Ignition switch

[CatatonicBug]

Really? Ever turn the key to the park position? Don't you have the words 'LOCK' and 'PARK' written on your ignition switch? Or maybe the words have worn off. Check it out, turn your bars full left, key off, push key in, you'll feel the spring, and turn key full left (two clicks). Parking lights should come on (front turns and rear running light) and steering should be locked. One click clockwise and the parking lights should turn off and steering still locked. One more click right is OFF, steering unlocked.

Nope. Only 2 positions, and the writing is almost illegible. ON, and OFF. If I put the key in, nothing happens. If I turn it to the right (it will only go one click) the tail light and dash lights light up, and the turn signals work. Once i push the Start button, the engine turns over, and the headlight turns on. IF I turn the key one click to the left (back to where it started), the whole bike shuts down completely. No Lock or Park on mine.

[FANNING507]

I have the same bike. You can depress the locking mechanism and turn to the left (my lock depresses about 1/4 inch into the lock), after turning the handle bars to the left, to lock them. This will lock the bars and leave the tail light on.

[CatatonicBug]

Hmmm... I just went out and tried that. It DOES depress, when it's in the OFF position, but it won't turn either direction, even when I turn the bars full lock left.

[DiverRay]

The mechanism in you lock is probably frozen. They WILL lock in the full left or full right position. You can only use the parking light to drain the battery IF the forks are locked.

[rpgoerlich]

Turn Bars to Full Left or Right. Push Key in, Release then Turn Left.

If you try and push/turn at the same time it wont turn...

[CatatonicBug]

Well, whatta ya know?! I added a little WD40, and played with it for a while, and it actually TURNED! After a little examining, I realized why I had never been able to make it work before. I had to pull OUT just a tiny bit (less than 1/2mm) to make the key engage. I have to do the same thing with the gas cap too! I tend to believe that the key I have (made by a local dealer) is just not as precision as it could be. Thanks guys!!

[adam79]

Ha! The connector was melted and corroded on the inside! I had to break it apart, wire brush the individual metal connectors, wrap them in electrical tape, and plug them back into the other unmelted half of the plastic connector. Runs great now. Im curious now why that specific connector was all fubar while all the other connectors on the bike are fine. Thank you everybody for your help.

[DiverRay]

Runs great now. Im curious now why that specific connector was all fubar while all the other connectors on the bike are fine.

The reason is simple. The Brown wire carries ALL the amps the bike puts out through the switch. As the connections get old and start to corrode, the resistance goes up, and causes heat. Repeat this a few hundred times, and things heat up quickly. Life expectancy from new was about 15 years for the "oldest" machine. They are over 30 years old and still goin, but DO need a few things looked at now and then.