More Turn Signals.

[T1ny]

Last year all was working correctly, this spring this started. When I first turn on a signal (either left or right) it will blink as expected for 10 seconds, when it will just stay on solid from that point on.

Oh, I should also point out, even if I turn the blinker off, then flick again it will just stay on solid until it's been off for a while.

Any ideas?

[beechfront]

if you speed the engine up does it start blinking again?

[Snow]

Almost sounds like not enough juice - are you running the bike while testing the blinkers?

[Jerry]

Three suspects:

1. Low voltage or curent as noted in previous posts
2. Defective flasher unit
3. Defective bulb

For 1, check with engine running at about 2,500 RPM or better; that is the point where the bike's alternator starts to exced output from the battery.

For 2, get a $2.00 2-prong 12 volt flasher from Target, WalMart, or your favorite auto parts store. Looking at the bike-side flasher connector, plug the two prongs of the new flasher in the center and right hand slot. (Connector shaped like a "U" with open part toward ground.) You can't hurt anything if you plug it in wrong, try both ways if necessary. Note: this flasher does not have the auto-cancel feature of the original Yamaha flasher, so if you use it you will need to cancel turn signals manually.

3 is a bit harder to determine. I had a bulb that had a broken filament, and when it got hot the top filament sagged onto the bottom one, causing a similar problem. Only way I found it was to take of the turn lenses, ran the turn signals until the problem occured, then visually examined the bulbs. Saw the sagging filament, swapped bulbs, problem fixed. Easier to just swap in new bulbs, though. Pick up a pair of 1157s and 1156s for front and rear, couple bucks will cover all 4.

[T1ny]

Thanks for the ideas, I'll pickup new bulbs and a flasher after work and give those a shot. Since the flasher doesn't auto cancel anyway I won't notice a difference.

[sam_cg_cook]

Similar Problem...

I have a problem along these lines as well... My signals light solid at idle, but work fine with a steady throttle or while riding. Self-cancelling unit is also highly questionable... seems to work or not work when it feels like it.

Any help appreciated.

[Ken Talbot]

This is the classic sign of dirty or loose electrical connections. The flashers will work at idle if everything is clean and tight. Start with the battery, work your way to each end and corner and unplug, clean, and refasten every last connector. Finish up with cleaning the internals of the switch itself. Yes, it is tedious, but you're dealing with stuff that probably hasn't been looked at for 20 years....

[Jerry]

An option is to go with solid-state (electronic) flashers. These are available at most auto parts places, cost in my area (Checker, AutoZone) is about $10.00. Claim to fame is they require less current to operate.

Ken Talbot is right....slow or non-flashing signals at idle is a common problem. Start your check at the battery ground cable. Clean everything; a can of contact cleaner will set you back about $8.00 but is worth it. I use emery boards (sold for fingernail manicures) and ignition point files to clean connectors in addition to the contact cleaner. If you have a Dremmel tool, pick up a few of the small wire brushes; these can be used on some connections. Another sometimes-useful item is small sections of 400 grit emery paper.

Once you have the connectors cleaned you may want to pack them with dielectric grease. This is sold in small packets at auto parts stores, sometimes labeled as 'tail light' grease, as Ford and others now use it for that purpose. This will help keep corrosion to a minimum in hard to reach connectors. Price is around $.70 per packet, figure 2 packets will do 3 connectors.

BTW, a comon point of corrosion is in the rear turn lights, where a small strap, held in place with a Phillips screw, makes the bulb-to-stem ground contact. Remove the screw and clean the underside of these straps. Another potential problem is the rear stem-to-frame contact; you might remove the stems completely and clean the contact surfaces.

After all this, you may find your headlight is brighter as well as having working turn lights at idle. Take a section at at time and work through it.