Ignition switch

[adam79]

Everything was running fine as usual. Then, last week I came home from school on my bike, pulled into the garage and turned the key to off, and took it out...except the power didn't turn off. The circuit stays complete and the lights/power stay on. The switch wasn't perfect, for a while now you could pull the key out when it was in the on position, but this problem is new. It is very annoying because I have to take the seat off and connect/disconnect the N battery cable every time I use the bike, which is multiple times every day. What does this sound like? Can I take the switch out and clean it up perhaps? Do I have to get a new switch? How do I get it out? Is this even my problem? Just in case it matters, the kill switch works just fine.

[oseaghdha]

Yes you can remove and disassemble it to clean it up.
It may be a bit of a challenge to get it out, but that's probably a good thing.

[adam79]

how do I get it out?

[randy]

The switch is probably broken inside, the keylock has a pin on it that fits into a plastic slot in the switch wafer, the plastic is probably sheared.

OR, your connector inside the headlight bucket has melted and the wires are making their own connections! DAMHIK!

[CatatonicBug]

how do I get it out?

Mine had two bolts in the top of the assembly, and after removing the headlight bucket, it dropped out the bottom, IIRC. Not too horribly difficult. I had to take my switch to the dealer to have them make me a key when I first got the bike. It didn't come with a key... Thankfully, the sticker on the bottom was just barely legible, and he was able to use the code to make the key, and just test it in the switch. If he had been required to use the switch to make the key, it would have cost a LOT more.

[adam79]

The switch is probably broken inside, the keylock has a pin on it that fits into a plastic slot in the switch wafer, the plastic is probably sheared.

OR, your connector inside the headlight bucket has melted and the wires are making their own connections! DAMHIK!

So, if the plastic is sheared, is it time to replace the switch? Any idea how much they cost?

[randy]

Last time I bought one, 30-40 bucks

[adam79]

I just looked. $138

[DiverRay]

Adam,
Take the switch OFF BEFORE you try to decide anything. It COULD be the connectors and wires going to the switch. As Catatonic said, pull the headlamp, pull ONE hold down bolt for the housing, and swing it out of the way. you can then use a 10mm socket to reach up under the switch assembly and pull it out. You SHOULD be able to tell if the battery wire has over heated by the melted plastic on the 3 prong connector. When I pulled my switch, I put in a little heavier wire and soldered it on to the bottom plastic part of the switch. I then cleaned the contacts by sanding down the side with the copper contacts on a flat surface with crocus cloth. Use dielectric grease on the parts after to keep them from corroding again.
Geezer, one of the members in Oregon, has the connectors and crimp tool that works VERY well for replacing the "bad" ones on our bikes.

[randy]

I'm on my blackberry it looks like you wrote 138 dollars?? Is that NOS? You can get aftermarket for WAY less

[MTaft]

There might be some Different Yamaha models, like the 850, 750, or 650, of the same vintage which use the same switch? I think as long as they have the fork lock on them they're the same. I'm not 100% on this, but it's worth looking into. It may make finding one on ebay much easier, they sold a ton of 650 specials when they came out. If anyone know where to get a deal on a n.o.s switch I'm interested as well.

[adam79]

I just looked on Ebay, and I found some from $20 to $30. Im going to pull the switch out when I get home and check it out first.

[CatatonicBug]

I think as long as they have the fork lock on them they're the same.

Fork lock?? I ain't got no fork lock! Just ON and OFF. And I'm pretty certain mine is the original from 30 years ago.

[randy]

Really? Ever turn the key to the park position? Don't you have the words 'LOCK' and 'PARK' written on your ignition switch? Or maybe the words have worn off. Check it out, turn your bars full left, key off, push key in, you'll feel the spring, and turn key full left (two clicks). Parking lights should come on (front turns and rear running light) and steering should be locked. One click clockwise and the parking lights should turn off and steering still locked. One more click right is OFF, steering unlocked.

[FANNING507]

There was a really good thread with pictures on removal of the ignition lock, the parts inside, and how to reassemble. I would go there first. Good Luck!