Missing between 5 - 7K

[DenyP]

My 1100 E has some stumbling between 5 - 7K. I went through the carbs and thought I did a good job. I have aftermarket mufflers but I am running stock airbox with a foam filter. I need some advise! Do I puil the carbs and clean them again, or could it be a shorting plug wire / cap, a coil issue etc. I would appreciate any input!

Thanx

Deny

[skids]

Put in new plugs, take a plug wrench, run it up to stumbling rpms, stay at it for 5 minutes or so (maybe at a lower gear as not to go to jail) then pull in the clutch and turn off the key. Pull the plugs and take a look.

[trbig]

You could also check the wires going to your vacuum advance.

Tod

[BigDick]

Put in new plugs, take a plug wrench, run it up to stumbling rpms, stay at it for 5 minutes or so (maybe at a lower gear as not to go to jail) then pull in the clutch and turn off the key. Pull the plugs and take a look.

Not picking on you skids, cause I know this is a standard practice, but isn't this bad because the oil doesn't flow correctly and provide proper lubrication when the motor isn't running? This is something I've wondered about ever since I'd heard about doing the spark plug check.

[DGXSER]

Bigdick,

I know they say not to tow the bike for this reason, but I doubt it will hurt it to just run down from whatever speed your at, as if the bike died on you. JMHO

[trbig]

isn't this bad because the oil doesn't flow correctly and provide proper lubrication when the motor isn't running?

Why would you need lubrication if the motor isn't running?

I know they say not to tow the bike for this reason

If the bike is in neutral, nothing should be turning except the wheel, final, and middle drives. These drives have their own seperate oil reserves that don't care if the motor is running or not. If the clutches do grab and spin just a bit, they are sitting in an oil bath like they always do. There are no oil lines going to your clutches. They don't care if the motor is running or not either.

You're fine doing this check.. or towing. The only reason for NOT towing, is you are putting miles on the drives and tires.

[BigDick]

.... the lack of lubrication in the middle gear when the engine isn't running....see the info in the owner's manual regarding same!

I understand what you're saying about what if it died etc. I'm not trying to pick a fight, like I said I was just wondering about this for some time. I just checked my owner's manual and it says "Do not glide for long periods with the engine off, and do not tow the motorcycle a long distance. Even with gears in neutral, the transmission is only properly lubricated when the engine is running. Inadequate lubrication may damage the transmission."

[DenyP]

Thanks, I'll pick up a new set of plugs and give it a try.

Deny

[TopCatGr58]

No fights, just technical discussions to find the truth!

Hey Deny,

It was suggested just a few days ago to a fellow in the Phillipines, that he unplug and cap off his vacuum advance unit/hose, and then run the bike. IF the problem/miss doesn't show up, then it points to the PU coil wires, because they are not moving/flexing with the vac. adv. plugged. But when it's connected, and running, the vac. adv. plate rotates causing flexing in the PU coil wires, and if they are cracked/broken, it can cause intermittent contact when the wires flex under variable vac. loads...like at the 5-7 rpm range!?

Also, have you checked your plug wires where they connect to the plug caps for signs of corrosion, also while plug caps off, ohmeter them, should be 5-7 kohms, if more could have corrosion in the internal resistor. My bets are on the PU coil wires.

Hey Dick,

I, too, have read that warning, and I think that the flow of oil for the trans gears would be compromised for extended distances with the engine off. Even in neutral, the middle drive is spinning the middle driven gear and other gears in the tranny, and without the engine's oil pump providing pressure thru the lube circuits I think damage could ensue...remember the countershaft bearing and seal...Tod...it sits up quite a distance from the slosh/crank pan. Also, Tod, remember the damage that occured to your clutch shaft just because the thrust washer was the wrong size blocking the flow of oil around it and to the sleeve bearings for the clutch!? And this was with the engine running!

SO...yes, a simple coast to a stop from 60+mph with the engine off is one thing, but pulling/towing the bike on the rear wheel for hundreds of miles IMHO could possibly be detrimental to the tranny gears/bearings!

[renegade_xs11g]

pulling/towing the bike on the rear wheel for hundreds of miles IMHO could possibly be detrimental to the tranny gears/bearings!

"No fights, just technical discussions to find the truth"
I second that, but add 'some a little more heated than others!

the issue of the miss has been cover well,

towing/pulling: Here's the thing, the drive tires shoud be off the ground, unless engine is running, not always practical....they won't even pull/tow a semi with the drives on the ground, unless the axles are pulled out, making the rear axle, just a set of wheels

The reason stated to me was: it may drop into gear!,
Don't know how much weight that holds but, my dad ran a 'junk yard' in the front yard when I was a kid...30+ years ago...
He never towed anything with the drives on the ground, unless he pulled the drive shaft, and these were junkers!!!!!
Well, there was the Deuce & a Half, but in his defense: the tow truck was a 1967 3/4 dodge pick up,

[Ivan]

The simple answer here is to do a stoppie.

[DenyP]

Hey TC, I will give that a look! When it was sugguested to look at the vacume advance earlier, I was at a loss for relivance.

Thanx

Deny

[renegade_xs11g]

The simple answer here is to do a stoppie.

Done this more times than I can count.....
Disclaimer, it was in Grand Theft Auto: San Andreas!
I guess I just don't have the cajones that I did as a kid....scars have taken thier place!

[skids]

Not picking on you skids, cause I know this is a standard practice, but isn't this bad because the oil doesn't flow correctly and provide proper lubrication when the motor isn't running? This is something I've wondered about ever since I'd heard about doing the spark plug check.

Well, if you pull in the clutch and kill it, the only way the engine is moving is if there is some oil viscosity/ friction making the crank rotate (and it will). So if the crank rotates at all, don't you think the oil pump is pumping in porportion to the engine?

[BigDick]

Well, if you pull in the clutch and kill it, the only way the engine is moving is if there is some oil viscosity/ friction making the crank rotate (and it will). So if the crank rotates at all, don't you think the oil pump is pumping in porportion to the engine?

A smart man won't voice an opinion without all the facts. That said, I'm only smart where the hide has rubbed off. There is logic in what you're saying, but that's a awful lot of resistance, I would think the clutch would let everything stay free. You have the compression of all 4 cylinders, and the resistance of the oil pump, the cams, and the rest of the valvetrain. In any event, coasting to a stop from 60 mph or so shouldn't be a biggie (as has been stated ) but I wouldn't be doing it any more often than I could keep from it.