Stuck Bolt Causing Headaches

[yooucan2]

Has anyone had problems getting this bolt out? I have broken 2 sockets so far and I bought a stronger socket to try but now I am afraid I am going to break the bolt or round off the head. I have tried WD-40 but that does not seem to be helping. Would the vibrations of an air wrench do the trick? Maybe putting something under the engine to take some weight off? Any help would be much appreciated. I can't install my sweet, new kuryakyn highway pegs until I can get my engine guards on.

[79XS11F]

Turn the nut that's on the other side of that bolt. The nut is on the oil filter side.The weight of the engine is siting on that bolt. When putting it back torque it from the other side as well. once loose you may have to loosen the other mount nuts and jack the engine up ever so slightly to get the weight off the bolt for removal.
Rob

[Ken Talbot]

Yup, it is as easy as Rob says. It will be one of those "aha" moments.

[yooucan2]

Thank you!

Thanks a lot guys. I was wondering if I would have problems getting the bolt out, or more so back in, because of the engine weight. I guess I should invest in a small floor jack....

Thanks again guys. I'll give it a shot tomorrow.

[CatatonicBug]

I guess I should invest in a small floor jack....

Even a 2X4 and a rock would work. Anything that will allow you to get a little leverage under the engine to get the pressure off that bolt.

[DGXSER]

Just be sure to use something to spread the force out. Everything on the engine is finned and you want the force of the jack (and especially the 2x4) spread out over as many fins as you can to keep from breaking one off.

[fredintoon]

Negative WD40

- - - I have tried WD-40 but that does not seem to be helping. - - -

Hi UC2,
like the posts say, jack the motor up a tad to take it's weight off the bolt and take the nut off the far end. (and Oh Boy, do I love my air wrench but you shouldn't NEED one for this job.)
A real penetrating fluid like PB Blaster or many another formulation will also help loosen a stuck fastener BUT WD40 ain't one.
Can you say "Water Displacement"?
That's what WD40 does and it works great doing it but a penetrating fluid it ain't.

[yooucan2]

Thanks for the info guys!

I think I will try the Rock and 2x4 method. I just happen to have a spare 2x4, now just need to find a rock, LOL. Getting in there sure would be a lot easier with the headers off. I am taking them off anyway to paint them, maybe I will do it all at the same time tonight. Is it OK to leave the headers off overnight if the bike is sitting outside? It will be under a bike cover and there is no rain in the forecast, just wondered if dew getting in the engine would be a concern......

[trbig]

The motor will be fine with the headers off of it.. just don't fire it up that way. Stuff some rags in the ports if it makes you feel a little better.

You won't need a rock... if you have a 2x4 that's 3 or 4 feet long, just pry up on the filter cup a little bit. It's only going to take 20 or 30 pounds force wiggling a little to get that bolt out. A piece of wood isn't going to hurt any of the fins on that cup. You can also take the nut off.. tap the bolt out a bit to where you can grab it with your fingers.. then grab the alternator cover or something and pull up and wiggle just a bit while you wiggle the bolt. It will come out pretty easy... and there's no need to take the exhaust off unless you're ready to.

Tod

[yooucan2]

Thanks Tod..

I don't know what I would do without you guys!
I have plenty of work ahead of me this weekend. Install engine guards and highway pegs, paint the headers, paint the gas tank and side covers, tackle the clutch slippage problem, install new fuel lines and some inline fuel filters, and a few other odds and ends.

That reminds me....for you guys that use the inline fuel filters, which fuel lines do you have them installed on? I have not had time to really take a good look at the fuel line setup yet, but I did notice the octopus looking contraption in the mix. I bought 4 filters and they are a little bigger than I was expecting. I am not sure how exactly it is all going to fit together and if I should install them in the lines that leave the gas tank or on the lines that leave the octomess. Will I only need 2 of the filters? I bought them because there is a small amount of rust growing in the tank, but not enough to require getting the inside coated. I would like to avoid that at all costs. But I thought the fuel filters would give me some added protection. I was also wondering about replacing the fuel lines. One of them I know has a hole in it and the rest of them look very old and in need of replacement too. I think I can get to all of them but if I remember right, it looked like there were 2 that run like up underneath the carbs and I was not sure if I could get to those without removing the carbs. I would like to not remove them if not necessary. Any thoughts?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there Youcan2,

Your list of to do stuff is possibly going to get longer!?

Okay, you'll want to get some new fuel line anyways, either from a local MC shop, 1/4" ID, it's special single walled stuff, NOT anything from local auto store. Some folks have gotten lawnmower line and done okay. Now, depending on whether the Octy is working may depend on how you want to route your lines. You may need/want to check its functionality. IF it's leaking or not opening properly, you can bypass it. If you decide to keep it, then you would want to put the filters BEFORE the lines get to it, because the rear petcock spouts are the RUN/RESERVE and the front are the PRIME. The Prime lines go directly to the carbs bypassing the Octy, the other lines go to the Octy first. Either way, you could get crud in the Octy valve that could cause it to malfunction, as well as problems with the carb float valves and pilot circuits and such!

However, if you bypass the Octy, then you'll only need one set/pair of filters for the rear spouts, the front spouts can be capped off.

To test the Octy you'll need to pull the lines from the carbs...those lower ones that swoop down low....they run to the fittings between 1-2 and 3-4 carbs. Then, pull the vacuum line from the intake boot, and turn the fuel petcocks to ON and check for any drips from the fuel lines. Next, apply a vacuum to the vacuum line and the fuel should start to flow thru the lines.

You'll also need to test the petcocks, pull the hoses off of them and check for any drips when they are turned OFF. IF there are, then you may need to get some rebuild kits for the petcocks, because IF you bypass the Octy, then you'll want to be able to rely on the petcocks to shut the fuel off. IF the carbs are working properly, the float valves will shut off the fuel, but if they aren't, or have small pieces of debris/rust that gets between the valve and seat, then they can LEAK fuel, which can run out the front of the carb, and into the engine, past the valves, into the cylinders, and eventually past the rings into the oil! Easy way to ruin bearings fast!
T.C.