81" Carb Rebuild

[gene]

I just pulled the carb apart last night. The seats for the needles on two of the carbs came out when I was using my impact driver. Are they just set in there? Presssed in? I'm concerned and have not found a good detail source to use as a guide. First time I had to go this far due to corrosion. I'm still having alot of fun though.

Gene

[DiverRay]

Gene,
The 80 1/2 and up use a press in seat with an "O" ring seal. '78-'79 have a "bolt in" seat. The later carbs also have only one "T" fitting, for fuel. The early carbs had two, lower for fuel, upper was vent. Just two basic differences.
On your carbs be SURE to replace the "O" rings with the proper type. The later carbs have had problems with the "O"ring leaking, and the carbs flooding.

[gene]

Gene,
The 80 1/2 and up use a press in seat with an "O" ring seal. '78-'79 have a "bolt in" seat. The later carbs also have only one "T" fitting, for fuel. The early carbs had two, lower for fuel, upper was vent. Just two basic differences.
On your carbs be SURE to replace the "O" rings with the proper type. The later carbs have had problems with the "O"ring leaking, and the carbs flooding.

Are we talking about the same part? I am referring to the main nozzle part#34322-001. I didn't see an o-ring at all.

Gene

[DGXSER]

Hey Gene,

Easy on that nozzle with an impact driver. Unless you are referring to the Main Jet that screws into it from the float bowl side. That nozzle (also called an emulsion tube) slides in form the top of the carb, where your diaphram and slides were before you removed them. The main jet screws into the bottom end of that nozzle to hold it in place and position that jet. I would spray the tar out of everything in there with PB blaster and let it soak for a while before you try to pull anything.

The main jet just unscrews like any other screw, then I use a wooden dowel slightly larger than the hole in the nozzle to push it out, often you need to lightly rap on the dowel with a hammer to break it free. The dowel should give before the nozzle. The nozzle has a lsot in it that corresponds to a pin in the side of the carb body to keep everything aligned.

[gene]

Hey Gene,

Easy on that nozzle with an impact driver. Unless you are referring to the Main Jet that screws into it from the float bowl side. That nozzle (also called an emulsion tube) slides in form the top of the carb, where your diaphram and slides were before you removed them. The main jet screws into the bottom end of that nozzle to hold it in place and position that jet. I would spray the tar out of everything in there with PB blaster and let it soak for a while before you try to pull anything.

The main jet just unscrews like any other screw, then I use a wooden dowel slightly larger than the hole in the nozzle to push it out, often you need to lightly rap on the dowel with a hammer to break it free. The dowel should give before the nozzle. The nozzle has a lsot in it that corresponds to a pin in the side of the carb body to keep everything aligned.

I had the carb upside down and was taking the angle brackets off that hold the carbs together and the emulsion tube slide out. It looks fine but I thought it would be in alot tighter. I was not planning on pulling them out, but probably should since the center two are garbaged up. Anything that holds them in or do I just set them back in?

Gene

[DGXSER]

If your carbs are as dirty as your suggesting, My personal feeling is you should strip them down as far as they go and thoroughly clean everything you can with spray carb cleaner and compressed air. Mine came off looking darn clean, and yet, I have had to pull them back off a couple times to get more minute stuff out. It really does not take much to mess with these carbs. They can be very finicky (spelling).

Those nozzles just slide back in from the top. Make sure you line up the slot in the nozzle with the pin. You may need to use that dowel or something like it to gently nudge them in all the way against that pin.

[gene]

If your carbs are as dirty as your suggesting, My personal feeling is you should strip them down as far as they go and thoroughly clean everything you can with spray carb cleaner and compressed air. Mine came off looking darn clean, and yet, I have had to pull them back off a couple times to get more minute stuff out. It really does not take much to mess with these carbs. They can be very finicky (spelling).

Those nozzles just slide back in from the top. Make sure you line up the slot in the nozzle with the pin. You may need to use that dowel or something like it to gently nudge them in all the way against that pin.

Your right. I decided last night to take them completely down. I have one soaking in the carb cleaner. Thanks for the info, I will keep you posted.

Thanks,

Gene

[DGXSER]

Hopefully you already have read that you may not want to let the butterfly seals get in the carb cleaner. I never went that far, perhaps you know enough to pull those out. But the cleaner can ruin the seals and cause vacuum leaks and all manor of issues if they do not seal.

[gene]

Hopefully you already have read that you may not want to let the butterfly seals get in the carb cleaner. I never went that far, perhaps you know enough to pull those out. But the cleaner can ruin the seals and cause vacuum leaks and all manor of issues if they do not seal.

No, I did not read that part. I only put one in last night. Can you chnage them out? Do you have a good source for carb rebuilding for xs1100's.

Gene

[Ivan]

The shaft seals should be replaceable by finding a local car mechanic that has been around for quite a while, and ask if you can dig through his "stock pile" of carb gaskets and seals.

To replace them, you have to take the butterfly out by grinding the rear of the screws, they are staked in. Be sure to stake them again when reinstalling. If you arent 100% sure you know how to do this, dont.

[DGXSER]

Gene, there is a tech tip on the carbs and cleaning them. I honestly do not know about the butterfly seals. I only know what I have read here on that. Alot of the more knowledgable folks will chime in on that I am sure.

The tech tip is what I used and got through mine. Alot of folks lately have been going on about ultrasonic cleaners. Sounds like they do one heck of a job.

See this tech tip:

http://xs11.com/xs11-info/tech-tips/maintenance/carburators/65-removing-and-cleaning-your-xs11-carburators.html

[CatatonicBug]

Do you have a good source for carb rebuilding for xs1100's.

I can only supply this little tidbit. This is the kit I used to rebuild my carbs. It includes all the regular parts. Some sellers don't include jets or the idle screws, but this kit does. You need 4 of these kits to do your whole setup.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Gene,

The Main Jet Nozzle/emulsion tube IS held in place by the MAIN JET that is screwed into the end of it once it's put back into the carb, there is a washer there also just under the jet!

Sorry you didn't READ the tech tips or such before soaking your carb!
MikesXS.com also carries the carb butterfly shaft seals, I think they are like $5.00 ea, but hopefully you'll only need 1 pair, since you only soaked 1 carb body. The need for the peening of the little screw is that IF they ever worked loose, they would get sucked into the engine, not a good thing bouncing around with the piston and valves!

I wonder about locktite, but I don't know about how fuel will behave with it, whether it would break it down, so that's why the screws will need to be peened again when you put it back together.
T.C.

[renegade_xs11g]

I think the butterfly seals are available from, MikesXS (don't tell them you are working on an 11) BikeBandit, and/or PartsnMore....

Before I found Channel 11, I went to an ato parts store, local Performance Auto....bought green (viton) orings that fit....haven't had any problems, been 3 years