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  • #16
    That's what she looks like.

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    • #17
      Hey Badboy,

      You may have already drained the old oil and put in new, so I wouldn't want you to waste new oil. You could either drain the new oil IF you already put new in, and then refill with some cheap stuff, and then add some Marvel Mystery Oil to the oil, fire it up, run it WITHOUT putting any kind of load/strain on the engine, get it up to operating temps, about 5 -10 minutes of idling, then turn it off let it sit a while, few hours, then fire it up, and try working the clutch and such. MMO can help break down varnish and gum without having to tear into it. Once you get it loosened up and it will shift thru the gears, then shut it down, drain the MMO/OIL and put in the good stuff. Then you can run it, ride it etc.!

      However, if you are not averse to going into the engine/clutch, then that would be good also, because most likely you will want to put in NEW clutch springs anyways. They get SPRUNG being under compression for so many years, and will not provide as much tension, and you can then experience slipping under load in the higher gears!

      Also, you'll be able to inspect the plates, clean/emory cloth the steels, and scrub/buff the frictions to remove the varnish or glaze, and then put it all back together. Read thru the tech tips, the extra steel clutch plate tip as well as the 1st/2nd gear tranny fix for pictures of the clutch, star plate and warnings about reassembly, etc.!

      As was stated, with slight rotation of the rear wheel, you should be able to shift the gears when the engine is not running to get it to go thru all of the gears. However, if the shifter won't move anything in the tranny, then there could be other problems. Folks have reported damage to the shift drum pins and plate, plate bends, pins fall out, and there's nothing for the shift pawl to grab as the shift drum gets rotated while going thru the gears. Once you've tried to shift thru the gears while rotating the rear wheel, and IF it does then shift up to the other gears, then you can rule out the shift drum/pins as a contributing factor.
      T.C.
      T. C. Gresham
      81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
      79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
      History shows again and again,
      How nature points out the folly of men!

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      • #18
        Ps

        The XJ engine is very similar to the XS's, just the addition of the YICS plumbing in the head, the brushed alternator, but the basic mechanics of the engine are the same. There have been links recently posted for online manuals, as well as in the LINKS forum, look around, should find several sources.
        T.C.
        T. C. Gresham
        81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
        79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
        History shows again and again,
        How nature points out the folly of men!

        Comment


        • #19
          Manuals can be found on Ebay pretty regularly, but many people have them on .PDF file format. I can email you a copy, but most free email servers (Yahoo, MSN, AOL, etc...) have a size limit of 10mb per file sent, and this file is somewhere between 12-14mb. The only free email I have seen that will let you send stuff that size is Googles Gmail (Gmail.com). If you have, or want to set up a quick account there, just let me know what your address is in a PM and I'll get a copy sent to you.


          Tod
          Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.

          You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!

          Current bikes:
          '06 Suzuki DR650
          *'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
          '82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
          '82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
          '82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
          '82 XJ1100 Parts bike
          '81 XS1100 Special
          '81 YZ250
          '80 XS850 Special
          '80 XR100
          *Crashed/Totalled, still own

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