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Has anyone tried feeding Seafoam in thru the boot vaccuum nipples?
Thinking I have some grunge on the valve seals.
Pour it the engine and let it idle for a while but don't ride it too far or at all. That will clean up the inside of grunge.
BDF Special
80SG Vetter bagger 1196 Wiseco big bore kit, Mega Cycle Cams, slotted cam gears, ported and flowed head, bronze intake seats, Dyno Jet kit, Dyno coils and Mikes XS air pods, Venture cam chain adjuster,Geezer's regulator, Clutch mod, Mac 4 into 1 with custom built and tuned baffle, Oil cooler,MikesXS emulators mod.
Dyno tuned to 98 hp at the rear wheel.
Pour it the engine and let it idle for a while but don't ride it too far or at all. That will clean up the inside of grunge.
I put half a can in the crankcase and half a can in the gas tank, have just been letting it warm up runing it for about 10 to 15 min. for the last few days, should i change the oil and get it out of there ?
1979 xs1100 f
142 main, 45 pilot, Jardeen crosover 4/2, no air box
floats @ 25.7
I put half a can in the crankcase and half a can in the gas tank, have just been letting it warm up runing it for about 10 to 15 min. for the last few days, should i change the oil and get it out of there ?
Like James said, don't ride it hard or very far. When I did mine I took it for a short run up the road and back to get the engine up to temp and then did a complete oil and filter change.
Oil was as black as your boot and it cured my clutch slip!
Paul
1983 XJ1100 Maxim
1979 XS1100 Standard
1980 XS1100 Special
I'm not a motorcycle mechanic but I play one on the internet.
Somebody will probably be along here before long to tell you definitely don't ride it with seafoam in the crankcase (and it's usually TC) - idle only for maybe 10-15 minutes (with a fan blowing on the engine). It really thins out the oil, and there have been reports of bearing damage as a result - same as when you get gas leaking past your fuel valves and getting into the crankcase. That being said, I did it by the label instructions and ran a couple hundred miles with no problems. But then I've always been lucky. Wouldn't do it again, though.
On the valves, the grunge usually comes from the valve seals. If you're getting that oily looking stuff on your plugs after it's been sitting a while, might be time for some new seals. They do wear out.
You could run it thru the nipples but you would need
to put an aquarium valve to restrict flow otherwise it will suck to much in and a hydrolic lock will occur.
Personally i wouldnt see the point in doing it this way,
be better off putting more in the fuel and running it thru the carbs.
pete
new owner of
08 gen2 hayabusa
former owner
1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
zrx carbs
18mm float height
145 main jets
38 pilots
slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters
Good old Automatic Transmission Fluid works well for pulling into vacuum ports to clean the combustion chambers. Probably much cheaper than Seafoam. It also makes some great smoke signals, so expect the local tribals to come wanting some barbqued deer.
ATF also does a fair job at cleaning sludge from the internals of engines. Usually about 1/4 ATF for about 200 miles and change the oil.
Would you believe the stuff also works great in automatic transmissions?
Good old Automatic Transmission Fluid works well for pulling into vacuum ports to clean the combustion chambers. Probably much cheaper than Seafoam. It also makes some great smoke signals, so expect the local tribals to come wanting some barbqued deer.
ATF also does a fair job at cleaning sludge from the internals of engines. Usually about 1/4 ATF for about 200 miles and change the oil.
Would you believe the stuff also works great in automatic transmissions?
Yeah Ivan,
I have used ATF like that in my car before. I also poured it into the bike when I first found it; cylinders, and crankcase. It has a ton of detergent in it. Makes good hand cleaner too.
I'm starting to get a whiff of burnt oil lately, so I am hoping it's valve seals and not rings. Was thinking if I did the thru the intakes treatment, it might clean it up some. Supposed to get the backside of the valve stem. I don't want to put that concentration in the gas tank and lay down smoke screens for 120 miles.
Like James said, don't ride it hard or very far. When I did mine I took it for a short run up the road and back to get the engine up to temp and then did a complete oil and filter change.
Oil was as black as your boot and it cured my clutch slip!
Same results on my 78
78E ... Gone but not forgotten
2006 Kawasaki Concours....just getting to know it
Works great in my cars, using a 2.5oz bottle every six months gives me noticable improved performance, mileage goes from 23 to 28mpg and best of all my vehicles always pass the yearly state emissions inspection.
Not sure if its available outside the North Texas area but this is some really good stuff.
It depends on where you get your snakes. There's a town in Oklahoma about 50 miles west of where I used to live, that has a rattlesnake roundup every spring. Thousands of them get collected. They milk 'em for the venom, then butcher a bunch and have a rattlesnake feed. Those snakes, being hatched and living in Oklahoma all their lives, ingest oil by osmosis as they scurry along the ground. The extract is both snakey and oiley, and is the only kind of snake oil you'd want to use in something you like. So snake oil isn't bad, if you're careful of the source.
1980 XS 11 Special: The King of Kong, 9th wonder of the world. Pacifico fairing, chopped shield, Yamaha hard bags, Diamond seat, T-Kat fork brace, XJ top end, YICS Eliminator, '80 carbs from Spyder Cycle Works, K&N Air filter, Fuse block, stainless steel valves & reg/rect from Oregon MC Parts. Raptor CCT, XJ air shocks, 850 FD, Sportster mufflers, Standard handle bar, Tusk Bar Risers, SS braided brake lines. Cat Eye speedometer. HID projector beam headlight, LED running lights.
No offense, Woof. I use Sea Foam myself. Might be other goos stuff out there too. Haven't found it yet.
1980 XS 11 Special: The King of Kong, 9th wonder of the world. Pacifico fairing, chopped shield, Yamaha hard bags, Diamond seat, T-Kat fork brace, XJ top end, YICS Eliminator, '80 carbs from Spyder Cycle Works, K&N Air filter, Fuse block, stainless steel valves & reg/rect from Oregon MC Parts. Raptor CCT, XJ air shocks, 850 FD, Sportster mufflers, Standard handle bar, Tusk Bar Risers, SS braided brake lines. Cat Eye speedometer. HID projector beam headlight, LED running lights.
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