2 problems starting and turnsignals

[XSPastor]

Yep

no no power whatsoever. 12.7 at the main 30a fuse and nothing at the other 3 removed the fairing(held on with 2 zip ties) and cycled all the connectors in what would have been the headlight box. the fairing connector is disconnected. no events between the changes in status... just one day it works the next it doesnt. jiggling the key doesnt change anything nor does jiggling the connector. gonna go back and try again.

are there any connectors behind the fuse plate.

Yes - there are connectors behind the fuse plate.

[bikerphil]

are there any connectors behind the fuse plate.

Yes, the alternator connections are back there and they tend to corrode. Also check the red wire that goes to the Ign. switch for voltage with the key off. Should have 12V there.

[tarzan]

Your headlight dont work?right.Does the tach work?

[oldyam80sg]

Did you check the diode along the harness that goes to the headlight?If the diode is bad i think the light wont work-i could be wrong but mine was toast.

[Ken Talbot]

Check the fuses again. This time, take them out of the holders, and pull vigorously on the metal end caps. If they are good, there is no danger of them coming apart. There's a good chance they have broken under the cap and are only making intermittent contact.

[adleeman]

more information

i pulled the fairing and the connector for the ignition switch is messed up. the red lead is burnt and toasty and the connector body is slightly melted. i got supplies to fix that. but the problem is that there is no 12v coming off the harness into it... i get like a 1v reading on that lead. according to the wiring diagram there is a terminal assembly with a black and a red lead. anybody know where that is? it goes battery+ to the fuse and starter button. a red comes off the bottom of the fuse and goes to terminal assembly, rectifier and main switch. as always any help is appreciated.

[bikerphil]

That terminal assy. is just for adding accessories and it is near the bottom left of the fuse panel with a single glass fuse. That melted red wire runs from the main fuse to the ign. switch. Try running a jumper between those 2 and see if it powers up. As mentioned above, make sure that 30 amp main fuse checks out good. It is highly recommended to replace that old glass type fuse box with a new blade type one. This will help eliminate many electrical gremlins and other problems down the road. It's an easy upgrade.

[adleeman]

2 problems

<1v on the recitfier red wire too. haven't found the connector for the start switch. these are the three(4) places the red goes from the main fuse. bottom of main fuse to start button, on switch, rectifier and the mysterious terminal assy...

guess i could make up some jumpers and pull the three reds from the connector shell and wire power directly to them. or resistance checks might be easier...

it just hit me- your saying that the terminal assembly is the auxillary power terminal with the tiny glass fuse.....

[adleeman]

2 problems

working again gotta check headlights.

[DiverRay]

One more post:
IF YOU STILL HAVE THE ORIGINAL GLASS TYPE FUSE, REPLACE THE FUSE BLOCK!!!!!!!!!
End of post.
End of problems.