Just bought an 80 xs11 special and need some help.

[doorsfan83]

First a shout out to all the people on this forum seems like a great place. I bought the bike last night I got it pretty cheap with some accesories even though cosmetically it appears to be in good condition. I heard it run but it was a blizzard here in illinois so I didnt get a chance to ride it. I started it today and it will idle fairly well after it is warmed up but seems to be hit or miss when you try to rev. it cuts out between 1500 and 2500 rpm a couple small back fires but nothing major. A little smoke from the left side but not a lot. I am no mechanic but the rubber tubes that go from the front of the carbs to the head seem to be cracked pretty hardcore. The kid I bought it off of has had it for over 2 years and hasnt ran it for about 4 months he said he rode it the last time it was running but you know how that goes. I am thinking it needs some new rubber carb tubes probably a rebuild and possibly the valves set. Am I right about this or is there something else it could be? Does anyone have a guess to what getting this bike running right by a very reasonable mechanic will cost me? Any input would be greatly appreciated.

[DGXSER]

Welcome to the board! Alot of really great knowledgable folks here. I am fairly new as well. Have an 81 special myself.

The boots that run from the carbs to the heads are double wall. They can be cracked on the outside but still ok if the inside is not cracked. You can check if they are leaking by spraying a carb cleaner or starting fluid around them and see if the idle picks up.

You also mention smoking, which if dark or black could be rich condition, not indicative of the vacuum leak. Have you pulled the plugs and looked at them yet?

[bikerphil]

It helps to run some Seafoam fuel treatment in the gas. This'll help loosen up any crud in the carbs. Pour in at least half a can and run it. After sitting overnite, the residue will break up. If you need to disassemble the carbs later for a thorough cleaning, this'll make it much easier. Also, if you unscrew each spark plug cap and cut 1/4" off each wire and reinstall, you'll know you're getting a strong spark. Just a couple of ideas.

[doorsfan83]

Smart thinking Always start with the small stuff first I will pull the plugs in the morning even i cant screw that up cant wait to ride this beast.

[3Phase]

First a shout out to all the people on this forum seems like a great place. I bought the bike last night I got it pretty cheap with some accesories even though cosmetically it appears to be in good condition. I heard it run but it was a blizzard here in illinois so I didnt get a chance to ride it. I started it today and it will idle fairly well after it is warmed up but seems to be hit or miss when you try to rev. it cuts out between 1500 and 2500 rpm a couple small back fires but nothing major. A little smoke from the left side but not a lot. I am no mechanic but the rubber tubes that go from the front of the carbs to the head seem to be cracked pretty hardcore. The kid I bought it off of has had it for over 2 years and hasnt ran it for about 4 months he said he rode it the last time it was running but you know how that goes. I am thinking it needs some new rubber carb tubes probably a rebuild and possibly the valves set. Am I right about this or is there something else it could be? Does anyone have a guess to what getting this bike running right by a very reasonable mechanic will cost me? Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Welcome, doorsfan! You'll have to shop around to find a reasonable mechanic that will work on old Japanese bikes. It's better if you can do the work yourself. If you edit your forum profile and include your 1980 Special in your Signature and your (general) location in Illinois there may be a forum member near you that can give you some help.

Have you taken the bike up through the rough spots?
How does it run after you get up through the rough spots?

As DGXSER says, the rubber carburetor boots are pretty thick. You may just have old fuel in the tank, dirty carburetors and petcocks, flaky ignition wires, or a gerbil trying to hibernate in the air cleaner. If the carburetor boots really are leaking the bad news is that prices seem to have gone through the stratosphere since I last looked:

www.carbkitscapital.com

Part #48-1466 $115.00 USD
XS1100 ALL (1979-1981) Carb Holders, Includes 4 Carb Holders.
Replaces OEM #2H7-13586-00-00(X2) and 2H7-13596-00-00(X2).

Check one-hundred-fifteen times and more to ensure that the cracks don't go all the way through the rubber before you buy a set of those puppies!

There is a parts fiche available at http://www.yamaha-motor.com.
Put in the year and model of your bike and check it out.

It's hard to guess what kind of shape your new bike is in from your first post but make certain the carburetors are tight in the boots; all vacuum plugs and lines are on; vacuum advance line is hooked up to number 2 carburetor; spark plug wires are on tight and not cracked, etc.

After you start the bike, spray some water on the exhaust pipes to see if one of them is not working. The water will vaporize from a hot exhaust pipe and it will sit and sizzle a little or just run off of a cold exhaust pipe.

Good luck!

Regards,

Scott

[fredintoon]

Hi Doorsfan & welcome,
first, check that all 4 plugs actually spark. Most carb-related problems are with the low and mid-speed systems.
Under no-load conditions if it's sparking on all 4 you should be able to redline the tach once you've coaxed it up to 3,000rpm or so.
OTOH, the engine's performance running as a twin or a triple really sucks.
Only sissies squirt water on their pipes. Just lick your finger and give the pipe a quick touch. If the saliva boils off, the cylinder is running.
If it don't, it ain't. My Mom used that trick to see if her iron was hot enough to do Dad's shirts.
Once you know all 4 are sparking, it's carbie time. Good luck!

[DGXSER]

One other thought I don't think anyone mentioned, is checking compression. Basics of engine performance - three things needed, compression, spark, and fuel.

To check compression, pull all four plug wires off, typically it is hard to get them put back on the wrong cylinder. Then, put a compression gage into each cylinder, one at a time, hold the throttle full open, hit the starter and let it turn the engine over until the needle stops going up, should take three or four compressions on that cylinder. I think the std. compression is 142 psi cold. Plus or minus 10-15 and you should be ok. If you have low compression, try adding a teaspoon of oil to that cylinder and repeating the test. If the number goes up, it is typically a problem with rings, if not then valves.

Again, a simple check and it will tell you alot. Other than buying the gage, cost you nothing and is no harder than pulling the plugs and putting them back.

[slow mo]

welcome doorsfan

if your carb boots are cracked i suggest you buy plasti-dip black spray and apply a few coats much cheaper than buying new carb holders;;good luck!!slow mo!!

[DJinNH]

If the carburetor boots really are leaking the bad news is that prices seem to have gone through the stratosphere since I last looked:

www.carbkitscapital.com

Part #48-1466 $115.00 USD
XS1100 ALL (1979-1981) Carb Holders, Includes 4 Carb Holders.
Replaces OEM #2H7-13586-00-00(X2) and 2H7-13596-00-00(X2).


There is a parts fiche available at http://www.yamaha-motor.com.
Put in the year and model of your bike and check it out.


Regards,

Scott

Here's another parts website that may be of some help if you can't find your parts in the above links.

www.bikebandit.com

Welcome to XS11.com! Some very smart folks in here will certainly be of help to you.

Don

[exquized1]

Welcome doorsfan,
I was wondering what part of Il. you from. I am hosting 2 rallies this year in Il. and would love to get a chance to ride with you. There is alot of great info on here. Good luck with makeing the beast scream again. I am heading out today to fire mine up for the first time this winter.

[doorsfan83]

running great

I changed the plugs I am pretty sure they were the originals and amazingly the original tool kit was still in its original bag every piece with yamaha stamped right on the side. I bought a bottle of seafoam dumped half the bottle in the bike immediately started to idle better but still cut out when trying to rev it so being the impatient person I am I dumped the whole bottle in mind you there is less than 2 gallons of gas let it run for a few minutes and voila the bike revs like its new no hesitation nothing but pure power. The stuff costs $8.99 a bottle but it is worth every penny. I went out tonight and bought a new battery as soon as it gets done charging up im going to take her to the gas station and water down the rest of that seafoam. Has anyone used it in the oil? I am asking because I will be changing the oil shortly and am wondering if I should put some in the oil before I change or after? At this point I might take a shot everynight to keep me strong. Anyways thanks to everyone who posted you guys saved me some money and I am in peoria illinois and will definately be up for a rally.

[ELDR]

Seafoam

Just before you change the oil, you can add some to the crankcase. Run the bike a few minutes to mix it in and let it do its work. Do not go anywhere with Seafoam in the oil, its a solvent. Then change the oil.

http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechGas.htm

[xj11john]

you can add marvel mystery oil to oil and gas and leave them in, but I Also would not leave the seafoam in I'd change the oil after doing it.
Sometimes I put some lucus in my oil and it seems to quiet my engine down quite abit. welcome to the best motorcycle site out there!

[jeffe]

I changed the plugs I am pretty sure they were the originals and amazingly the original tool kit was still in its original bag every piece with yamaha stamped right on the side. I bought a bottle of seafoam dumped half the bottle in the bike immediately started to idle better but still cut out when trying to rev it so being the impatient person I am I dumped the whole bottle in mind you there is less than 2 gallons of gas let it run for a few minutes and voila the bike revs like its new no hesitation nothing but pure power. The stuff costs $8.99 a bottle but it is worth every penny. I went out tonight and bought a new battery as soon as it gets done charging up im going to take her to the gas station and water down the rest of that seafoam. Has anyone used it in the oil? I am asking because I will be changing the oil shortly and am wondering if I should put some in the oil before I change or after? At this point I might take a shot everynight to keep me strong. Anyways thanks to everyone who posted you guys saved me some money and I am in peoria illinois and will definately be up for a rally.

I use Seafoam in the oil every second or third oil change. Don't be suprised at what the oil looks like when you drain it. The Seafoam breaks up all the gunk in the crankcase. It also seems to make the clutch work better. Just don't run it for very long with it in there.