Battery suggestions for XJ1100 Maxim?

[LCS249]

I've got a trickle charger on, but it still gives me the "BATT" warning for the first few miles.

I added a few electrical items lately, but nothing draining ... as far as I know. An LED voltmeter, and connectors for the trickle charger and for heated clothing ... which I have not yet even used.

So, I'm thinking a good quality battery is in order?

thanks,

Leon

[trbig]

Before spending money.. check what you have. Check the battery while the bike is off. Somewhere @ 12.3 volts? Does it crank the starter plenty fast? With it running at @ 2500- 3k rpm, is it showing at a little over 14 volts at the battery?

Lastly... (Actually check this first..) That battery light is attached to a battery fluid sensor. Any corroded connections, low battery fluid, etc you will get this battery fail on your dash.

You can buy a battery that will work from Walmart, but you'll have to spend a little more to get one that has a spot for you to put that sensor. There is a fix you can do to get the light out on the dash though if you go the cheaper route.


Tod

[79XS11F]

When you get your battery make sure it's the right amp / hr rating. My 79 takes a 20 amp / hr unit but I don't know about the other bikes. If you can't find a 20 amp / hr unit go to the next UP like say 24 amp / hour
Rob

[LCS249]

Before spending money.. check what you have. Check the battery while the bike is off. Somewhere @ 12.3 volts? Does it crank the starter plenty fast? With it running at @ 2500- 3k rpm, is it showing at a little over 14 volts at the battery?

Lastly... (Actually check this first..) That battery light is attached to a battery fluid sensor. Any corroded connections, low battery fluid, etc you will get this battery fail on your dash.

Ah-ha ... will check that out.

Thank you Tod and 79XS11F for responding right away.

I know Walmart has an inexpensive solution ... but what would you recommend if you wanted a "sure-fire" battery?

Leon

[79XS11F]

I really wouldn't worry too much about the source so lone as the battery has the correct rating. Most of Walmart's stuff is pretty good. Just cheap because of their Hugh buying power. Myself I use a Canadian tire battery that cost 89 buck. I have had it for 3 seasons with no problems. Now I just bough another one for my hop up bike that is the same. Biggest issue with old cars and bike etc is resistance to current flow across old connections and in the wire itself. Many pro wrench turners will tell you to replace your car battery every year once it hits 10 years old to avoid winter use issues but I think that's pushing it. A good well charged battery will however, save you a lot of grief in older machines.
Rob

[trbig]

I am currently using a Walmart battery and this will be it's 4th riding season... but my bike doesn't sit much even in winter and I keep the fluid level checked.

I've been called a tightwad.. but I just see no use getting rid of something that is working great still just because someone else tells me it's getting too old. (Umm... but I did learn my lesson the hard way about this and tires!) lol. First sign of problems, it'll be gone.. but there's been none yet. A failed battery isn't going to make me wreck.


Tod

[DiverRay]

I just put one of the EXPENSIVE batteries in my "daily ride". I know it DOES NOT have a place for the "battery sensor", as it's a sealed unit. It DOES crank the bike over MUCH faster than the old battery EVER did, though.

[Crazcnuk]

Normal lead-acid batteries last 3-5yrs on average. There are lemons, hence warranties, and a few last longer.

I've never found any difference between battery life on my new cars vs 30 year old ones.

I do put the biggest amp rated battery that I can fit in the stock spot, but bikes usually don't have any options in that area.

What kills them more often than age, here in the great white north, is freezing. You leave a light on, battery goes dead and freezes like a popsicle.

Those Gel batteries are supposed to be pretty good.

[Cobia]

Wal Mart Batteries

Hey LCS,
I 've been running WM batteries on two of my three bikes w/out a problem. Actually I have one on my XJ, as you, and in fact that battery has a "port" for the sensor but it isn't large enough for it so I left it out. I actually disconnected it from the harness. But ultimately I got sick and tired of having to bop the reset button twice to get rid of the blinking red light and decided to do something about it. The issue was that the probe's plastic insulator was of a larger diameter than the hole in the battery for it, so I took an emory cloth to it and reduced its diameter so it would fit down in the hole and reach the acid. Well, wouldn't you know, the MF still blinks at me for the first 15 mins of riding. I'm figuring, WTF!!, I got you in there and you should be soaked all the time an here you are causing an alarm at my console, @$#@.
I'm figuring that no matter that the sucker is soaking all the time, it needs juice to actually make it sense that it is actually in the acid and that the level is not low. It actually just stops blinking after the first 15 mins of riding. So, I just keep reseting it as necessar until it settles down.
Any and all further assitance, suggestions, fixes, or ridicule is welcome!!
Gracias Amigos.
Robert

[Bigfoot]

I went to Advance Auto Parts and they stock and sell an AGM battery for our bikes. I think it was around $79 + tax. It does not have the port for the sensor. There is a tech tip somewhere on here to trick the sensor but for now I just cancel the alarm when I start up the bike.

[LCS249]

I just put one of the EXPENSIVE batteries in my "daily ride". I know it DOES NOT have a place for the "battery sensor", as it's a sealed unit. It DOES crank the bike over MUCH faster than the old battery EVER did, though.

Hey DiverRay,

What did you get and where did you get it? I'm back in New Mexico and we don't get as much snow as the far north, but being in high desert, we do get freezing temps overnight in the winter.

Thanks all for the helpful comments. Truly.

LCS

[DiverRay]

I checked the "online" prices, and ended up at a Battery Plus store. I think it was about $90 to $110, but it works. I've only had it for a few months, so check back next year, and I'll let you know how it's doing. It IS a gel type battery, and with the "new" driving lights I now have, I still charge.

[LCS249]

Thanks Ray.

Leon