Can anyone help me figure out how to pull this?

[digitalsam]

I have a puller and am trying to pull the wheel off of the Crank shaft? I don't know how much pressure I should exert. I can't push any harder without a cheater bar and I don't know if it is safe to use one? Will it just pop off? Is there a circlip or bolt that I am missing?

[bikerphil]

The best way (correct) way to pull that rotor is go to your local bolt supplier and get a 16MM, 1.50 pitch thread metric bolt about 2-2.5" long and thread it into the center of the rotor. Put a screwdriver thru the slots in the rotor to keep it from spinning, and tighten the bolt down. The rotor will pop right off. Others have done it the way you have it set up, probably with a bigger puller, and it has worked for them. One of those bolts will cost you about $2-3. Works like a charm.

Here's a link to the professional tool, but it's really just a high grade bolt...

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/...16_x_1.5_r.h./

[Pat Kelly]

Someone said the rear axle is the correct thread. Use as above to remove.

[ccogswel]

I had to remove one of these before. And was it a tough. This may help you. I have the same size puller you are using by the way. But what I had done was I tightened it up and then I took a hammer and hit it on the end of the bolt. Tighten it up some more and hit it again. After like the third time it popped off. Be carefull tho as when mine finally came off it jumped off. Swear it seemed like it flew 3-4 feet.
Good Luck!

[John]

Put the bolt back in the end of the crank and bottom the bolt out until it touches the rotor. Now back the bolt out a few turns. Re-apply the puller with the arbor on the bolt head. Now turn the arbor in until you have a good strain on it. Use a hammer to strike the hex end of the arbor when it is under a strain. Quite often that will break them loose. It works for me.

[prometheus578]

Someone said the rear axle is the correct thread. Use as above to remove.

I think it was Geezer mentioned that long ago.
If you try that, DigitalSam, let us know if that's correct.

[digitalsam]

Rear Axle and... um what the heck is the arbor

I pulled the rear axle and it is not the same size. At least not on my bike. It is too big and the front axle is too small... said the baby bear.

Also, John... what is the arbor? is it the long bolt in the middle of the puller?

Is there any danger of harm to the bike or me if I use a cheater bar? I don't want to have the puller wack me between the eyes or something equally as fun.

[tarzan]

Why not just buy a bolt and have it come off easy?You already know the size right?From bikerphils post.Might save some pain.JAT
I used an impact wrench with a puller like that on one and it bent the rotor a little

[prometheus578]

actually... the thing you'd damage most is the rotor itself.
I'd be carefull.
They were not meant to be taken apart like that.
As mentioned, there is a special tool for that job.
there is even a universal tool.. shaped like a 4 way tire iron(with different thread pitches on each arm). You just screw it it and give it a whack with a rubber mallet and the thing pops off in your hands.
Tool costs thirty bucks.
Now.. if'in I were you(which I'm glad that I'm not!) what I'd do is...
Throw the whole thing in the trunk of your car and head to Yamaha.
Walk up to the service manager with your part in one hand and a cold six pack in the other. Chances are you'll be back out of there in five minutes with the rotor in your hand.
I mean... it's a 2 second job.
I'd ship you my tool to use... but by the time your beer gets here, it'd be warm and I'd be pissed at you.

[digitalsam]

I guess I'll buy the bolt.

I guess I'm just cheap. I will buy the bolt tomorrow and see how it works out.

The Yamaha dealerships are an hour away and wont touch a bike older than 20 years.

It's good experience. Thanks guys.

[trbig]

I have the proper bolt and with an impact it still required several blows with a hammer after the impact quit tightening it any more. So, it can be a major PITA. Just don't go hog wild with the hammer since you only have one half shell of a saddle bearing keeping the crank from sideways movement.

My question is... why are you taking it off? Unless you're replacing the crank seal, the cases can be split with the XS rotor in place. The XJ rotor is shaped differently and sometimes won't let you.

Tod

[digitalsam]

Why remove the Rotor?

I am removing the rotor for a few reasons. 1) so I can say I took the bike totally down to parts (an egotistical bragging thing) 2) I was going to put the casing in a vat to remove all the grime before I paint it. 3) It has to come off because it won't come off. (it's a pride thing)

I wasn't going to remove it, but walking past it each day just bugs me.

[strom]

Had the same problem.... on my 78.
As luck would have it, a good friend of mine had a bigger... pulling thingie (sorry, english isnt my primary language).
Anyway, suffice to say, he has a big one
A lot of force, some taps with a hammer and it came off with a BANG. I was upstairs taking a leak and I heard it pop

So, you can use a lot of force, but in the right places.
Dunno why I took mine off... I think the crankcase wouldnt come apart... :P Turns out we were doing it all wrong, but then again, I was barely XS illiterate atm.

LP

[Winterhawk]

Be careful beating on anything magnetic as it will rearrange the electrons? and one could loose the magnetism in an object.

[Winterhawk]

I don't remember if this rotor is magnet or not. Just speaking in general about flywheels and such. I'll see if I have 2 and I'd give you one.