Just how hard is replacing steering head bearings?

[BossMaverick]

I keep going back and forth about replacing the head bearings myself or having a mechanic do it. I'm most nervous about not being able to get the lower bearing off and the new one on.

On a scale of 1-10, how challenging is changing the steering head bearings?

Also, how much time does it take on average for a first timer? I have about 4 hours tonight, is it possible to do it in that time?

I'm figuring an hour each to remove and replace the head assembly, but I just don't know about removing the lower bearing and race. All I know is that I'm anxious to get the new bearings in so I can fix my over sensitive steering/balance. I just put on new tires and progressive springs and I can't wait to see how great it will be.

Thanks!

[randy]

You're right about the lower bearing. it can be difficult. If you have a dremel tool, you can cut it as deep as you dare without cutting into the stem and then it will snap with a chisel/hammer blow.

Another tip to speed up the race installation: put the new races in the freezer before you start working. By the time you're ready to install them, they'll be froze/shrunk. Put 'em in while frozen and they'll slip in easy.

Save all of your worn parts and use them as battering rams to install the new parts.

[Hawkins]

I just went through removing them for the 1st time. I'm waiting on a new stem now so can't comment on reinstallation on that lower bearing, but here's what I can share with you so far. Hope it helps. I read a bunch of threads on the subject 1st, then got at it. If I had a welder, I would have used that as suggested in several posts.

1) Removal upper race - I was able to able to catch the edge of that one with a long tapered punch from below. I did cut it some 1st, then used the punch. Probably could have just used the punch.

2) Removal lower race - I just used the punch and managed to get out fairly easy.

3) Lower bearing removal - I used wire cutters to cut off the roller cage, leaving just the inner race. I cut it with the dremel, then attahed it an inside corner on my bench using a woodcrew through a piece of wood and the fork hole. The stem was pointing down, so I could use the punch on the upper lip of the inner race and tap it off. Easier if you had a long bearing puller that could catch that upper lip.

4)Upper race install - froze it as suggested, also put a hairdryer on the steering tube for a while, then used an aluminum bearing driver to tap it in. No problems at all.

5) Lower race install - same as upper

6) Lower bearing install - waiting on that one, although I geared up for it by finishing the cut through the old inner race, and getting a piece of pipe with an ID slightly bigger than the stem OD. I plan to freeze the stem, preheat the bearing slightly, then put on the bearing, the inverted old inner race, and tap it down with the pipe. The old race should be easy to remove after.

Check the condition of your stem. Mine had what looks like a corroded crack starting on it. I decided to replace it.

Hope that helps.

[BossMaverick]

Well I'm going for it now. I'll report back with how it goes.

Thanks!

[TopCatGr58]

All I know is that I'm anxious to get the new bearings in so I can fix my over sensitive steering/balance. I just put on new tires and progressive springs and I can't wait to see how great it will be.
Thanks!

Hey Boss,

Well, I wish you hadn't limited yourself with regards to time and discussing here!

Sounds like you have not actually taken it apart to inspect it, but just assumed that they were bad?

When the bearings and grease get dried and hardened, or the tension for the steering neck is set too tight, the bike will seem like it won't hold a line, and seems to want to wander causing you to feel like you have to oversteer to control it!

Many times, it's just a matter of taking the steering components apart from the neck, removing the bearings, and cleaning and regreasing them, the races, and putting it back together with the proper tension. Ofc you would want/need to inspect the races at that time, looking for lines or dimples in the races. But if they are smooth, then the bearings are not worn, and they just needed cleaning and repacking and proper tensioning!?

Well, I hope your removal and installation of the new parts goes well anyways!
T.C.

Here's a thread showing a photo of WORN head bearings...notched actually!!

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13027

[BossMaverick]

I ran into a case of previous owner and/or previous mechanic revenge Everything was going smoothly taking it apart (only took 45 minutes). Turns out someone previously tried to do the job and probably gave up or didn't have a clue. The bottom bearing didn't have any grease (it was very clean like someone degreased it but didn't repack it) and the stem had a little smear of fresh looking grease. The bottom race was definately shot (notched just like TopCat's link). After trying several differnet techniques of pulling the old bottom bearing off the stem, I resorted to the dremel method. I had access to a press to install the new bearing so that part was very easy.

And than I ran into the worst case of previous owner revenge on this bike to date when I tried to remove the lower race. I think whoever was in there last didn't have a decent punch and rounded the edge of the race at the rear removal slot. I tried about 4 different punches and other sharp edged tools that I have but they all slipped off (I could pound no problem on the race in the front slot). I ran out of time tonight before I could get the race out. After work tomorrow I will carefully enlarge the removal slot with a dremel and try a punch again.

TopCat: Your right, I was assuming I would need new bearings/races (I have had unusually bad luck with bearings on my cars). I felt the bearing kit was only $40 and with the age of the bike and not knowing the history I might as well replace them if I'm taking the time to take it apart. I wanted to do the job only once and be done with it. Plus I like the comfort feeling of having new ones .

[bikerphil]

I tried about 4 different punches and other sharp edged tools that I have but they all slipped off

One trick I've learned for removing those races is to put a deep well socket that will fit over your drift with an extension on the end. This will let you pry the drift forcing the end to stay in that little indent while hammering. I've also bent drifts on a slight curve to give a better angle. HTH

[John]

Now that you have everything apart, do yourself a favor and cut some new notches in the land for the lower race. If the bearings are the original,and have never been changed, then there will be no notch for the lower race.

[b.walker5]

Tools I use..



With the exception of a ball pein hammer and a short length of 1/2" rod with an undercut hook ground in one end, which I can't find at the moment, these are the only tools I've ever used for bearing removal from shaft's and tubes. I have a small homemade press for fitting and use the freezer and oven technique to shrink or expand as needed.



Rough drawing of the drift that is missing...

[BossMaverick]

I got it done it the bearings after work. Ended up bashing my thumb nail while removing the races but almost jumped for joy when the races started moving. I could only take it for a 5 mile test ride after I got done, but all I can say is

WOW!!!!

It went from being a lumbering twitchy beast to AWESOME. No more following groves in the road, no more twitchyness, and no more unenjoyable rides. What surprised me the most is how awesome cornering is now. Before I had to majorly slow for curves and fight my way through them. I just attributed this to the XS design in general from the old articles. I would have never felt comfortable enough to scrap the corners. Now I actually like cornering the Beast. I think that once my new tires are broken in and I get the feel of the "new" Beast I will be finally able to see what scraps in corners.

I'm just so happy on the way it is now. I used to love to go riding all the time but lately I wasn't enjoying it at all. It was to the point that I'd rather spend time fixing it than riding it (probably played a part in deciding to do the bearings myself). I'm thrilled to have the feeling of wanting to ride and loving to ride again.

Thanks for everyone's help on this site. There is no way I would have thought I could have ever done head bearings if it wasn't for the info here.

Thanks again!

[b.walker5]

Excellent, glad you got it worked out. One last piece of advice..If you havent already got one, GET A FORK BRACE. Flexing forks can be a major problem for a big heavy beast like ours and a brace will eliminate that and improve the feel no end.