Replacing the clutch actuator shaft oil seal

[XSPastor]

Hello all. I've got a trickle of oil coming from the weep hole at the bottom of the clutch cover. Looks like it's leaking around the clutch actuator shaft. I haven't pulled it apart since I rebuilt the clutch over the winter. Guess I should've replaced that seal then. I also noticed that there's supposed to be an o-ring on the shaft itself; I don't remember even seeing that while I was in there so that may not even be there. Has anyone out there done this? Will I need to pull the side cover to replace that seal? Is it pretty straight forward - like pull out the old seal and use a socket of the right diameter to drive in the new one? I'm pretty sure the o-ring is inside the side cover and I'll have to pull the cover to get to that anyway. Is that correct? I just don't quite remember the anatomy of that area and none of the manuals I have (Yamaha or Clymers) show that particular thing.

[Ivan]

I think there is an oring on the adjustment screw, could that be what you are thinking of?

[XSPastor]

Yeah, that's the ticket...

Yeah, it's on the adjustment screw. I can't remember if you can get that screw out without removing the side cover. Of course, the other seal is pressed into the crankcase cover itself... I guess I should say crankcase cover instead of side cover so people don't get confused!

[trbig]

The problem with loosening that too much is that it may let the little ball bearings on the back side drop out. If you have been in that clutch cover recently, the gasket will probably survive you taking it back off. If you lean the bike on the sidestand, you won't even have to drain your oil to take the cover off.


Tod

[XSPastor]

Thanks, Tod. I've got the parts on order including the gasket just in case mine doesn't survive. Have you ever replaced the adjusting screw seal that I assume is pressed in to the crankcase cover? If yes, do you have any advice about how to do it?

[Ivan]

Back when I was wrenching on cars, the trick I used to replace crank seals, the one piece kind anyway, was to drive a small sheet metal screw through the seal between the lip and the outer diameter. This would serve as a place to pry against with a pry bar, or use channel locks. Occationally a slide hammer would work if there was room. Most if the time it took two or three shots, but it always worked to get the seal out. A smear of silicone around the out side and an appropriately sized piece of pipe made the reinstall nearly flawless.

IIRC, the little seal on the clutch adjuster sits outside a ball bearing, so you'd need to be careful not to drive the screw into the bearing, but I am guessing with a bit of finesse, that seal could be replaced without removing the cover, or even adjusting the clutch. As for the oring on the screw, you may be able to back it out a ways and use some teflon paste on that in lieu of replacing the oring, which I think would require removing the cover. IIRC the screw has to be driven out through the engine side of the assembly.

Good luck with your repair.

[trbig]

OK.. Just took a spare one apart. As stated, when you loosen that nut that holds the adjuster screw, the little ball bearings will fall out of the back side of the assembly. But on the outside of the clutch housing where that nut is.. when you take it off, you'll have a washer, then the clutch arm, and the seal is right there on the outside of the case under the little clutch arm. The part number for it is 93104-14059-00 and looks like it's still available from Yamaha for 4 or 5 bucks.


Just a side note... Almost all my side covers, (Shifter, clutch, oil pan) are put on gasket-less using only Yamabond/Tribond sealer that you put between the two case halves. It didn't work very well for the valve cover.. but I couldn't get it onto the head without bumbing it against things on installation. A lot cheaper than gaskets that still sometimes leak.

Tod

[Ivan]

+1 on the gasket in a tube. It doesn't have porosity like paper, and doesn't shred under heat expansion as paper quite often does. I use the "Ultra Grey" kind since it nearly matches the color of my engine. Also, if the surfaces are nice and machined without a bunch of pits, Permatex Anerobic Sealer (used to be 518) works even better than gasket in a tube.

If you are in a hurry, there is "The Right Stuff" from permatex which is pricey, but will seal through a film of oil and is road ready by the time you get the bolts tight. Tod, I had the same trouble with my valve cover, and bumping it against stuff. Next time I am going to use "The Right Stuff", but put it on the head and lay the cover on top of it. Hopefully it will get rid of that annoying seep on the front of the engine.

I am not sure that there is enough room in the engine for the clutch adjuster balls to fall out with the cover in place. Of course, if you have the extra steel in the clutch pack that could make a difference. But I agree with Tod, probably better to be safe than sorry.

[XSPastor]

Thanks, Everyone!

I'll let you know how it goes...