Vetter Headlight

[cruiser]

The Vetter Windjammer V headlight I have is a H4 55W60 halogen capsule bulb. I know this same bulb is available in 80W100 and wonder if anyone has used it to obtain stronger lighting?
I have two concerns. Additional heat and additional amp draw. Mine is an XJ which has all OEM lighting but is a stronger charging system than the XS.

[wa407mpp]

I say go for it.

I have used a 100wX55w halogen bulb, available at most auto parts stores, for the last 15 years with no problems, the nice thing about them is you only need the high beam at highway speeds so you chances of being stopped by the in town police for too bright a light is reduced, of course with the new bikes their bulbs are so bright no one will notice yours anyway. Heat build up might be a problem, so you may need to vent the headlight housing a little. I did this on my Venturer fairing by drilling vent holes on the side of the light housing behind the ring, then made a PVC duct from the back of the housing and out the back of the fairing. I did this because the guy who told me about this conversion said when he converted his GoldWing he had problems with the plug at the back of the bulb melting over time and always having to replace it, you may want to go to a heavier duty plug, also available at most auto parts stores. This is one of my favorite modifications I done to my bike and the amount of light it puts out is well worth the little work involved, one of my favorite times to ride is at night, and this gives you as much or more light then two driving lights with less then half the amp draw,because you are only running 100w compaired to 65w for the headlight and 55x2 for the two driving lights.

[wa407mpp]

One thing I forgot to say is that your will need to run a separate heavy duty 30amp. fuse holder for the headlight. Your stock fuse holder or the one T.C. sells over time will melt, sorry T.C. it's a good fuse holder, but won't stand up for this kind of load.

[Crazcnuk]

Check out the HID conversion kits. They sell them on Ebay for about $50-60.

The HID draws 35watts hi or lo beam, and produces 300% more light than Halogen bulbs.

[cruiser]

The motorcycle HID Xenon conversion kits seem like a good idea with less heat, less current draw and more light. However looking at ebay products they say not DOT approved for street use????????

Am I looking at the right items?

[webbcraft2150]

I have been running a 80/120 in my Vetter headlight for years with no problems and no mods to the wiring or fuses. Definant visual improvement and a sure bet you will win most high beam wars with oncoming drivers. The Vetter headlight is real old school running a fresnel style lens. I am currently checking out newer "clear cut" headlight replacements 'cause they work much better. If you look at newer cars and bikes, the headlights have clear non fluted lens and the reflectors have the flutes. My bro-in-laws late model HD has a 5" headlight with the clear lens and it beats my Vetter hands down in light output (the only thing the HD beats the XS in). Once I figure out which one will fit right and get it installed, I will report back here if it really does work.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Webb,

I'm pretty sure it was BNE's MadMaxim's fairing that was a Vetter, and we were able to get just a standard 7" round auto headlight to fit into the housing/holder that then fits into the fairing!

MikesXS sells the Round Clear Lens conversion. I got one for my machine several years ago from JCW's car section, bought a pair cause that's how they came, but got the one with the accent green ring around the headlight to match the aux lights I had as well, also with green accent rings!
It's not a great photo, but you get the idea!


As for the replacment fuse block....the OEM block uses a 10Amp for the headlight circuit. At stock 65 watts, that's a shade over 6 amps, so the fuse is rated about twice the circuit draw. So...for a 100 watt bulb I would think that a 20 Amp fuse would be more than ample, and safer, the 30Amp would allow way more current flow thru the 10 amp wires before blowing, and I think could lead to excessive heat/melting failure of the insulation if a 30 amp fuse was used. And the replacement fuse block can handle 20 amp fuses just fine! JMHO!
T.C.

[wa407mpp]

I was referring to the amp rating of the fuse holder not the amp rating of the fuse. And no it couldn't handle the load. Also the pattern of a car headlight lens is different then the pattern of a motorcycle lens because cars don't lean into turns, if you use a car lens on a motorcycle you will have blind spots in the turns, not a good thing.

[Crazcnuk]

The HIDs are not legal in all areas, however, many of the high end cars are now coming with HID headlights from he factory, so it really depends on the men in monkey suits in your area.

[oseaghdha]

Hey Webb,

I'm pretty sure it was BNE's MadMaxim's fairing that was a Vetter, and we were able to get just a standard 7" round auto headlight to fit into the housing/holder that then fits into the fairing!

.......................................
T.C.

That's what I have right now. I don't do much night riding because really sux big time. I axed Craig Vetter about it, and he said that's how he designed it.

If I want to put an H4 halogen in , I have to punch out the back because it's not deep enough to accomodate the plug. If I do that, there shouldn't be any venting problems.

The Fleabay HIDs use an electromechanical shade for hi/lo. Not sure that's the way I want to go. Moving parts on a headlight? No thanks.

I've been looking at Hella, they have some possiblities.

[wa407mpp]

I run a Vetter fairing now and didn't have any problems fitting the 100x55w bulb in the housing and so far had no heating problems, without venting the housing. The reason I vented the Venturer housing was, because the light housing is totally enclosed with no fresh air movement around the housing, like the older GoldWings. I think the main reason people don't ride at night is because they can't see and don't feel comfortable riding after dark, but sometimes you get delayed and end up getting home late and with a good light it can take a lot of stress out of the experience.

[Crazcnuk]

"The Fleabay HIDs use an electromechanical shade for hi/lo"

It's a solonoid, and it'a how all HIDs do hi/lo. Thre are no filaments in an HID bulb, so no way to do hi/lo unless you want two sets of lights.

Fun part of HID is that there is no filamant to wear out, or vibrate or any of the usual issues.

Oh, and your freinds will insist you ride in front, at night. JAMHIK.

I find that the white highway signs almost blind me as I go by them...

[TopCatGr58]

65 amp max for all branches

.250" male blade (side blade insertion)

Mounting holes - center to center 3.35-in (85mm)

Mounting hole diameter 7/32-in (5.5mm)

Hey Wa,

I knew you meant the fuseblock, but that was why I also posted about was a 30 AMP fuse really necessary for the stronger bulb vs. just going up to a 20 vs. the OEM 10!? The Fuseblock should be able handle an extra 20 amp!?

These are the specs from the manufacturer of the fuseblock. I'm not an electrician or electrical engineer. I understand that with 6 fuse slots that this limit would mean 5 fuses of 10 amps, and 1 of 15 amps to be max with all 6 slots filled!

Aside from the MAIN fuse, our bikes use 4 fused circuits, Ign, Head, Turn, Brake, at 10, 10, 20, 10 amps, total of 50. Changing the Head to a 20 takes the total to 60 amps, leaving 2 slots blank. If you use one for the AUX terminals, that could take it up to 70 amps.

I think I've heard of a few folks who have actually wired the MAIN 30 amp thru this fuseblock without any problems, meltdowns or fires. I understand about a certain amount of electricity running thru a circuit would create some heat due to resistance, but EACH fuse circuit is separate in this fuseblock.

So....perhaps some electrical GURU could explain why there would be this 65 amps total limit on the design of the fuseblock!?
T.C.

[wa407mpp]

You can't compare stock amp estimates with modified estimates. you won't get accurate results. Anytime you modify something the stock estimates are worthless.

[DiverRay]

So....perhaps some electrical GURU could explain why there would be this 65 amps total limit on the design of the fuseblock!?
T.C.

The feed "line" to the fuse block would be the limit. The 65 Amp should be NO PROBLEM on a motorcycle with a 30 Amp charging system! Add up the stock fuse ratings, 30 A main, 10, 10, and 20. Very close to the 65 of the "block". If you have the "main" as a separate fuse, you have plenty of "room".