Progressive or not?

[DGXSER]

No, I am not considering switching my insurance.

Was wondering if there is a way to tell if the PO had put progressive springs in. I had no air pressure in the front forks, and a busted up air valve, so I am wondering of one of the PO's down the line had put in the springs. If not I am considering it, but would be annoying to pull out springs that were identical to what I bought.

[bikerphil]

Should be able to tell by looking at the type of winding (progressive or regular) and by their length. Oh, and progressive is also a type of spring winding, not just the brand name of the springs.

[Rasputin]

There is quite a difference between stock and progressive on my 79 special. The stock ones were pretty evenly spaced coils except for tightening up a small amount at one end. The progressives had many more tightly wound coils at one end as well as a few at the other end. The stock ones I have here are 24 inches long. I do not know the length of the progressives as they are in the bike. I had to use the 3 1/2" poly spacer for the progressives as well and the stock units did not have that. I could get a pic of my old stock ones for you if you need it.

[DGXSER]

Not right away at least, I was REALLY hoping there was some way to determine WITHOUT pulling the springs out. Once again, wishful thinking.

I have new-to-me rotors coming so I will have some of the work done to pull the front end apart. Seems I would have to pull the handlebars to get the springs out. Then there is the trick of getting them back in.

What got me thinking about this is that I finally got to ride in some warm weather, over 60 degrees last night, and my front end was a bit noisy. Like when you push down on the front, I can hear the springs creak a bit. So planning to change fork oil. Just thinking out the spring issue.

[John]

An easy trick to starting and tightening the fork caps is to use a 2x2 by what ever length is comfortable, (but I made mine about 10 inches) piece of wood. Cut a notch in the end of the 2x2 that will clear over the air valve and press down on the fork cap to compress the spring. So easy to square the cap up to the threads, and start them. Works like a nut driver. Piece of cake, really.

[DGXSER]

Wood is something I can do. Have a nice wood working shop, so that will be easy. Thanks for the tip John! I will give them a check when I get the rotors in and tear the front end down.

[skids]

You will want to block the front of the bike up before you release the caps. Otherwise, the springs pop up, the forks just collapse, and as a result it can fall off the center stand or side stand. I almost had a domino efffect in my garage once with the other three bikes that were parked in parallel. THAT would have sucked, but my neighbor friend caught the bike from tipping over.

[Steptoe]

springs

dgxser, had the same problem with mine forever ago,up until reading this post had completely forgotten about it.
I couldn,t afford new springs, so pumped old oil out, put new engine oil down them,that the last of the prob. made the ride far more cushioned,
can,t think when it was even, just thinking probably should drain them again though

[b.walker5]

Progressives on a Special should have a spacer on the top of the springs and you should be able to confirm that by just removing the fork caps (with the front blocked up off the ground of course)

[DGXSER]

Maybe All State??

Well, they are not progressive springs. And I concluded that the PO only liked to change one forks oil per at a time. The left side fork oil was jet black and not near as much as the right side. Nothing more came out when I pumped the fork on the left either. Right side oil looked fairly fresh by comparison, much more of it, and pumped out. But on the good side, they both were holding air.

I also learned that it is a major PITA to get the new oil in. Ony way I got it to work was to pull the caps off. Those air holes are just to small for any amount of oil to go through before it pours down the triple tree and frame. Did not plan ahead to do it so no notched 2X2, just hand pressure and turn it.

Also got my new to me rotors installed. No more pogo stick when I use my front brakes! Now I just have to get those pads to wear into the used rotors. How tight do you tighten the bolt that holds the rotor in? Do you only tighten the nut on top and leave the bolt so it can pivot? I have a Clymers but my wife is laid off and started cleaning. Can't find a dang thing now.

[bikerphil]

Rotor to wheel torque: 15 ft/lbs
Caliper bolt torque: 18 ft/lbs. Tighten the top nut to the same while holding lower bolt.
Castle nut torque: 77 ft/lbs
Pinch bolt: 14.5 ft/lbs

[DGXSER]

Thanks Phil!!

[DenyP]

I am real glad I don't have to worrie about this with a Standard XS 1100 E. I would be real happy with a solution to it's rough ride, but this doesn't look like the remidy.

Deny

[jetmechmarty]

Is anyone here running fork emulators on their XS11? I've heard they make progressive springs seem "stone age".
http://www.racetech.com/evalving/eng...ngname=english

www.traxxion.com fur custom straight rate springs.

[latexeses]

Dang, Jet.

A grand for forks? Another Buck Fifty for installation?
Do you have these on your bike? Congrats if you do.

I'm afraid those will be a possibility after I pick all six in the lottery.