and using waterproof crimp connectors to shorten the harness. Thanks in advance everyone and sorry for the book.

[bikerphil]

BD, you shouldn't need any air if you're running progressive springs. Bleed the pressure down. Is the right rotor centered in the caliper mount for correct alignment? I assume you did use 10W fork oil? Whole front end could need aligning. Check the fork tubes for alignment with a piece of plate glass.

[oldyam80sg]

I looked at your signature line and am confused about your model.Do you have an SG like myself or what?Also if it is an SG i had adiode in the headlight turn to powder and the headlight would not work.Also thinking something is not right in the headlight bucket relating to the gauge lights.When the key is turned on the dash lights should not go on except when the bike is started then the headlight and dash lights should work.I know some people have the headlight go on as soon as the key is turned on but i prefer the way the system was designed to work.

[BigDick]

Phil I am running no air and 10 wt oil. I have a couple of straight edges (precision rulers) will these work in place of plate glass? When I did my work I put new fork seals in but didn't clean the fork innards when I had it all apart (yeah I'm a rocket scientist shoulda cleaned em then) could this be part of my problem?

Oldyam mine is the SG (special) I'm just a touch dyslexic, The headlight I am running is an aftermarket shiny chrome one, no wires in the bucket except for the 3 running to the bulb. Which I assume is part of why I have so much extra wiring hanging down. You can't see real well in this pic but the black cable looking lump under and above my tool bag is my wiring. It does show the headlight really well if that helps.

[oldyam80sg]

Ok no problem just curious that's all.Do you like the smaller headlight?Also are you running turn signals? again just curious.Like the shiny chrome.If the wires are hanging down and you can cut them so they don't hang in the breeze-go for it!

[BigDick]

It's a great light (halogen bulb) since this pic I have installed turn signals and also cute little driving lights off of my highway pegs on the insides of the case guards/crash bars. It's a great fit but I haven't wired them in yet. I'm waiting to get the new spade block wired in to route them through that. Look for pictures in a thread maybe tomorrow afternoon. Depends on how motivated I get.

[bikerphil]

I have a couple of straight edges (precision rulers) will these work in place of plate glass? When I did my work I put new fork seals in but didn't clean the fork innards when I had it all apart (yeah I'm a rocket scientist shoulda cleaned em then) could this be part of my problem?

No, you need an absolutely flat glass or metal plate about 6"X10" to lay across the fork tubes to see if they are exactly paralell. Yep, you shoulda probably cleaned them. All the oil won't come out of them when you just drain 'em, so the level could possibly be high or uneven also. You can check for even level by lifting the front of the bike, removing the caps and springs, lifting and blocking up the front wheel so the forks are fully compressed. Then, take a tape measure and measure from the oil level to the top of the tube. Remember, the less oil, the softer the suspension will be due to the size of the air pocket. And, the Progressive springs are a bit firmer than the stock units so that will normally roughen the ride slightly. Here's an alternative fork alignment method that I use...

FORK ALIGNMENT

You need
a center stand or engine jack to do this. You must be able to keep your front
wheel in the air with the bike immobile.

Put the bike on its center stand. Do whatever is necessary to get the front
wheel in the air ½" is fine
Remove the fork caps so that your springs are loose and your front end moves
up and down freely
Loosen the front axle, the fender bolts, and all the triple clamp bolts. If
you have a fork brace, loosen that too
Lift the front wheel, sliding it up the fork tubes until you hit the
bottoming stops inside the forks. Use a tie-down to hold the wheel up in this
position, with the forks bottomed out.
Now, with the forks bottomed out, the fork sliders are inside the fork
lowers as much as they ever will be, and the forks are lined up as perfectly as
they can be. Now is the time to tighten everything, the triple clamp bolts
first, then the axle, then the fender bolts. If you have a fork brace, tighten
that last
Release the front wheel so that the forks extend fully, topping out. Replace
the fork caps.
That's it, that's as good a front end alignment as you can get.

HTH

[BigDick]

Thanks a bunch phil, I'll do the alignment process tomorrow. I really had no clue, I assumed the axle and fender would pull everything straight. I knew from the instruction sheet that came with the springs that the measurement of the oil level (ie with tape measure) is better than volume but what is spec for my bike? couldn't find that anywhere (but didn't ask ) You get one vote from me that your alignment process should be put into the tech tips.

[bikerphil]

I knew from the instruction sheet that came with the springs that the measurement of the oil level (ie with tape measure) is better than volume but what is spec for my bike?

That's hard to say, all depends if you want tight handling or plush feel, or both . I'm running my Special right now at 9" from top of tube, but I may lower the level a bit more, looking to get a bit more plush feel. There are so many combinations to factor (ie: oil level, oil weight, spring preload, damping hole modification, etc.) it'll drive you crazy. But don't forget, these are dinosaur forks and there's only so much you can do with them. Alignment is key though.

[tinman905]

I went for a short "prozac" ride (same effect, fewer drugs ) and noticed a couple things. My front suspension seems real sensitive to bumps in the road, almost like it's not damping the suspension. A little while back I put in progressive springs and added a tkat brace. 225cc of fork oil each leg. should I put in a couple pounds of air or a little more oil or is this normal? Second is a bit of an older problem. I used to have a fairing and bags on her, being young and dumb I stripped it all and now ride a naked bike. After doing this my headlight wouldn't work, I followed the wiring diagram and had everything hooked up correctly. A dip-spit of a mechanic worked on it for me and spliced the headlight wire into a keyed wire so I have a working headlight. Is the original problem the reserve lighting unit thingamajig? Second when I took off my "dash lights" (the ones inside the speedo and tach) were not lit up, I flipped my headlight from bright to low beam and they came on and then stayed on. Is that related? I have a huge bundle of wires now coming from the handlebars and gauges down to the harness under the tank, (about an extra foot or so) I plan on cutting that all out and using waterproof crimp connectors to shorten the harness. Thanks in advance everyone and sorry for the book.

In my manual it states 210cc or 7.1 oz of 10w fork oil. I noticed you have 225cc of fork oil ?

[BigDick]

hey tinman in my clymers it calls for " a. Regular fork-7.12 oz. (212cc) b. Air/oil-7.61 oz. (225cc)" in the Yamaha owner's manual it does call for the 7.1 oz. or 210 cc of oil. Maybe there's a difference in oils now and then?

[tinman905]

hey tinman in my clymers it calls for " a. Regular fork-7.12 oz. (212cc) b. Air/oil-7.61 oz. (225cc)" in the Yamaha owner's manual it does call for the 7.1 oz. or 210 cc of oil. Maybe there's a difference in oils now and then?

It states 210cc in the supplementary addition in the back of my Yamaha manual for 80G , SG and 225 for the SF.

[BigDick]

Too much oil would make it more "sensitive" to the bumps in the road right? less damping effect, so you'd notice more right? That or if everything is gummed up? When I had it apart to do my fork seals I didn't clean anything but nothing was obviously full of crud.

[bikerphil]

[QUOTE=BigDick;210833] Too much oil would make it more "sensitive" to the bumps in the road right? QUOTE]

Too much oil would make the air chamber smaller, causing it to compress faster to a higher pressure. Similar to having too much air in your air fork, resulting in a harsher feel.

[tinman905]

It states 210cc in the supplementary addition in the back of my Yamaha manual for 80G , SG and 225 for the SF.

Sorry that was 210cc for the SG not the G model . G model in the supplementary shows 241cc for the G model.