Problems after my first test ride.

[BlackD1114]

Ok. So here's a list of issues that I need to address.

1. I need to buy an electronic flasher to get my signals to blink due to aftermarket signal.

2. The battery drains after riding. I'm assuming the rectifier/regulator needs to be replaced. How do I check this?

3. The brake pistons tie up everytime I apply the brakes. I still need to bleed the brakes. Anything else besides bleeding to help or should that solve my problems?

4. When I get into 3rd gear, the bike sounds like something really bad is going to happen. Like I'm afraid it's going to break with all the noises it makes and it basically won't run in 3rd(mechanically because of whatever is wrong). I haven't gotten past 3rd to know if there are any problems beyond that. I need major help with this.

5. An oil leak off the front of the motor. There is some opening on the front of the motor that has a bolt in it. Oil leaks from there. Solutions?

Other than these issues, the bike seems to run strong. I really don't feel comfortable with the stock handle bars, so I'll be ordering some new ones in the very near future.

[DGXSER]

Ok. So here's a list of issues that I need to address.

1. I need to buy an electronic flasher to get my signals to blink due to aftermarket signal.

Go Fish....Don't know on this one.

2. The battery drains after riding. I'm assuming the rectifier/regulator needs to be replaced. How do I check this?

Again.....Go Fish.

3. The brake pistons tie up everytime I apply the brakes. I still need to bleed the brakes. Anything else besides bleeding to help or should that solve my problems?

Air in the line and caliper will get hot and expand as you ride and lock up the brakes. Bleeding is not an option before you ride! Do it! Learn from MY boneheaded manauver on this, I had a bike wiht a broken bleeder so instead of fixing just rode, wound up with no brakes on a steep hill approaching a crowded intersection with my light red. I was lucky and only had to play Evil Knievel over the high curb passing between cars. Don't repeat that mistake!

4. When I get into 3rd gear, the bike sounds like something really bad is going to happen. Like I'm afraid it's going to break with all the noises it makes and it basically won't run in 3rd(mechanically because of whatever is wrong). I haven't gotten past 3rd to know if there are any problems beyond that. I need major help with this.

Feels like a jackhammer or sounds like a machine gun? This calls for the Dremmel fix. Usually hits 1st or 2nd gears, but have heard of it taking out 3rd before.

5. An oil leak off the front of the motor. There is some opening on the front of the motor that has a bolt in it. Oil leaks from there. Solutions?

Cam chain adjuster? Sounds like a PO lost the plug and shoved a bolt in? Lots of ways to fix this. Do a search, you will find some.

[TopCatGr58]

Okay Black,

1) yes electronic 2 prong flasher,usually found at local auto store for ~$8-10.00, you will loose self cancelling feature.

2)Very possible that REG/RECT is fried, there have been several recent threads on checking it and the charging system. Voltmeter across the battery, at 2500 rpm should read ~14.5 volts, if only 12, probably reg/rect, just hold thin piece of iron/steel based metal...like a single feeler gauge to the outside of the ALT cover, if it sticks to the case, field coils are working. Check the 3 sets of large white connectors BEHIND The fuseblock, where the ALT plugs into the harness...corrosion common, even melting!! Be sure you have cleaned ALL of your electrical connectors...the grounds, both battery, engine to frame behind middle drive/starter, as well as grounds at Reg/Rect under tank!! Replacement REG/RECT available from GEEZER, see Parts For Sale Forum..STICKY thread...very robust unit vs. OEM!

3) You need to pull your MC down, clean out the SPOOGE HOLE, see the tech tips for this and above problem as well, all covered there!!

4) 3rd gear problem is more rare, but could be a result of bent shift forks causing 2 gears to try to engage at same time. OR...it may just be a worn set of dogs/slots on 3rd...more common with 2nd and 1st, but has been reported/found with 3rd a few times! See Tech Tips on Dremmel fix for them.

Put the bike on centerstand, start it and have rear wheel off ground, and try to go thru the gears at very low rpm without load/resistance. IF you can't get it to shift above 3rd, then could also be problems with SHIFT DRUM as well?? Need more info on what it will and won't do!?

5) Rubber plug has fallen out of cam chain tensioner housing, again many different approaches to repair..plug still available from Yamaha, but can also clean it and apply generous amounts of RTV to seal it, etc., see tech tips and search. IF you have NOT done the cam chain tensioner adjustment, PLEASE READ THOROUGHLY the tech tip on how to do it, and what NOT to do, otherwise, you can cause severe damage to the engine by having loose chain, skipping teeth, cams out of time, bending valves....need I say more!?
T.C.

[dbeardslee]

On your brakes - failure to release is often caused by a plugged spooge hole in the master cylinder. I'd make sure those are clean, 'cause if they're not you probably won't be able to bleed 'em.

TC, you type too fast. Sorry for the message from the Department of Redundency Department.

[BlackD1114]

Sounds like I'm going to have a busy weekend in front of me. I'm guessing that this will actually spil into next week. Thanks for the quick advice everyone. I'll sit the bike up first thing to check what I can with the rest of the gears and post back later.

It's a good thing my XJ650 hasn't sold yet, this way I have something to ride while I'm still wrencing on the XS11.

[BlackD1114]

I can only assume that I will be fixing third gear. Should I also go ahead and grind down the dogs and slots for first and second gear while I have everything apart? During the little bit of riding that I did, I didn't experience any problem at all with first or second. Is it inevitable that first and second will need fixed?

[DiverRay]

Read the tech tip, and do ALL three gears. 4&5 don't really need it, but the rest probably will. I would also do the "second gear washer swap", as that will help.

[CatatonicBug]

Read the tech tip, and do ALL three gears. 4&5 don't really need it, but the rest probably will. I would also do the "second gear washer swap", as that will help.

I second that. I had the same problem with third gear. Tore into the tranny, did the work on 3rd gear and put it all back together only to find that I then had a problem with 2nd as well. Do all 3 and take your time to do it right, because you won't want to have to do it again later. If you have a pneumatic die grinder, it will work a TON faster than a dremel too.

[DGXSER]

Catatonic, perhaps your gears needed alot more grinding than mine did, I caught mine pretty early. But if the grinding went to much faster than mine did, I would have lost control over how much I took off. Hate for that old carpenters axiom to apply to my gears "Cut it off twice and it is still to short".

[TopCatGr58]

Possible point of confusion?

Read the tech tip, and do ALL three gears. 4&5 don't really need it, but the rest probably will. I would also do the "second gear washer swap", as that will help.

Hey Black,

Yep, whilst in there, best to dress them all up. I don't necessarily agree with the washer swap, DiverRay is an actual MECHANIC, the washer swap provides deeper engagement of the dogs and slots for 2nd, but leaves the gear rubbing against a plain C-ring keeper, the spare washers are not as easy to come by, etc.! IMHO once the undercutting is done, the angle of the dogs and slots keeps the gears pulling together under pressure/stress and that the extra engagement depth really isn't needed, YMMV!

What Diver said above is a bit of a mistatement(only in that it might be a little confusing to a novice) in that to do 1st and 2nd, you are working on
4th and 5th gear wheels also, but only for the dogs and slots that are involved when 1st and 2nd gear are engaged. You don't need to work on the dogs and slots that are involved when 4th and 5th gear are engaged. The tech tips explain which ones are involved.
T.C.

[BlackD1114]

I fianlly got to wrench on the bike again today and I was able to get the gears dropped out. I didn't want to hassle with flipping the bike over since I have access to a motorcycle lift. The dissasembly went pretty smooth, but I do see where getting the shift forks lined back up is going to be a pain.

After inspecting all of the dogs and slots on the gears, I'm probably not going to touch first gear as it honestly looks great. The dogs on fourth that mesh with first are in great shape and the slots on first show very little wear. As for the dogs on fourth that mesh with third; that's another story. The dogs are rounded off as well as the slots on third and when I held them together only one dog would mate to a slot in third; the only way to have all three dogs make contact at the same time was to tilt either gear. That obviously won't happen when everything is assembled on the shaft.

I thought that second wouldn't need any work since it rode fine in second but with everything apart, it's very obvious that second will need fixed as well.

In all, I only spent an hour and a half getting everything apart, and that involved clearing space to get the bike on the lift and then getting it tied down first. I'm guessing that I should have all the grinding done and everything reassembeld after about 2-3 more hours of work.

I have to addmit, none of this would have gone as smoothly as did without the great information and support on this site. Thanks everyone. I'll keep everyone updated on everything as it happens.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Black,

IF you will be getting on "it" with this bike, especially in 1st, I would highly suggest that you go ahead and dress up the 1st/4th gear dogs/slots since you already have it apart and have easy access!! Remember, they are STOCK square cut, and so it doesn't take much rounding off of the dogs/slots to cause it to start skipping in/out of gear! It would be a real pain and pisser to put it all back together, and then a year later have 1st gear start skipping on you! Also, after you see and find out how much fun you will have putting countershaft and shift forks back in with it sitting up right, you'll definitely be kicking yourself for NOT doing 1st/4th!

T.C.

[DGXSER]

Having done this repair with the bike on the centerstand, I will vouch for what TC stated. Getting that countershaft back in was a real PITA. for me at least, the forks were not bad though.

I also have to agree that as long as you have the gears out, you can only help yourself by dressing up the 1st and 4th gears with the backcut. And I know I spent at least as much time as you have in it now just cleaning the bloody gasket off the engine side surface for the shift fork cover. So I know I do not want to do that again soon.

[Welsh1100]

battery draining..

2. The battery drains after riding. I'm assuming the rectifier/regulator needs to be replaced. How do I check this?

I had the same problem while on a nice ride to the top of Mount Diablo (California). It turned out to be the "lighting reserve unit" which is mounted near the center of the frame under the seat. I managed to by-pass the unit and this solved my problem. The unit is designed to send current to the other filament of the headlight if one should fail. The best solution is to replace the unit.

Ride safe...Kevin