Piant? I am confused, what do you recomend?

[drooker56]

I repainting darn near everything (yes this means rattle can). I was told to use Plastikote by about everyone I talked to and i was happy with some of the parts until I picked up a cheap can of Rustoleum for simple things like the battery box, tripple tree, and speedo buckets etc... The Rustoleum covers so much easier and nicer. Is this normal? I am getting closer to doing my tins and I don't really want to use Rustoleum but its so easy and looks nice. Is there anything else you recomend or do I say screw it and use it? I don't want to be a rube but I don't want to screw it up trying to be more of a painter than I am. WTF!

[trbig]

So for translation.. piant is paint, tins = fins? And no clue about rube. Thought maybe Nube... but they aren't anywhere close together.. lol.

Anyway.. if indeed you are talking about the cooling fins, I would suggest a high temp paint. Duplicolor at your local autoparts store worked well for a lot of people. They also have them in Glossy colors.. not just matte.

For the regular metal stuff that you have used the rustoleum on... that's a good use for it and have had good luck with it on household stuff.


Tod

[BigDick]

Rustoleum is actually decent paint. I know of a lot of people who use it to paint their cars (old hot rods) and it comes out looking pretty good. The most important thing you can do with any paint job is your prep work. If you don't sand your stuff and feather out any chips in the paint and any bondo work you've done it won't matter what kind of paint you use. A tack rag and wiping the parts down with prep fluid (it removes grease and oil) are also invaluable, if you don't do these two things you'll end up with fish eye (from grease and oil, the paint won't stick and it'll bubble up and look like fish eyes) and also dust and dirt in the paint that you won't be able to sand out I'll look kinda like sandpaper, just not so bad.

[drooker56]

By "tins" I was meaning the tank and fenders. If you say rustoleum is pretty good that makes me happy 'cause I am thinking of using it. Its cheaper and by god it covers easy with a finish you would hardly have to sand. I have been working tirlessly on prep. While priming my tank, well let me back up. I hung my tank by wire from a screw to the floor joices in my basemet, while turning it to prime the back the wire popped off the screw and my pristine tank hit the floor. i can't even tell you the flow of foul language that came out of me! so now I am fill a large dent with bono and sanding, and filling, and sanding, and filling, and... you get the pic.

I rush and therefore it takes me longer and i have to start over and fix things. Patience is truly a virtue and one not predisposed in me. Something I will be working on.

I need to learn how to get out of my own way. Sorry venting...

[dbeardslee]

I either put my pieces on a stand, or hang them, and right before I paint (and between each coat) I spray them with Simple Green (to get all the oil from hands, etc off) and clean lightly with a grey scotch brite pad. Then hose them off, and blow them off with dry compressed air. I don't touch them at all after the wash, and I wait 'till the pieces are completely dry before proceeding. Works pretty well.

Mr. Clean has a car wash kit that they sell with a filter that provides de-ionized water for the final rinse after washing. Leaves no water spots at all - even in direct sunlight. I'm thinking that de-ionized water would probably be good for rinsing the Simple Green off, but I haven't tried it yet.

[BigDick]

something else, if you have a "paint booth" a garage or room or whatever most people will recommend that you wet down the floor, just a light mist enough damp it and keep the dust down. That'll reduce the amount of wet sanding you'll have to do to get the dust out of the finished paint. Body work is something that REQUIRES patience, no ifs ands or buts about it. If you rush something will mess up and you'll be starting from square one. Not fun, I've done it

[Crazcnuk]

No experience with Rustoleum, but in my experience the only issue I have with common spray cans is that, while the paint looks good, it doesn't stay that way long.

Most of the time it seems to fade within a year or two. The only ones that seem to last longer are the touch up paints from Duplicolor.

For precleaning, I use Dupont Wash n Wipe. It not only cleans all oils and finger prints, but it prepares the paint for the next coat.

Also buy a few Tack cloths. They are designed to pick up any and all particles on the surface before you paint.

[Ivan]

I am painting my Venture with rattle can Rustoleum and then giving it a generous Rustoleum clear coat. So far it looks pretty good for a rattle can job. The clear is supposedly UV resistant, so it should last quite a while.

Best paint job $29.99 can buy!

[psycoreefer]

Hey you might try going into finish masters, over by where pep boys used to be on 28th st and just asking them what they'd recommend. The problem with most of the rattle can paints is that they aren't gas proof, so if you spill a little while filling up it makes your tank look like crap. The other thing I've considered doing is calling up mako, they paint cars cheap, and finding out what they'd charge for a tank and side covers, then do all the prep yourself and let them spray a true automotive finish coat on it.

[drooker56]

I have driven past the place but I never stopped in. Today I bought my paint and have begun prep work so it looks like its happening here. Thanks for your advice. i wish i would have thougt of Manco a while ago, its a great idea but my project budget has shrunk due to ordering new shocks after a couple beers (not smart don't drink and ebay), I am sure they are going to be awsome but the money could have been better spent. I may have some pics up today if not tomorrow I have it about 80% reassembled.

[Pat Kelly]

When I rattle-canned my E's Venture tank I clear-coated with clear, high-temp, engine paint. I have spilled gas on it with no ill effects in the last 3 years.

[cywelchjr]

I am painting my Venture with rattle can Rustoleum and then giving it a generous Rustoleum clear coat. So far it looks pretty good for a rattle can job. The clear is supposedly UV resistant, so it should last quite a while.

Best paint job $29.99 can buy!

I used duplicolor on mine, adhesion promoter followed by the color and then several coats of clear.

[MrOzz]

Have you tried talking to some of the local body shops? Some will paint it up real cheap if you give them a preped tank. I am having my tank, sidecovers done metallic black. I did the body filler and primed them myself. Its going to run me about $50.00 for the paint and clearcoat.

[fredintoon]

So for translation.. piant is paint, tins = fins? And no clue about rube. Thought maybe Nube... but they aren't anywhere close together..
Tod

Hi Tod,
tins is tins, that is, sheet metal parts. Rube is Reuben, the carnival workers' term for customer, from Reuben = yokel = ignorant person.
And my CRS has kicked in, I can't remember the name but there's this kit you can buy for less than $20 that has a spray head, a can of pressurised gas propellant and a glass jar to put your own paint in. You can mix your own gasoline-proof two part paint by the jarful and fizz it yourself without having to buy an air compressor and pain gun.

[MrOzz]

I can't remember the name but there's this kit you can buy for less than $20 that has a spray head, a can of pressurised gas propellant and a glass jar to put your own paint in. You can mix your own gasoline-proof two part paint by the jarful and fizz it yourself without having to buy an air compressor and pain gun.

Fredintoon,

I belive the kit your referring to is Preval Sprayer. You can find it at most paint stores. I found mine at a Sherwin Williams.

Hope this helps,
Ozz