Removed clutch cover

[Thee_oddball]

patience has returned...some what

i removed the side cover today hoping to unfreeze the clutch, A large washer fell out as i was removing the cover (ill assume this is normal) upon examination of the clutch I found some...oddity's please see pic and tell me what this is...it looks like heat damage and then in the center there is wear from what seems was the washer not sitting correctly



the steel balls that have been talked about were there and not out of place as i had hoped



I inside of the case was surprisingly clean, i was going to remove the clutch but i have never done this so i will go through the manually first but i wanted toget some input from you guys aswell


thnx for any help


Ric

[Thee_oddball]

UPDATE:
after looking at the manual I found that the washer is called the "thrust plate #2" according to the exploded view from the manual, Part A (thrust plate #2) does not,look as though it was between B (clutch push piece) and C (push screw) which is where im pretty sure it fell out from, it looks like it is between the clutch boss and the primary drive gear...so now im confused.

thnx for any help

[DGXSER]

Looking at that diagram, the thrust plate no 2 or washer you found, should be between the clutch outer shell (yeah I know that is nto the right term for it but do not see it on his diagram) and the inner shell, with the grooves for the plates and friction disc to line up on, which is then held on with a spring washer, a locking plate, and a nut that gets torqued to 51 ft-lbs. There is NO WAY that thing should be floating around in the pan!!

[CatatonicBug]

I'm taking a stab in the dark here, but that washer may be related to the oil pump idle gear. The snap ring that holds in on tends to let go. I think there is supposed to be a washer between the snap ring and the idle gear itself. It may have fallen off.

[Thee_oddball]

thnx guys , this is where the washer was sitting (or fell out of )

[CatatonicBug]

There is no washer that is supposed to go there... I wonder if the PO re-assembled it and did not put it in correctly, and ened up with an "extra part" and just guessed were it might fit. I would suggest removing the clutch basket (really easy) and put it back in the right place.

[Thee_oddball]

There is no washer that is supposed to go there... I wonder if the PO re-assembled it and did not put it in correctly, and ened up with an "extra part" and just guessed were it might fit. I would suggest removing the clutch basket (really easy) and put it back in the right place.

I was thinking the same thing...there is no way that could have "fallen " out of its home...that might be why he said the clutch was " a little stiff" . Have you removed the basket without the "clutch holding tool" per the manual? if not where might i get this tool?

thnx again for your help

[CatatonicBug]

Definitely. No need for any special tool, except the large socket to fit the nut that is held in by the locking washer (just below the red letter "B" in the diagram). I think I used a 1 1/8" socket on an impact wrench. Once that nut is removed, just go around and loosen the spring bolts slowly (one turn at a time or so) until the whole thing is loose and you can finish removing the bolts with your fingers. Take the whole basket off as a unit. It should just slide off the center post.

[DGXSER]

Ummm...I think Catatonic had a case of dislexic (spelling) clutch removal there. From where you are, the next step is to remove the star plate by the 6 bolts. Loosen all of them a little at a time, kind of like torquing down a head. The clutch nut and locking tab live underneath the star plate.

Look in the tech tips at the 2nd gear dremmel fix thread. (yes I kow you are not doing that repair) There are step by step instructions in that tip on removing the clutch basket. There is also a great warning on reinstalling that star plate, I think there is another tech tip on that part. It is not hard to do, but care must be taken to keep that plate centered and lined up with the shafts that come through the center of the springs. When you get it apart, look close and you will see how the star plate aligns with the shafts.

Also, while you have it that far apart, it is a great idea to replace the springs and inspect the friction plates and steel plates. It sucks to know you had it that far apart and then realize 1500 miles later, you need new springs (DAMHIKIJK).

[bikerphil]

Have you removed the basket without the "clutch holding tool" per the manual?

You won't need that special tool unless the motor is sitting on your bench. When breaking the clutch nut loose, put the bike in gear and apply the rear brake. This'll keep the clutch basket from spinning. An impact gun may work also.

[CatatonicBug]

Ummm...I think Catatonic had a case of dislexic (spelling) clutch removal there.

Oops... You're right I had it a bit backward. I do like the impact wrench option rather than puting it in gear though. I tried the manual way, and the rear wheel just turned, and the bike tried to roll off the sidestand on me.

[DGXSER]

In the same tech tip on the dremmel fix, it describes putting a piece of wood in the rear wheel to stop it from turning instead of the brake.

I have used the rear brake and a cheater bar (namely a piece of stainles steel pipe) over the handle of my 1/2" drive ratchet with no problems what so ever. I knealed on the rear brake lever while using both hands to turn the nut. IIRC Biker Phil was the one who advised me on that technique as well! He is a very smart guy!

And if you have one, use the centerstand when working on the bike. It puts the rear wheel off the ground so it will not move even if your rear brake does not hold. Pulling it off with an impact is easy enough, but you have to put it back on somehow.

[CatatonicBug]

I tried that whole wood thing, but, for the life of me, I couldn't figure out a decent place to slide a piece of wood al the way through the frame AND the wheel. I don't have a centerstand, so I do all my work on the sidestand. For the clutch sidecover, it's actually better that way, because you don't have to drain the oil, since the oil then drops below the level of that cover's seams.

I just used the impact to put it back on too. Of course, I double-checked it with a torque wrench, but at 51 ft-lbs, you're really just looking for "as tight as it can possibly get" anyway.

[Thee_oddball]

THANK YOU SO MUCH GENTS!! I will document my progress with pics to help out the next person, i hate doing the work but i love the learning

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Oddball,

It's kinda late, but if you'll look in the MODS section, the extra steel plate tech tip, you'll see some better photos on the clutch removal and reinstallation process, including info on those washers. Also, the washers are 2 different sizes, one inside the clutch basket, one behind the basket next to the engine, you want the smaller diameter one for the one behind the basket, otherwise it can block the oil flow thru that bearing....ask Tod/Trbig!
T.C.