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  • Charging system ideas?

    Are there any electronic gurus out there that have a fix for the anemic charging system on our XS11's? I had a 750 Ducati in the '70's and they had a weak charging system also. An owners' club member came up with replacing the regulator/rectifier diodes by pressing in new Sylvania diodes. I did that and the charging system improved markedly. I was wondering if that's possible on the XS11 regulator/rectifier?
    Dennis

  • #2
    New Rectifier/Regulator

    Last week the battery on my XS1100 died, like it does
    at the beginning of summer every two years. I replaced
    the battery but then found that my alternator would
    not charge the battery with the headlight on. With the
    light off everything seemed fine, output voltage went
    up to 14.5 volts like it should but when the light was
    switched on the voltage dropped to 12 volts and
    wouldn't go any higher no matter how high the engine
    speed. The alternator coils ohmed out OK so I
    concluded that the bad battery must have damaged the
    rectifier diodes by overheating or something.
    I connected an external rectifier bridge to see if
    that would solve the problem and it seemed to work
    normally. The rectifier and regulator sections of the
    stock unit are actually two separate units inside one
    housing that share only the ground wire so either part
    can be replaced individually by wiring up the needed
    part on the outside. Having two circuits wired
    together was quite a cludge though so I decided to
    make a new unit with modern components. Three years
    ago there was a web page by SLHanson that showed how
    to wire in a new regulator if the stock one fails. The
    web page isn't there now but I saved a copy that I
    printed out. He used a Wells VR751 external regulator
    module for a VW/Audi alternator. It only has 2 wires
    to hookup and I bought one at the time. They used to
    be available from Checker, AutoZone, etc. but are not
    stocked anymore since they haven't sold any for 15
    years so I ordered it from Wells but don't remember
    what it costs. Instead of buying a complete regulator
    I could have built one from individual parts but used
    this unit that I already had on hand. The new
    regulator wires in series with the field coil but on
    the battery side, not the ground side like the
    original, so all you do is disconnect the wires in the
    white plug from the coil and rearrange them.
    In my case I wanted to add a new rectifier diode
    bridge too. It takes a 3-phase bridge which is not too
    common and has to be ordered so I used 2 readily
    available full wave bridges from the electronics store
    instead. They are part # MB356, 35A, 600volt from
    Circuit Specialists in Mesa, AZ for $3.50 each and
    probably have higher ratings than the stock part. To
    use 2 individual bridges all you have to do is wire
    the plus and minus terminals together and connect the
    3 alternator coil output white wires to 3 of the ac
    inputs on the bridges. To make a neater installation I
    cut out an aluminum panel to mount the parts on that
    fits nicely under the side cover on my XS1100. I also
    put an 8 terminal screw type terminal strip on one
    side of the panel to connect all the wires to. That
    way I was able to get rid of the broken white
    alternator connector with it's burned contacts by
    cutting the old one off and crimping terminals on the
    wires to connect to the terminal strip. I put some
    heat sink grease under the 2 bridge rectifiers for
    better heat transfer, since they get hot. Their
    terminals are flat and can be soldered or they will
    accept spade type push on terminals. I had some pieces
    of wire from an old washer or some other appliance
    that had push on connectors on all the ends that I
    used to make the connections by cutting them to length
    and crimping a screw terminal on the other end that
    goes to the terminal strip. To make sure the housing
    of the regulator module was properly grounded I
    connected a black wire from one of it's mounting
    screws to the ground terminal on the T.S.
    Now the alternator works normally again at a cost of
    less than $10.00 to build a new one. It only took
    about an hour to build and allowed me to clean up the
    alternator connectors and I also added a new blade
    type fuse holder to the battery.
    It still doesn't charge at idle, same as before, but I
    found that I have about 1.0 volt being dropped in the
    wiring that goes up to the ign. switch from the
    battery fuse and back to the other fuses so I'm going
    to look into that next. Maybe a Harley style ign.
    switch on the side panel?
    I took a picture of the completed unit in case anyone
    wants to see what it looks like.
    72 TS185
    77 XS750
    78 SR500
    80 XS850
    80 XS1100 Midnight Special
    81 Seca XJ750RH

    Comment


    • #3
      Hey Steve,

      This looks like a great tech tip, if you could write it up in more common English for us NON-Electricians, with some diagrams/pictures to show exactly how to put it together and exactly what wires to put where, what parts to get, etc.!?!?!

      And send it all to the moderator for the Forum for posting!! Mine works for now, but I had to replace it many years ago when I burned mine up with too many aux. lights running!!!
      Thanks, T.C.
      T. C. Gresham
      81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
      79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
      History shows again and again,
      How nature points out the folly of men!

      Comment


      • #4
        I have a 78E. My headlight is on all the time, day or night. There is a headlight ON/OFF switch on the right handlebar, but it does nothing. I know....'lights on for safety'....but it sure ruins a ride when you push the starter and nothing happens.

        Great write-up, Steve. Agree it would be a great tech tip.
        Dennis

        Comment


        • #5
          Headlight on

          Dennis,

          I have an E, which I've only had for a short time. When my headlight switch is "on" the headlight is on whether or not the engine is running. When the switch is "off" the headlight is only on when the engine is running.

          I've assumed this situation was by design, although the previous owner was quick (and a bit daffy) with a wrench, so he might have modified it in some way.

          I keep the switch in the "off" position, but I also have a portable trickle charger harness semi-permanently hooked to the battery and stored under the non-locking side cover, so I don't know how much good the switch in "off" position is doing.

          Hope this helps,
          Brian

          Comment


          • #6
            Off Topic

            Hey there Brian/NoVaXS,

            I see you live in Falls Church, I'm down here in Portsmouth, Va. Are you planning on going to the XSEast2003 Rally in Pa. Memorial Day Weekend?? A few of us are going to be going up Saturday AM(May24), will be meeting in Leesburg on Hwy15. Welcome to the Forum and the XS11 gang. Drop me a line if you are interested!

            Apologies for the Off Topic post!!!! T.C.
            T. C. Gresham
            81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
            79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
            History shows again and again,
            How nature points out the folly of men!

            Comment

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