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  • calliper

    hello

    trying to change my break pads on the xj1100. front right calliper having problems. cant get the roand metal piece that pushes the pads back in far enough to put the pads on. any ideas. please help nice day in toronto and wanna go for a ride
    Steve Josch
    Toronto ontario
    1982 xj1100 maxim owner

  • #2
    i also dont have a clamp big enough to squeze it together. can i just hammer it down
    Steve Josch
    Toronto ontario
    1982 xj1100 maxim owner

    Comment


    • #3
      Rather than hammer it, try squeezing it with a large pair of channellocks. also take note, as you push the piston in, brake fluid will accumulate in the master cylinder. If the master has been periodically topped up as the pads wore down, you'll wind up with too much fluid in the master.

      Comment


      • #4
        would it be easier if i removed some brake fluid?
        Steve Josch
        Toronto ontario
        1982 xj1100 maxim owner

        Comment


        • #5
          cowboy,
          just open the bleeder valve on the caliper when you squeeze with the channellocks (a c-clamp works great here also but I think you mentioned you didn't have one, might be a useful acquisition as I use mine for a variety of tasks). Alternate sides as you squeeze with the channellocks as the piston can get cocked in the caliper. Careful which way the bleeder is pointed as you can end up w/ brake fluid everywhere. I usually run a pc of clear tubing from the bleeder valve to an old brake fluid container or bottle, clear so you can see if you are making any progress evacuating fluid.
          Texas Rookie - NW Houston
          79 xs11F (in process, down but not out)
          04 Ducati ST4s (current daily driver, recently retired from occasional track bike duty, too $cary to think about crashing)
          2001 Suzuki SV650 track bike (setting up for some adult fun next year)
          newest acquisition - Black on Black 78 XS11 with 81 motor waiting patiently in Cleveland Ohio (Insanity!!!...no thanks I've got plenty)

          Comment


          • #6
            I use the channel lock method on all brakes. Even on my cars. Opening the bleeder valve would work, but taking the lid off the Master Cylinder (and covering it with a towel) would allow for the fluid to escape, and you wouldn't have to bleed the system afterward. I would definitely say you need either a big C clamp or a giant set of Channel Locks. Both are invaluable when it comes to all sorts of applications. The C Clamp would probably be the cheaper way to go for now though. If that is what you do, I would suggest using a piece of wood to prevent the clamp from pressing directly onto the caliper and scratching the metal.
            Last edited by CatatonicBug; 04-10-2009, 09:28 AM.
            1980 XS850SG - Sold
            1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
            Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
            Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

            Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
            -H. Ford

            Comment


            • #7
              I use a rolled up paper towel to wick the extra fluid from the master cylinder. Watch out that it doesn't drip on any paint .
              2H7 (79)
              3H3

              "If it ain't broke, modify it"

              ☮

              Comment


              • #8
                thanks

                thanks. worked like a charm. now i have to try and blleed the brakes
                Steve Josch
                Toronto ontario
                1982 xj1100 maxim owner

                Comment


                • #9
                  If you do the bleeder valve trick then treat it like you do when bleeding the brakes, have a hose on it that goes into a container with a small amount of brake fluid in it to keep from drawing air back into the caliper.

                  If it were me, no matter how I chose to push the piston back I would use a thin block of wood on it to keep the two metal surfaces separated.
                  Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

                  When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

                  81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
                  80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


                  Previously owned
                  93 GSX600F
                  80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
                  81 XS1100 Special
                  81 CB750 C
                  80 CB750 C
                  78 XS750

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    bleeding bgrakes

                    hello, i now have to bleed my brsakes. whats the step by step instructions on this as i am having a real hard tim. first time doing this......keep it simple please as i am a bit of a moron in this area lol
                    Steve Josch
                    Toronto ontario
                    1982 xj1100 maxim owner

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Blake Bleeding for the Morons (like Me)

                      Here is how I do it step by step;

                      1. Get a box end wrench or line wrench that fits the bleeder valve (Note, typically do not use an open end wrench as it tends to strip the bleeder valve) and put it on the bleeder.

                      2. Get a length of clear plastic hose about 2-3 feet long. 1/4" I think is what you need, must be a tight fit over the bleeder. put it on.

                      3. Get a small container of some kind and put a small amount of brake fluid into it, enough to completely emerse the other end of the tube in step 2. This will keep you from drawing air onto the line.

                      4. remove the cover form the master and top of the fluid to the top of the rim. You'll use it when you bleed and you do not want to get air into the master.

                      5. Squeeze the brake lever, pump it if needed, to get pressure on the brakes. While holdin the lever and keeping pressure, open the bleeder and let the air/ fluid out until the brake lever is close to end of travel. Close the bleeder back up before you run out of travel.

                      6. Repeat step five until no air comes out the bleeder and you have a firm brake on the first squeeze.

                      Others methods may and will vary. HTH
                      Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

                      When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

                      81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
                      80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


                      Previously owned
                      93 GSX600F
                      80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
                      81 XS1100 Special
                      81 CB750 C
                      80 CB750 C
                      78 XS750

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by DGXSER View Post
                        Here is how I do it step by step;

                        1. Get a box end wrench or line wrench that fits the bleeder valve (Note, typically do not use an open end wrench as it tends to strip the bleeder valve) and put it on the bleeder.

                        2. Get a length of clear plastic hose about 2-3 feet long. 1/4" I think is what you need, must be a tight fit over the bleeder. put it on.

                        3. Get a small container of some kind and put a small amount of brake fluid into it, enough to completely emerse the other end of the tube in step 2. This will keep you from drawing air onto the line.

                        4. remove the cover form the master and top of the fluid to the top of the rim. You'll use it when you bleed and you do not want to get air into the master.

                        5. Squeeze the brake lever, pump it if needed, to get pressure on the brakes. While holdin the lever and keeping pressure, open the bleeder and let the air/ fluid out until the brake lever is close to end of travel. Close the bleeder back up before you run out of travel.

                        6. Repeat step five until no air comes out the bleeder and you have a firm brake on the first squeeze.

                        Others methods may and will vary. HTH
                        I have found that air can get trapped in the banjo bolt securing the line to the M/C, and on my bike, that is the highest point in the system, so I remove the M/C from the bars, keeping the cover on naturally, and with the help of an assistant, rotate the M/C 90 degrees with the hose at the bottom. Now use a C clamp, or your favorite method of collapsing the caliper piston, to compress one caliper. That will chase the air bubble back into the reservior, and out of the system. It only makes sense that air will rise to the highest point, so why try to force it down to the caliper? It will only rise back to the top of the line when you stop squeezing the brake lever.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by cowboy5 View Post
                          hello, i now have to bleed my brsakes. whats the step by step instructions on this as i am having a real hard tim. first time doing this......keep it simple please as i am a bit of a moron in this area lol
                          Hi Steve,
                          Did you get the brakes sorted? I have all the tools for that job if you need a hand.
                          Phil
                          1981 XS1100 H Venturer ( Addie)
                          1983 XJ 650 Maxim
                          2004 Kawasaki Concours. ( Black Bear)

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