Thought my oil filter o ring was leaking and is not it's the oil pan gasket, with the motor in when i drop the pan do i have to watch for any surprises like oilpump or other parts dropping out?
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Oil pan removal
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Taking the pan off you really have to just watch out for the dripping oil of course. Places the bike on a drop cloth or tarp is a good idea as it can be messy.
There are the wires coming from the alternator that you can disconnect from behind the fuse box and tie off to prevent getting cover in oil.
When you replace the pan just watch that you don't pinch any wires when you tighten the pan bolts to spec. The bolts are not all the same length so keep track where the bolts are removed from the pan. I think there are a few up front that are longer.BDF Special
80SG Vetter bagger 1196 Wiseco big bore kit, Mega Cycle Cams, slotted cam gears, ported and flowed head, bronze intake seats, Dyno Jet kit, Dyno coils and Mikes XS air pods, Venture cam chain adjuster,Geezer's regulator, Clutch mod, Mac 4 into 1 with custom built and tuned baffle, Oil cooler,MikesXS emulators mod.
Dyno tuned to 98 hp at the rear wheel.
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If there are any other parts in the pan once you drop it then you have bigger problems versus a leaking gasket. I had to replace mine about a year after I purchased the bike and other then the pain of having to remove the exhaust etc... there really wasn't much to it. I had to replace mine because I sheered off the drain plug bolt. That is what happens when you are dealing with aluminum. I have always been extra careful since. I know they make bolts that are self tapping that I could have went with, but when the bike was only a year old I wanted to go back to original.2 - 80 LGs bought one new
81 LH
02 FXSTB Nighttrain
22 FLTRK Road Glide Limited
Jim
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Brokenarrow - I replaced my pan gasket the year before last. Pretty easy job but there are a couple of bolts towards the rear that are a little difficult to get at - frame kind of gets in the way. I took a 5mm 1/4" socket, cut the end off a 5mm allen wrench and stuck it in the socket. Gave me a little more reach and made the job a lot easier.
Also there are galley plugs on each side of the motor that are notorious for leaking. The one on the right side is under the alternator cover, and the other is just below and behind the timing cover. Both have o-rings that need to be replaced periodically. If the oil is coming out there it will go all over the underside of the motor. Be particularly careful with the one by the timing cover. It's made out of pot metal and is VERY easy to overtorque at which point it will snap in two. DAMHIKLast edited by dbeardslee; 03-01-2009, 02:06 PM.I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.
'79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines
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