Por-15

[figman]

Recently picked up a 1978 XS 1100. Runs good for about 2 miles and then starts misfiring and usually the cylinders on the right side quit of the left. Tank has much rust and I have a POR-15 tank kit and was thinking about using it to clean and line the tank. Has anyone used this product before and what is your opinion of it? I'm thinking there is enough rust and debris in the tank to cause starvation of fuel which causes the misfire. What other areas should I check? (electrical etc.) Any advice would be appreciated.

[crazy steve]

I've never used their tank kit, but their other products work as advertised.

A trick I heard about for cleaning rusty tanks (and the guy swore it worked great) is to go to K-Mart and get a couple of bottles of 'The Works' toilet cleaner and dump them in the tank. Add warm water to fill, then let it sit for an hour (sloshing the tank every 10-15 minutes). Drain, flush out with more warm water, and dry with a hair dryer. If it isn't leaking, 'fog' it with WD-40. Should be ready to go. If you need to coat it for leaks, skip the WD-40 and coat.

'78E original owner

[81xsproject]

Unless your tank is SO bad that it is getting thin, don't coat it. There are several methods for removing rust. You can get some phosphoric acid at the hardware store or use electrolosis. Then, all you need to do is keep the tank full of fuel and you will never have rust problems again.

[rman]

Por 15

I have used the POR 15 tank kit. I used it at the beginning of last season. I was impressed on how well it cleaned up the tank. So far no problems with it and I would give it a tripple snap in Z formation.

[greatnw]

My POR 15 kit is sitting in the house warming up so I can do my tank. I used the muriatic acid and nuts in the tank to get rid of the rust. It actually worked quite well. Unfortunately there was more rust than I thought and it exposed several pinhole leaks. I soldered them up and probably would be good. But I'm going to coat just to have a margin of safety against thinning along the bottom of the tank.
I agree with the advice of cleaning first and only coating if you need it. Clean with gas will be just fine.
I'm a big fan of inline fuel filters escpecially if you have had rust in the tank.
Good luck!

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Figman,

Several years (9) ago when I rebuilt my old 81SH, I cleaned my tank, and then used some liner/sealer I got from JCW, for slightly rusty tanks. I found it in the CAR parts section, not the bike parts. However, IIRC, it stated that it wasn't for use with ALCOHOL, yet most fuels now have at least 10% ALCOHOL in them, but it's still held up just fine, along with SeaFoam and such! Has worked for many years. I recently swapped an XJ tank onto it, and used it again to coat that one. Since it's designed to seal tanks with mild rust, it doesn't have to be completely rust free. However, after reading other comments here, I don't think that sealing it was really necessary.

I would suggest you remove the petcocks and inspect the filter towers. They are probably clogged up with rust and gunk. You can drain the tank much better with them off while you're doing the cleaning/derusting process. You should also take apart the petcock valves to inspect and clean, probably lots of crud in the passages there as well which are easily clogged with just a little more crud from the tank!!

IF the tank isn't cleaned EXACTLY per the POR directions and rust free, folksl have commented about the sealant pealing loose!! YMMV!
T.C.

[jetmechmarty]

Electrolysis

Electrolysis is probably the best method and does the least damage. It works!

See if this helps:
http://650rider.com/index.php?name=F...ewtopic&t=1547

You my also find the instructions on this site.

[greatnw]

I really like that method!
My only worry would be electrocuting myself.

[figman]

This forum is very helpful and by using the "search" option I see that I have several options repairing the tank. I am draining the tank now and will evaluate the tank and then decide which method will be the best for me. I do have access to the oven in the finishing department where I am employed and may go with the por-15 (since I have already purchased for $30) Thanks to everyone for their input.

[greg maz]

did por15 on abandoned bike, it's a pleasure to see the new metallic coating each time I open the tank

just one thing I feel secure about the bike now, plus turned out to be fun and easy to take care that big piece

[cywelchjr]

I really like that method!
My only worry would be electrocuting myself.

The 12v used in the examples I have seen will NOT harm you. It takes 31 volts to overcome the resistance of the human body.

[greg maz]

it exposed several pinhole leaks. I soldered them up and probably would be good

Do not ever solder a tank, especially if leaking.

It goes boom from vapors even with carefully drained tank.

read about one guy that unroofed his garage, lived, and spend months of skin scrubbing at hospital

[cywelchjr]

Do not ever solder a tank, especially if leaking.

It goes boom from vapors even with carefully drained tank.

read about one guy that unroofed his garage, lived, and spend months of skin scrubbing at hospital

That is just so not true. While you can get a boom from a tank if the right conditions exist, its a matter of making sure there are NO vapor buildup issues. One way would be to wash out the inside of the tank with soap and water before working on it, another is to fill it with inert gas. Many radiator shops work on gas tanks, they boil them out (which removes any trace of gasoline and paint) and then work on them. The idea is to completely avoid any vapors. To get an exposion would require getting a PERFECT (or very near) fuel air mixture. Myth busters TRIED to get a gas tank to explode, and showed that it's almost impossible to accomplish.

These urban legends just keep going around and when a careful search is done no verifiable instance can be found.

[greg maz]

if u wash and boil your tank then ok

if you just drained it, that ain't no myth, heat from welding creates more vapor and sparks do the rest

I mean if you don't mind, you don't mind

[jetmechmarty]

electrolysis again

Try this link:

http://twinoak.altelco.net/~jacil/cl...ElecSetup.html

Ken French's Electrolysis Setup:
Back to Clay's Motorcycle page

Ken's Setup


Tried out electrolysis on my rust fuel tank and she cleaned right up. For those of you who are on a budget it will cost you next to nothing to clean your tank. First of all you will need a plastic 5 gallon bucket, add 1/2 cup of Arm and Hammer Washing Soda. This is important it’s Washing Soda not baking soda (see note 1 below). Fill the bucket with water and mix it well. Pull the tank and drain the fuel. Remove the petcock and wash out the tank with lots of water. Fashion a cover to block the petcock orifice. I used a strip of 1/8" aluminum and used an old inner tube as a gasket. I set the tank on a piece of carpet and blocked it up to get it as level as possible. I then filled the tank with the washing soda solution. Then I took a coat hanger and fashion the sacrificial anode. You say what???? Ok this is the trickiest part of the procedure.
A little background on how electrolysis works (see actual photos below):
Its very simple really. As current passes through an object it moves from negative to positive, so what you are doing is passing a current through the rust on the tank, which breaks its bond, and the rust then flows and attaches itself to the positive charge on the sacrificial anode. Or at least it releases the rust from the tank and floats around in the washing soda solution. The idea with the sacrificial anode is to insure that it does not touch the tank anywhere, you must insure it only come in contact with the washing soda solution or you will have a direct short.
For my project I found a nice little plastic cap and drilled two 1/8" holes in it about 1" apart. I then took the coat hanger and bent it over and over until I had four loops on one end that spread about 1" when grouped together (see fig. 1 below). Think about the business end of a fork that you eat with, that’s what it should look like. Then about 4" back from the business end of the fork make a 90-degree bend in the two wires and run them up through the plastic cap. Put the sacrificial anode into the tank and spin it around to insure the anode is not hitting anywhere on the tank (no short circuits) (see fig 2 below). Then using a 12-volt battery charger hook the positive lead to the sacrificial anode and the negative lead to the fuel tank. I used the mounting flange that sits under the seat (see figs 3 and 4 below). Let her cook for several days. Mine took three days. I pulled the anode twice a day and cleaned it with a wire brush. I have a small battery charger so it may take less time with a larger charger. Anyway my tank is back on and this morning I rode her into work and she never skipped a beat.

Update: Some of you have asked what did you coat the tank with to stop further rusting? Nothing. Its bare metal. Some of you guys have suggested two ways of coating the tank. 1. Use phosphoric acid and slosh it around to coat the tank. 2. Use POR-15, I have heard this is the stuff to use. I was also told to stay away from Kreem. The Suzuki T-500 I own had a fuel tank coated in Kreem and it is crap, so I would agree.

-Ken for questions, email me at cfsboy@sbcglobal.net


Note 1: ARM & HAMMER® Super Washing Soda is 100% sodium carbonate and is used as a laundry booster and general household cleaner. ARM & HAMMER® Baking Soda is 100% sodium bicarbonate and has a myriad of household cleaning, personal care, and deodorizing uses, as well as being a leavening agent.

Note from Clay: The photos are mine. I used this method on rather rusty Kawasaki tank I had, and it worked wonderfully. I lined this tank with the Yamaha brand tank rusr remover/protector (about $14.00 at my local dealer) and it is holding up well.

the probe- a coat hanger probe in tank
Figure 1 Figure 2



side view Top view
Figure 3 Figure 4