My solution to the crappy pods

[crazy steve]

My concern with this mod is just the use of electrical tape for securing them to the rubber. Fuel can leak out into the air filter, and would make a mess of the tape/glue, etc.!

I would think/suggest the use of a fuel resistant sealant, rtv, epoxy, rubber contact cement? of some sort to secure them to the rubber mounts vs. the tape.

T.C.

That's the right concern... Any motorcycle carb will have fuel coming out of it because of reversion, so that tape won't last long and will give you a gummy mess. Offhand, I can't think of any adhesive that would be fuel-proof in the short run, much less long term. Mechanical attachment is the right choice here...

[CoastRider]

pods vs. air box

Greetings all,

I’m new to the XS Eleven world having just picked up one that’s been sitting for about 10 years with gas or should I say shellac in the tank and carbs. I’ve removed the cards and am getting ready to rebuild them. I have new carb holders on or order. My question is, should I buy the pods and use the above modification or put the standard air box back on?

Thanks,

Jason

[dbeardslee]

You might want to see what kind of shape your jets are in. If you go to pods you're going to need to rejet to really notice the improvement. Exhaust is going to have a bearing on that too, and you really need to take it all in to consideration to get the best grunt out of it. If it was me I think I'd get it running first and go from there.

[DGXSER]

Yep, the POD filters can change what jetting is needed. Get the bike running in stock setup (or as you got it anyway). Then when you change something you will know the change in how it runs was from your change.

[CoastRider]

Thanks for the info. I'll stick to the stock air box for now.



Jason

[fredintoon]

I'm new to the XS Eleven world having just picked up one that’s been sitting for about 10 years with gas or should I say shellac in the tank and carbs. I’ve removed the carbs and am getting ready to rebuild them. I have new carb holders on order. My question is, should I buy the pods and use the above modification or put the standard air box back on?

Hi Jason,
you didn't say clean the gas tank but I bet you did, eh?
Thing is, like everybody else, you'll have those carbs off, recleaned and on again several times before they are clean enough for the bike to run right.
And most folks find the carbs are a right swine to R&R with the stock airbox in place.
When I ran out of cusswords and bandaids I replaced my airbox with oval pods from MikesXS (they got XS stamped on them, too!)
They don't block off the peripheral intakes and don't seem to need re-jetting.
They are also magic; ever since they've been on the bike the carbs haven't needed cleaning.

[TomRodgers]

im just curious as to the significance or requirement, if any for the beer bottle cap in this pic????



FWIW...there would probalbly be at least a dozen or so of them close to my work area!!!

[dbeardslee]

It's pretty much critical that it be removed - otherwise it's pretty thirsty work .

[CoastRider]

Hi Jason,
you didn't say clean the gas tank but I bet you did, eh?
Thing is, like everybody else, you'll have those carbs off, recleaned and on again several times before they are clean enough for the bike to run right.
And most folks find the carbs are a right swine to R&R with the stock airbox in place.
When I ran out of cusswords and bandaids I replaced my airbox with oval pods from MikesXS (they got XS stamped on them, too!)
They don't block off the peripheral intakes and don't seem to need re-jetting.
They are also magic; ever since they've been on the bike the carbs haven't needed cleaning.

I have the carbs off and the air box off as well. I bought rebuild kits for the carbs(standard jets) and 4 gallons of carb/parts cleaner to run in my solvent tank. As soon as the rebuild kits get here I'll start on them. I haven't cleaned the gas tank yet but have been reading the posts that talk about some different methods. It was painted before sitting for so long and I'd kinda like not to mess it up So any other tibits of info on tank cleaning would be great. No onto the brake master cylinders. Front and back wont release.

Again thanks for the info

Jason

[dbeardslee]

No onto the brake master cylinders. Front and back wont release.

Time to clean the spooge holes.

[fredintoon]

I haven't cleaned the gas tank yet but have been reading the posts that talk about some different methods. It was painted before sitting for so long and I'd kinda like not to mess it up So any other tibits of info on tank cleaning would be great. No onto the brake master cylinders. Front and back wont release. - - - Jason

Hi Jason,
alas, the better the cleaning solvent is at dissolving the gas varnish from the tank's inside, the better it rips the paint off the tank's outside.
All you can do is be careful.
The search button and the tech sections will tell you all that's needful about unjamming the brakes.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Jason,

I hope you have also read that you do NOT want to soak the entire carb bodies in any caustic carb cleaner, it can eat the throttle shaft butterfly seals! Cleaners like something "green", non petroleum based ones are okay/safe for the seals, but you don't want a high ALKALINE level, it can eat the ALUMINUM..pitting it and such! If you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner, that works quite well also!

T.C.

[CoastRider]

I haven't received the carb rebuild kit yet and haven't soaked any parts yet. I did use PB Blaster to loosen up some of the body screws. I'll make sure I don't put the carb bodies in the tank.

I read the post on the spooge holes and will clean them as soon as I get a chance.

Thanks!
Jason

[dbeardslee]

Might want to make a trip to Harbor Freight and pick up a power bleeder too. Cleaning the spooge holes is pretty easy, but they can be a fargin bastage (Roman Moroni, circa 1984) to bleed.

[CoastRider]

Thanks heading to Harbor Freight now