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Valve clearances at 20 degrees Farenheit?

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  • Valve clearances at 20 degrees Farenheit?

    Okay guys, next question.

    I have a 1980 XS1100 (G) Midnight Special.

    Today I got the valve cover off and checked valve clearances. Thing is, I'm in Ann Arbor, MI and my "garage" is a patch of dirt on the side of the parking lot in my back yard (it's okay, my neighbors already thought I was a redneck). It was something like 20 degrees out today, probably a little warmer on my black bike with the sun out. I know the manual says to measure valve clearances "at room temperature," but if this bike would fit inside my house, believe me I wouldn't be working on it outside! So I figured I'd just check the clearances anyways, note any glaring problems, and see what you guys had to say about it. Here's what I got:

    Cyl#_____Exhaust_____Intake_____Spark plug condition

    SPEC____.008-.010"___.006-.008" <--Listed tolerance in manual for "room temp"

    1_______.0075"_______.0035"______Soot on the outside, white/tan stuff caked to top electrode
    2_______.0085"________.0035"_____"Totally normal"
    3_______.0085"________.0035"_____"Totally normal"
    4_______.006"_________.00275"____"Totally normal"

    Measurements are the average between the smallest feeler that COULDN'T fit in the gap and the largest feeler that COULD.

    So, I thought these were kind of funny results. I expected the clearances to be larger than usual, not smaller, because I figured the valve end stays in place, so when the metal shrinks due to cold, the upper end of the valve retracts away from the cam.

    What do you guys think - does the temperature really have a significant effect on the clearances? Has anyone else tried checking clearances in very cold weather?

    If there's a consensus on that, then I can start worrying about what adjustments I need to make.

    'Preciate it,

    Marshall
    Ann Arbor, MI; Needham, MA
    1980 Yamaha XS1100 Midnight Special
    1983 Kawasaki gpZ550
    1978 Kawasaki KZ650

  • #2
    The 20F is not going to make any real difference to your measurements.

    the big change is from 60F-250F. Going from 20F-250F is not going to make a big difference.

    You want to set as close to the 'large' setting as you can without going over, so take your measurements there and use the chart.

    There is a Shim chart somewhere here you can use too.
    Nice day, if it doesn't rain...

    '05 ST1300
    '83 502/502 Monte Carlo for sale/trade

    Comment


    • #3
      It makes me wonder if maybe that was meant as a general statement so people wouldn't try to check them at operating temps. I agree that the cam/shim gap wouldn't change a measurable distance from 20 degrees to a normal 70 or whatever. As stated, shim them to the thickest tolerances you can get them since they get CLOSER as they wear.


      Tod
      Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.

      You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!

      Current bikes:
      '06 Suzuki DR650
      *'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
      '82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
      '82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
      '82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
      '82 XJ1100 Parts bike
      '81 XS1100 Special
      '81 YZ250
      '80 XS850 Special
      '80 XR100
      *Crashed/Totalled, still own

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by marshall View Post
        Okay guys, next question.

        I have a 1980 XS1100 (G) Midnight Special.

        Today I got the valve cover off and checked valve clearances. Thing is, I'm in Ann Arbor, MI and my "garage" is a patch of dirt on the side of the parking lot in my back yard (it's okay, my neighbors already thought I was a redneck). It was something like 20 degrees out today, probably a little warmer on my black bike with the sun out. I know the manual says to measure valve clearances "at room temperature," but if this bike would fit inside my house, believe me I wouldn't be working on it outside! So I figured I'd just check the clearances anyways, note any glaring problems, and see what you guys had to say about it. Here's what I got:

        Cyl#_____Exhaust_____Intake_____Spark plug condition

        SPEC____.008-.010"___.006-.008" <--Listed tolerance in manual for "room temp"

        1_______.0075"_______.0035"______Soot on the outside, white/tan stuff caked to top electrode
        2_______.0085"________.0035"_____"Totally normal"
        3_______.0085"________.0035"_____"Totally normal"
        4_______.006"_________.00275"____"Totally normal"

        Measurements are the average between the smallest feeler that COULDN'T fit in the gap and the largest feeler that COULD.

        So, I thought these were kind of funny results. I expected the clearances to be larger than usual, not smaller, because I figured the valve end stays in place, so when the metal shrinks due to cold, the upper end of the valve retracts away from the cam.

        What do you guys think - does the temperature really have a significant effect on the clearances? Has anyone else tried checking clearances in very cold weather?

        If there's a consensus on that, then I can start worrying about what adjustments I need to make.

        'Preciate it,

        Marshall
        For the 80 xs1100G/xs110SG the intake clearence has been reduced to .004-.006 from.006-.008
        BDF Special
        80SG Vetter bagger 1196 Wiseco big bore kit, Mega Cycle Cams, slotted cam gears, ported and flowed head, bronze intake seats, Dyno Jet kit, Dyno coils and Mikes XS air pods, Venture cam chain adjuster,Geezer's regulator, Clutch mod, Mac 4 into 1 with custom built and tuned baffle, Oil cooler,MikesXS emulators mod.
        Dyno tuned to 98 hp at the rear wheel.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by tinman905 View Post
          For the 80 xs1100G/xs110SG the intake clearence has been reduced to .004-.006 from.006-.008
          Wow, thanks for that. That actually makes a huge difference to me, as I need to swap a few less shims, and I'm willing to put up $8 a pop to do it locally rather than having to wait to go through the shim library. I need to be more careful and remember to check the 1980 supplement at the end of my Clymer!
          Ann Arbor, MI; Needham, MA
          1980 Yamaha XS1100 Midnight Special
          1983 Kawasaki gpZ550
          1978 Kawasaki KZ650

          Comment


          • #6
            $8?? Is that the only shop around? It doesn't have to be a Yamaha shop. A lot of them will trade straight across with you, but nobody should be getting more than $5 in my opinion.... unless it is the only shop around.


            Tod
            Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.

            You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!

            Current bikes:
            '06 Suzuki DR650
            *'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
            '82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
            '82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
            '82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
            '82 XJ1100 Parts bike
            '81 XS1100 Special
            '81 YZ250
            '80 XS850 Special
            '80 XR100
            *Crashed/Totalled, still own

            Comment

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