Oil cooler advice

[drooker56]

I recieved some advice on another post not to put my oil cooler back on while I reassemble my bike. I would love to leave it off because it is old and nasty and i could not afford a new one. How many of you run without coolers? can I bypass it with a simple hose? Or do I need some type of stock pipe? I was also toying with the idea of adding an oil tank next to mybattery, I have the room now that I am running pod filters. I figured this could cool and increase oil holding capacity but how would that effect the oil level in the engine. is this a good idea for a mod and has anyone done this?

[DGXSER]

Not sure, but I do not think they put an oil cooler on until the XJ series or maybe the MNS? So most of us are runnign without one and no real issues. JMHO

[CatatonicBug]

No cooler here. I think HAVING an oil cooler is the exception. From what I've seen, most don't have them. Since you're in the colder part of the country anyway, you might as well sell it to somebody in New Mexico or Arizona

[drooker56]

I don't think its worth anything but I would if it was. Thanks for the advice but what about a bypass?

[CatatonicBug]

I don't think its worth anything but I would if it was. Thanks for the advice but what about a bypass?

There are lots of threads on here that talk about the removal of an oil cooler, but I noticed this one that seemed to cover it. If not, just do a search, and see what you can find in other threads.

[DiverRay]

CatatonicBug wrote:

There are lots of threads on here that talk about the removal of an oil cooler, but I noticed this one that seemed to cover it. If not, just do a search, and see what you can find in other threads.

The problem with his oil cooler is the oil lines DO NOT pick up and return to the filter area. He has one of the "suspect" coolers that replaced the oil pipe going to the head! I've posted the Yamaha parts picture that shows the original pipe so he should be able to get what he needs.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Drooker,

Most of the Oil Coolers used adapter plates that the OEM filter cup bolts up into, and provides the cooling line outlets to the radiator. SO...to remove the cooler, you remove the radiator AND the adapter plate on the bottom of the engine. The plate is held in with a special threaded pipe/bolt/nut combo that the OEM filter bolt screws into. Once you remove that special pipe/bolt/nut AND the adapter plate, then you can attach the OEM filter cup with the OEM filter bolt directly up against the engine! That should do it, unless you have some freaky frankenstein system??
T.C.

[DGXSER]

TC, this is kind of a parallel thread to another where DiverRay noticed and has been addressing the same item. Looking at the pictures on Photobucket of Drooker's bike, his oil cooler is fed from the crankcase oil pump outlet where the tube goes to feed the cylinder head, and the outlet of the cooler goes into the cylinder head where the tube normally feeds. Putting the cooler between the oil pump and the cylinder head. A dangerous position if it plugs for sure!!

[drooker56]

Thanks for all your help I am removing the cooler for sure. Somone cut the pipe going from the case to the head and i will be refitting it back to stock or use a short bit of hose for a jumper. Thanks again this site is saving my but! you guys are awsome. Right now I am just waiting for my carb kits to come in the mail. here is a pic of the motor you can see where the pipe was cut and moved.

[TopCatGr58]

Thanks, guess I didn't see that picture!

Sounds like he needs to contact Andreas for a spare OEM oil supply tube, and not to forget FRESH crush washers! Of course if he was in a hurry to get riding it, I would think some high pressure oil cooler line mounted inbetween the two supply pipe sections would work in a pinch!
T.C.

[dbeardslee]

That's the way my oil cooler is grafted in. The a new oil delivery pipe would be the best fix as TC said, but in a pinch you could probably just run the appropriately sized rubber oil line between the two fittings and secure with some hose clamps. Might have to cut the top banjo fitting before the bend and reinstall the plumbing fittings (teflon tape around the threads and around the 'ball' will keep them from leaking) to get the top one pointed in the right direction. Or you may be able to remove the plumbing fittings and just use 1/4" oil hose and hose clamps. If I remember correctly mine has 3/8" oil lines that run from the cooler back to the modified banjo fittings.

[DiverRay]

T.C. said:

and not to forget FRESH crush washers!

One thing you may be able to do is heat the old washer to red hot, and quench in water. That will make them "soft" again, and you can re-use them. This is an OLD trick from people who rebuild steam engines!

[John]

I was also toying with the idea of adding an oil tank next to mybattery, I have the room now that I am running pod filters. I figured this could cool and increase oil holding capacity but how would that effect the oil level in the engine. is this a good idea for a mod and has anyone done this?

I think he may be on to something here. I don't recall seeing it discussed in the past. It would be very easy if you are using the adaptor plate style of cooler line fitment. A remote tank would help to cool the oil, but it would need to be in the airstream somehow. Behind the battery wouldn't be good because of the extra heat the battery would be subjected to on both sides, but in front of the battery, if you are runnng pod filters may be workable. There would also need to be a check valve in the return line to prevent the oil from draining back to the oil pan, and flooding the engine with oil. I know the oil cooler don't have a check valve, but the volume of oil that is in the cooler and lines is actually small, maybe a cup or two, but if you had a one or two quart tank, the drain back could be a problem when the crankshaft counterweights start slinging it around. Wudda ya think guys?

[xs1100rider]

toss the oil cooler

my oil line blew and caused me to lose my engine.my new motor will go in without one.