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Last electrical hack-- I hope!

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  • Last electrical hack-- I hope!

    OK, waiting on the float pin tool to complete my initial restoration of my 80SG via an ultrasonic carb clean. Got a stuck float valve in 2 for sure. Leaks except when petcock is off.

    Hoping the gearbox is good. Only thing not tested yet. Felt good to rebuild the brakes and have them work.

    In the meantime, I'm fixing the turn signals and attempting to button up the headlight and instrument cluster.

    The bike had been hacked into with an ignition bypass. The instrument panel lights and turn signals worked via an on/off switch which powered all the systems.

    I thought I had undone all that and put things back to normal. But after hooking up all the connectors and turn signals I'm left with a blue wire (actually two blue wires going into a single female connector and a red wire with no apparent mate in sight.

    If I touch the red wire to the blue wires I get instrument speedo and tach lights even with the ignition switch off.

    None of the stock connectors are missing any wires going into them. And I can't find a mate for the blue wires either.

    No power to the turn signals at all.

    Only clue I see is that in the wiring diagram that the red and blue wires terminate in a connector that isn't identified. Clymer manual shows it just above the speedo wiring block. There is a hack inside the speedometer, but I think I cleaned that up.

    Am I missing something simple?

    Thanks as always for the help.
    Bothell, WA
    1980 XS1100SG

  • #2
    I think you might still have a problem inside the speedo with the self canceling circuit.I'll look at schematic tomorrow if you don't get it by then. Terry
    1980 special (Phyllis)
    1196 10.5 to 1 kit,megacycle cams,shaved head,dynojet carb kit,ported intake and exhaust,mac 4 into 1 exhaust,drilled rotors,ss brake lines,pods,mikes xs green coils,iridium plugs,led lights,throttle lock,progressive shocks,oil cooler,ajustable cam gears,HD valve springs,Vmax tensioner mod

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by greatnw View Post
      I thought I had undone all that and put things back to normal. But after hooking up all the connectors and turn signals I'm left with a blue wire (actually two blue wires going into a single female connector and a red wire with no apparent mate in sight.
      If they're the wires I think they are:

      The Blue is switched, relay controlled, 10Amp fused, power for running lights. Its fuse is the Headlight fuse and it only has voltage after the engine starts and the Headlight Relay is activated.

      The Red is unswitched, 30Amp fused, accessory power direct from the Main fuse and the battery.

      There might also be a large Brown wire with a spade connector. That's switched, 30Amp fused, accessory power coming from the ignition switch but before the fuse box. It's fuse is also the Main fuse.


      Regards,

      Scott
      -- Scott
      _____

      2004 ST1300A: No name... yet
      1982 XJ1100J: "Baby" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
      1980 XS1100G: "Columbo" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
      1979 XS1100SF: "Bush" W.I.P.
      1979 XS1100F: parts
      2018 Heritage Softail Classic 117 FLHCS SE: "Nanuk" It's DEAD, it's not just resting. It is an EX cycle.

      Comment


      • #4
        OK, had a little time after I got home from taking the girls to youth group.

        So I hooked up all the turn signals and had power to all. Intermittent flashing, never more than a couple. Not too worried about sorting that out yet. Just glad to see power to all. The turn signal indicators on the instrument panel were illuminated, too.

        Touched the red wire to the blue wire and the tach and speedo lights came on. This time I heard a relay click. SO, I disconnected the red wire from the blue and the speedo and tach lights stayed on. I read that the lights don't come on until the engine is running and generating a charge. Am I correct on that? If so, seems like I just jumped the relay?

        The headlight high beam indicator worked correctly then, too. The neutral switch light has never come on and didn't now either.

        If I turned the key off and back on the only thing that illuminated were the turn signals.

        I'm thinking I'm close to normal except for the original questions regarding the blue and red wires.

        There is a wire hack on the blue wires to the speedometer just off the connector inside the headlight. Would there have been a male connector there?

        I can take a picture if that would help. Hope my rambling makes sense.
        Bothell, WA
        1980 XS1100SG

        Comment


        • #5
          I'm going through a hassle myself as to find out why i don't have wires to connect my tip over switch.Years ago when i first got the bike i took it to 2 people- a Yamaha mechanic and a guy named John who had a cycle shop.John was great and used to be on a racing team and he knew the ins and outs to just about any bike.The Yamaha guy was looking to sell his dealership but he new carbs as he used to bracket race alot.I suspect one of them did the switch as it has been disabled for about 18 years!I have to make a bracket to mount the switch as someone cut it off.
          1980 XS1100 SG
          Inline fuel filters
          New wires in old coils-outer spark plugs
          160 mph speedometer mod
          Kerker Exhaust
          xschop K & N air filter setup
          Dynojet Recalibration kit
          1999 Kawasaki ZRX1100
          1997 Jeep Cherokee 4.5"lift installed

          Comment


          • #6
            The blue wire may be the Neutral indicator wire. According to the diagram (IIRC) the Neutral indicator wire is blue. The wire was totally gone on mine, so I had to run an entirely new wire for that circuit. Does the Neutral switch have a wire running to it? It's located under the shift pedal, on the underside of the engine, and kinda covered by the exhaust. It's the only thing in that area requiring a wire. Should have a phillips screw head pointing straight down toward the ground. All that does is ground out when the gears are in neutral and it turns on the light in the tach.
            1980 XS850SG - Sold
            1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
            Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
            Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

            Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
            -H. Ford

            Comment


            • #7
              The blue wire is actually for accsessory lighting or for running lights. It shouldn't have anything connected to it.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by greatnw View Post
                I read that the lights don't come on until the engine is running and generating a charge. Am I correct on that? If so, seems like I just jumped the relay?
                Yes, you jumped the Headlight Relay. There is a latching diode inside of the relay to keep the headlight and running lights on until the ignition switch is turned off.

                If I turned the key off and back on the only thing that illuminated were the turn signals.
                The headlight and running lights should stay off until the engine is started and the turn signals should stay off until the turn signal switch is activated.

                If the turn signals are lighting up when you turn on the ignition then the turn signal switch is sticking.

                I can take a picture if that would help. Hope my rambling makes sense.
                A picture would help. There are a couple of different shades of blue wires used and they're for different circuits.

                The Blue wires are running lights.
                The Sky Blue wire is for the Neutral light.
                The Red wire is Battery power.


                Regards,

                Scott
                -- Scott
                _____

                2004 ST1300A: No name... yet
                1982 XJ1100J: "Baby" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
                1980 XS1100G: "Columbo" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
                1979 XS1100SF: "Bush" W.I.P.
                1979 XS1100F: parts
                2018 Heritage Softail Classic 117 FLHCS SE: "Nanuk" It's DEAD, it's not just resting. It is an EX cycle.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by greatnw View Post
                  - - - I thought I had undone all that and put things back to normal. But after hooking up all the connectors and turn signals I'm left with a blue wire (actually two blue wires going into a single female connector and a red wire with no apparent mate in sight. - - -
                  Only clue I see is that in the wiring diagram that the red and blue wires terminate in a connector that isn't identified. Clymer manual shows it just above the speedo wiring block. - - -
                  Hi GNW,
                  when I first got inside my XS11SG's headlight shell I found them too. Relax, those red & blue orphans are extras. Someone posted they are for powering up lights on an optional factory fairing.
                  Fred Hill, S'toon
                  XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
                  "The Flying Pumpkin"

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Sounds good to me. Makes sense too. Also makes sense with the wiring diagram deadending a blue and red to nothing.

                    I was taking carbs apart tonight. I'll start another thread on that one.
                    Bothell, WA
                    1980 XS1100SG

                    Comment

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