Alternator Help Please

[XS Jeff]

Hello all,

This is my first post. I've read a lot of threads though and have been able to figure out my way through my first bike pretty well so far, but I'm not a mechanic, so hopefully someone can point me in the right direction.

I've got a 80 special (bought it off Sid the Squid), and I was worried about not getting enough juice out of the charging system because my turn signals wouldn't flash when stopped(common problem I guess). So I followed the instructions on how to test the alternator, and everything was similar to the results expected except that when I had the bike running, the green wire never came up above 1v, even at 6000rpm and the instructions said to expect 11v.

My first attempt to rectify the problem was that I put a new battery in last week when I insured the bike (the flashing thing was a problem last year, and I suspected the battery was old and worn out, so replaced it for this year). I've ridden to work every day, and tested the battery tonight when I got home and it is still at 12.3v which, in addition to the fact that the turn signals flash if I throttle up when stopped to the 2k band, tells me the charging system must be working to some degree. So then I suspected charging system and that led me to conduct my little VOM test.

Everything is OEM as far as I can tell (PO never mentioned any specific electrical upgrades), but I've just ordered some LED's for the turn signals to help reduce the load. However, I'm not 100% sure where the 1v on the green wire leaves me... Rectifier? Regulator? Help please.

Thanks,
Jeff

[The Lorax]

First, Welcome to the forum, the more the merrier. as to your issue, it could be the REG/RECT. unit, they do have a tendency towards odd behavior, the good news is that one of the members here upgrades them or makes a better one. before you get to that, check all the connections, grounds as well, make sure they are clean and free of corrosion. 30 year old copper wire gets funky and its ability to conduct electrons at connection points can become compromised. I'll let someone who actually knows the deal with the regulator answer as to whether or not your unit is bad, but check and clean the electrical connections first, might just solve your problem. have a nice day and ride safe

[Ken Talbot]

Hey, Jeff, so how is Yellow Zonker?

Like Lorax says, spend some time cleaning connectors first.

Where abouts on the Island are you from? I spent a few years there growing up in Duncan.

[XS Jeff]

The Zonker is doin' all right. Its got a bit of a smell, but I think it is from a little oil leak which I have yet to deal with. It's still yellow (matches my wicked rain pains, which were necessary today when it snowed... Maybe February was a bit ambitious). I've been fighting with a few problems which sound very common such as rear brake seizing (but releases when I open the bleeder, so I travel with an 8mm wrench), a noisy valve which may need a larger shim, and of course this turn signal issue.

I'm in (and from) Victoria, living in Colwood right now, though I lived in Cobble hill for a few years too.

I'll clean the connectors again and maybe even replace some of the wires to make sure that there isn't any unseen corrosion just inside the casing, but I'm curious if the voltage is still 1 on the green wire, what does that indicate? I got a lot of spare parts from Sid, so maybe I'll try swapping out the regulator.

Thanks for the help,
Jeff

[randy]

Jeff,

Even if you do replace the reg/rec, cleaning the connectors can only help. If the new reg/rec doesn't help, check behind the fuse box mounting plate. There is a set of connectors hidden behind there that may be your culprit. Clean 'em. Also clean the area where the reg/rec mounts to the frame to ensure a good ground.

[madmax-im]

I would suggest you clean all grounds as well...especially from the frame to the engine

[skids]

You can always convert to an electronic flasher unit. You lose your auto-cancelling feature, but flasher rate is dependable.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Jeff,
Welcome! Now as to the LED's, if you do put them in you WILL need to switch to an electronic flasher because the LED's won't provide enough of a current draw to activate the thermal oem flasher and you will have NO Flashers/turn signals!

These Reg/Rect units are not very strong/durable, and can go bad easily! You mentioned the power of the battery after a ride home. BUT have you checked the charging voltage at 2500 rpm? It should be 14.5 volts or very close to that. But like Randy said, the connectors behind the fusepanel corrode, and can restrict the flow of the charging current, even have been known to heat up to melt the connector case!

Geezer's Reg/Rect unit is the BOMB, much stronger than OEM, and provides a stronger lower idle charging rate!
T.C.

[Ivan]

I think maybe you should start with a charging voltage test.

If you are getting more than battery voltage at the battery terminals with the engine about 2500, then everything is probably fine. Turn everything on, and check. High beam, brakes and flashers. If the battery voltage goes below 12, then you need to worry.

When my signals don't flash at the corner, I blip the throttle a couple times, and they start flashing again. Sometimes I just let it sit there with no flash, to make people wonder....

Your rear brake locking up could be due to improper adjustment of the push rod from the pedal to the master cylinder. You need a hair's breadth of free play in it, or it will lock up on you.

[Geezer]

The best way to check the charging is to test the voltage from the red wire on the reg/rec to ground. You should see 14.5v around 4500 RPM if everything is working right.

The field coil grounds through the green wire and this isn't a good place to check for voltage. It will seem weird at best.

Cleaning the connections isn't just a good idea, it's a must. Check out the following link on how to do it right.

Geezer

[XS Jeff]

Thanks everyone for your replies. I've got an electric flasher now (and thankfully I had found earlier that I needed a 2prong, not a 3 like the one in there already) and that seems to have solved the no-flash at idle problem. I also cleaned the connections really well, and am hoping the LED replacement bulbs will arrive on Monday so that I can still decrease the load at idle with turn indicators on.

Geezer: thanks very much for the tip about red instead of green wire. I will give that a try and see what I get. I do have a replacement reg/rec, but it appears to be older (well, fins are smaller in height and no identifying marks, sticker, or stamp... it is just gray instead of black). So if I get low volts on Red I'll swap and try the other one.

I'll keep you updated, and thanks again for the advice.

Jeff

[XS Jeff]

Tested correct

Well, I've comleted the test Geezer suggested and I got the 14.5v at only 3500 rpm. So I'm closing the book on this one. Problem solved with elctric flasher and charging system proven to be good.

Thanks again for everyones advice.

Jeff