Cam Chain Tension Help...

[tdeir70]

I replaced my cam chain tensioner housing (used) due to stripping the old lock bolt. I have re-installed according to manual and advice from previous posts and double checking everything including torque settings, etc. After starting the bike I don't think the plunger released because it made a VERY loud clatter. I removed the assembly and noticed the plunger was still tight in the housing... I'm now concerned of possible valve damage or is that just because there is not enough tension on the chain? I will try reinstalling to see if the plunger will release properly. Any tips or advice would be most helpful.

Thanks,

Tom
'82 XJ1100

[DiverRay]

BEFORE YOU RUN THE BIKE AGAIN, CHECK THE CAM GEARS!! You will need to pull the valve cover and left crank cover, as well as the "new" tensioner. SLOWLY rotate the crank with a wrench, and pressure on the cam chain, until the cam dots and "T" mark align. If they are still aligned, you are OK. If they are NOT aligned I hope it's only one tooth off!
Once you are sure everything is good, take the "new" tensioner and pushing the end, release the lock bolt. The plunger should try to "pop" out of the housing with the bolt loose just about 1/2 turn, but stop before it does. If not, the housing may be binding, or missing a spring that is supposed to be in there. Still holding the plunger against something solid, loosen the lock bolt about five turns, and allow the plunger to come out of the housing. You can now inspect the parts, and make sure everything is clean. This is also a GOOD time to clean and seal the plug on the end of the housing, so it won't start leaking one day after you install it.
To install the new housing, push the plunger and spring in the housing as far as possible, and set the lock bolt to hold it. You DO NOT need to tighten it very much! Use a punch to push in on the cam chain, and rotate the crank with the wrench until the "C" lines up with the pointer. Now install the new tensioner and tighten the hold down bolts for it. THEN release the lock bolt on the plunger, you should hear it snap, and tighten the bolt once again, but DO NOT over tighten. Tighten the lock nut, and you should be done.

[tdeir70]

Thanks Ray, I'm on it...

[tdeir70]

All fixed, timing good too; the replacement spring seemed to be binding and having trouble "letting" go, I still had the old one and it works just great. My God I thought it was all over but the cryin'...thanks again Ray.

Tom

[DiverRay]

Tom,
I'm glad it was a happy ending!! Now you get to ride!!

[Ken Talbot]

the replacement spring seemed to be binding and having trouble "letting" go,

Often, it is actually a burr on the plunger shaft, from where the lock bolt digs into it. When you've got it apart, the burr is obvious, and is easy to remove with a pass or two with a fine file.

[trbig]

Yup... when I first read this, I thought it was the death of a few valves. Glad to hear it didn't jump any teeth on you.


Tod

[tdeir70]

Thanks everyone for your help. What a learning curve that was...

[saddle up]

cam tensioner and me went round and round

Doing routine maintenance, I did the usual cam chain tensioner routine. I started yesterday afternoon. Did it by the book. Everything sounded nice and smooth, like a sewing machine. Shut it off. Fired her back up, noise. Did the routine again, fired her up... good. Shut'er down fired 'er back up, good. Wait 20 minutes, fired it up, noise. Gave it up for the day after turning on and off several times,,,, sounding good.

This morning, fired it up, clatter. I tried with plugs out, plugs in, putting it in fifth gear, turning the rear wheel, you name it throttle open,, airbox off, cleaned the filter,,, ect.. sometimes I heard the distinct click, other times, no. I set the cam chain , warmed it up, ran at 4,000 for 10 seconds or so,, sounded good. Shut it off. started in up, sounded good. Waited 2 hour's, fired up, clatter.

I backed the bolt out about 3 turns, aligned everything up, tighten up the bolt, gingerly,(no click) fired up, off, on, off, many times. Sounded good. Let it cool down. Had a death grip and the bolt and gently tightened the lock nut.

Finally after several hours, it is good to go. My question is; did I have a bur as mentioned below? Or is my cam chain shot?

I know i should take the tensioner off and check chain stretch. But the point being why would it purr like a kitten after several on/off's then change? Anybody else have this proplem. I searched every freaking thread and didn't hear anything like this??
Regards

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Saddle,

IF it sounded good when you first adjusted it, then I don't think you had a burr, but I think you might not have set the lock nut as tight as it needed to be, and so the pressure on the chain pushed the plunger back out towards the adjuster housing thereby loosening the slack, and therefore noise. You readjust, get tension on the plunger, and it's quiet again, and the last time you kept the main lock bolt TIGHT, and then the locknut, and it's now maintaining proper tension on the plunger shaft and the chain!!
T.C.

[79XS11F]

I always do this adjustment with the valve cover off so I can see what's going on and confirm that the adjustment went as it should. After the adjustment I will rotate the engine by hand several times and confirm that the cam timing remained correct. This way I will NOT have to post about how my bike eat its valves or do any crying. It only takes perhaps 20 additional minutes to remove the seat, tank, ballast resistor, horn, plug wires and valve cover to check things out and be safe. In any case even an experienced wrench should never just freely turn the engine over with the starter after making this adjustment. It's just asking for trouble.
Beginners should be very careful. Rob

[saddle up]

Thanks for the advice and knowledge,

This isn't my first rodeo with XS1100, bought my first in 80. Just never had this problem before. I consider my self better than the average wrench,,, well used to be.. can't see worth a crap anymore, along with just getting old.

But I reckon that I was "cheating" on the holding the bolt steady and tighening the locknut,,,I believe I was "guesstimating" how much the bolt would turn, when doing the locknut... them pipes are hot.. I guess that I got to get longer wrenches..duh or be more patient and wait for the motor to cool down. You'd figure that I would have more patience.. but when the bug bites, you want it now...lol
Thanks fellas. I guess that I need to do my shims also, just being lazy..