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New here , just snagged a 1980 xs1100

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  • #16
    ok , i finally got it on , it would be too complicated to explain , but on a good note it turns out that filter is a k&n . it's 12:19 am so i can't fire it up and see how it does , but i'll try tomorrow and post my findings .

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    • #17
      nice find...and you suk! I see a chopper and whats looks tobe a crotchrocket frame in the background
      1982 XJ1100J MAX ,25.000 miles

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      • #18
        yeah , thats my triumph chopper and my friends rz500 2 stroke v4 that he's building into a sportbike , there's a bunch of bikes here . today i put on new gas lines and fired it up , once it was warm i tried turning off the choke , it wouldn't idle so i'm going to have to go back thru the carbs (must have missed something on the pilots ) it would on the other hand rev up like it should and WOW this thing sounds mean with that kerker pipe . the brakes need some attention but that didn't stop me from taking a quick run up the street . this thing has some grunt . i'll probably pull the carbs later and try again .
        Last edited by TDodge7; 05-10-2009, 12:28 PM.

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        • #19
          filters

          Go to MikesXS.com to get decent quality pod filters. Throw the original thing over left shoulder. Much easier to work on.

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          • #20
            well i rebuilt the carbs again and EDIT: nevermind , engines tend not to run so well when you forget to plug on the vac lines .



            it seems to run pretty well right now with the air box off . once i get it on it should run like it's supposed to . it even idles now .

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            • #21
              Dont forget to sync the carbs and adjust the idle mixtures.Then you will feel the power.
              80 SG XS1100
              14 Victory Cross Country

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              • #22
                ehhhh , spoke too soon . it runs BETTER but not like it should . it kind of idles , when it feels like it . it doesn't like revving up right off of idle , doesn't seem to have any low end power , i have to blip the throttle a few times and slip the clutch to get it to move . now i've been thru the carbs twice , and this time i made sure all passageways were clear and i even removed and cleaned the emulsion tubes . i didn't seperate the carbs so the synch shouldn't have changed . i don't know if i just have the idle down too much (tho i didn't mess with the idle at all before now and the po said that everything is the way it was left when it last ran , so i probably shouldn't have had to up the idle anyway) sometimes it'll idle fine , and then when you rev it it comes back to idle but then slows and stalls .


                tarzan , this is a 1980 , i don't think i have anything adjustable on these aside from float height , everything is still capped .
                Last edited by TDodge7; 05-11-2009, 01:33 PM.

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                • #23
                  Hey TD...

                  Went through many of the same things you're describing myself. And while I'm no GURU... I'll offer this to try... Best help to get started would be a Clymer's or a Yamaha guide... float level settings are pretty critical on these things, proper synching, cleaning, and adjusting are as well. Even after all that, (with experienced help) mine still acted up every once in a while. I'd try to take off, rev it up... let out the clutch, and she'd just stall. Happened in a intersection in town once... major drag... we re-adjusted the air mixture screws a little, and turned the idle up from 950 to 1200 rpm. Now she glides.
                  Could be something else, but that's what worked for me... coupled with patience... and getting used to launching a fully dressed bike.
                  Hang in there, and before long she'll make ya proud you got her.
                  Regards,
                  Bob
                  '82 XJ1100J Maxim (has been sold.)

                  '79 F "Time Machine"... oh yeah, Baby.... (Sold back to Maximan)

                  2011 Kaw Concours 14 ABS

                  In the warden's words from Cool Hand Luke;
                  "What we have here is a failure to communicate."

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                  • #24
                    yeah , i'm sure it's just something stupid , but i'm not sure what that is . the settings on the carbs are all what they were when the previous owner stopped riding it . so the sync and idle and idle mixture should still be exactly where they should be . i even e-mailed the previous owner and asked him if he ever had the bike jetted to match the kerker pipe and he said the guy that owned it before him put the pipe on and it had always run great . so there's something still a miss in the carbs ....i just don't see how , i cleaned these carbs better than i would if i was getting paid to do it , everything is clear and clean !
                    Last edited by TDodge7; 05-11-2009, 02:59 PM.

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                    • #25
                      You FIRST PROBLEM:
                      so the sync and idle and idle mixture should still be exactly where they should be
                      THEY ARE NOT the same!! The sync will change just pulling and reinstalling the carbs. You MUST re-sync ANYTIME you pull the carbs. Things move, and it's the ONLY way to KNOW it's correct. Poor idle and no low end power COULD be sync, or it could be a bad pick-up coil wire.
                      Ray Matteis
                      KE6NHG
                      XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
                      XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

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                      • #26
                        here's a video , it can explain better than i can .

                        http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NYWYi_GwYBo

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                        • #27
                          it won't let me edit my last post , so ...

                          that last little straight away is a 4 foot hill , it's not very steep , you can't really hear it but i rev it past half throttle to make it up that hill and it's on the verge of konking out . you'd think a big 4 cylinder bike like this would be able to idle up that hill with all the torque it has . it almost seems like it runs on all 4 at idle but under load it's only running on 2 . i didn't hear it in the video but sometimes it will have little backfires randomly . and at the end the battery dies , thats the battery that's been in it for the past 4 years , so i'm supprised it has any juice in it at all .
                          Last edited by TDodge7; 05-11-2009, 05:01 PM.

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                          • #28
                            Td...

                            After watching your video just now, let me first say that the way your's is performing right now is a sad indicator of what one of these bikes runs like when they're healthy. Definitely have a problem. Sounds like it's running on 2 cylinders, and dragging 2. But I do agree w/ DiverRay here. And his suggestion about wires could also be a good lead. It also could be a timing issue... and that can cause hard starting when warm, as well as the other things.
                            Your post doesn't say what area you're from, and it might help to add that to your posts so someone near you might lend a hand.
                            One thing about these bikes, the charging systems don't put out a whole lot anyway, and slow rpm's are not helping. Might save you some bucks to put the battery on a trickle charger for a while, then check the volts. Fully charged should be about 12.5 w/ bike off. Bike running @ 3000 rpm's should be around 14-14.5V. Headlight brightness is another good test.
                            Then do a load test. if it holds up, it's just discharged, and not bad. At least you'll know. Get your battery / charging taken care of, try to hook up w/ someone nearby who can help you set up the carbs and synch 'em, then go from there. Takes patience, but the payoff is great when you can fix it yourself. Hang in there.
                            '82 XJ1100J Maxim (has been sold.)

                            '79 F "Time Machine"... oh yeah, Baby.... (Sold back to Maximan)

                            2011 Kaw Concours 14 ABS

                            In the warden's words from Cool Hand Luke;
                            "What we have here is a failure to communicate."

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              One more suggestion...

                              Do you know how long the bike has set and how old the fuel in the tank is? Bad gas and rusty gas tanks are NOTORIOUS for causing these kinds of problems. Lots of threads you will find here for tips if you find a rusty tank. Filters are great extra insurance! JAT
                              '82 XJ1100J Maxim (has been sold.)

                              '79 F "Time Machine"... oh yeah, Baby.... (Sold back to Maximan)

                              2011 Kaw Concours 14 ABS

                              In the warden's words from Cool Hand Luke;
                              "What we have here is a failure to communicate."

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Originally posted by XJOK2PLAY View Post
                                After watching your video just now, let me first say that the way your's is performing right now is a sad indicator of what one of these bikes runs like when they're healthy. Definitely have a problem. Sounds like it's running on 2 cylinders, and dragging 2. But I do agree w/ DiverRay here. And his suggestion about wires could also be a good lead. It also could be a timing issue... and that can cause hard starting when warm, as well as the other things.
                                Your post doesn't say what area you're from, and it might help to add that to your posts so someone near you might lend a hand.
                                One thing about these bikes, the charging systems don't put out a whole lot anyway, and slow rpm's are not helping. Might save you some bucks to put the battery on a trickle charger for a while, then check the volts. Fully charged should be about 12.5 w/ bike off. Bike running @ 3000 rpm's should be around 14-14.5V. Headlight brightness is another good test.
                                Then do a load test. if it holds up, it's just discharged, and not bad. At least you'll know. Get your battery / charging taken care of, try to hook up w/ someone nearby who can help you set up the carbs and synch 'em, then go from there. Takes patience, but the payoff is great when you can fix it yourself. Hang in there.
                                i'm in Fairfax Va , near the top of Virginia . what is this pickup coil wire problem i've seen people talk about ? my trickle charger is dead and this battery is junk , i've got the cash for a new one i just wanted to make sure it will run right before i sank alot of money into it . my headlight bulb needs replacing too , so i couldn't tell you how bright it is . i was going to give the carbs a bench synch but they were all so close i didn't think it would make too much of a difference . i'm thinking about ordering one of those carbtune synchronizers , someone i used to know let me use his one and it was pretty nice .
                                Originally posted by XJOK2PLAY View Post
                                Do you know how long the bike has set and how old the fuel in the tank is? Bad gas and rusty gas tanks are NOTORIOUS for causing these kinds of problems. Lots of threads you will find here for tips if you find a rusty tank. Filters are great extra insurance! JAT
                                it sat for 4 years , the tank was empty , the carbs mostly empty . the tank isn't pristine inside , but i've run worse .

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