Frustration sets in.....

[planedick]

Bought a set of new stock hardly mufflers on flea-bay for $10. Price was right and I thought a few trials would be enough to get it jetted right. Started with mains up one notch, 137.5 to 140. Pretty good from 3500 to 6000, but then stumbled at WOT, and low end was weak. Then I changed the idle jet from 137.5 to 140. Terrible rich and would foul plugs right away, but 6500 to 9000 was really exciting. Next I added pilot air jets from 180 to 210 with only slight improvement, but still stumbling at 6000 and still fouling plugs. Going back to stock pilot jets and pilot air jets tomorrow.

Has anyone here any ideas? I thought that some time ago I heard someone else talk about putting those hardly mufflers on their machine. I guess I should have known that hardly mufflers, or anything hardly would certainly slow it down.

[DiverRay]

Go back to the 140 mains, and raise the float by 1mm. If the floats are at 27, go to 26. That should help with the WOT, and you can turn out the idle mixture screws an extra turn to take care of the low RPM.
No guarantee, but it should be closer.

[81xsproject]

There's nothing you can do. It is just your bike rejecting the Hardly parts

[thewiz]

Awww, c'mon ..

you like taking the carbs off and on, don't ya'? Try changing the pilots to the 45s from the 42.5s since that's what I think you have in there now .....

[renegade_xs11g]

Hardley Parts....

I've had hardley mufflers on mine for a little over 2 summers now, runs great with stock sized mains and pilots....YMMV

But, THE MONSTER has had a couple of rejections to the HD muffs, tossed them off, cracked the weld on one, luckily I used the mount straps

[webbcraft2150]

I know you already have alot of time and a bit of money invested in trying to get the Hardly Ableson mufflers to work but lemme throw an idea at you that worked for me. I bought two, EMGO extra long mufflers from JCW (Dennis Kirk #431286). They look pretty close to stock. I had to cut the crossover off (rusted away anyway) and get a couple of reducers from Pep Boys. Minor modifications made to the OEM brackets, fabed a new center stand stop and some judicous grinding of the bottome of the rear brake pedal and I had a new set of OEM lookalikes. To date, no carb work needed and I noticed no decrease in power, flat spots or poor idle quality. After a few months I did drill 5 holes in the end of each one. Deeper exhaust note and (maybe just percieved) a little more punch from 5k up. Now, if you get the shorter ones, they will stop in front of the rear axle bolt, making wheel removal a little easier. (I have factory hard bags so there is no easy way to remove the rear wheel)

[planedick]

That's it...

Diver Ray had it right. I did get lots of practice taking out and putting in those carbs. 9 times and three times removing the slides and moving the needle position. Ended up everything stock except for the 140 mains and raising the float as much as I could. Still a little weak below 3500, but it always was, but now it really wakes up at 3500 and the afterburners kick in at 6500. I got so I can remove those carbs in minutes and install them nearly as quick. The thing I learned was that the biggest problem was I wasn't properly setting the idle mixture and synchronizing for each test. And I'm the one preaching the value of a good synch.... Go figure....