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  • replacing fork springs

    I finally was able to get my old girl home (1980 xs11sg) and now she's gonna get the TLC she needs. She's gonna get new plugs and oil all through, new tires, and I'm wanting to get rid of the air system on the forks. I've read a thread that covered replacing the fork setup and running different springs in it but i don't remember the details. If anyone has a link to the type of springs I need or more info for me that would be awesome. Thanks
    1980 XS11SG
    Dunlop elite 3's, progressive fork springs, tkat brace
    Stock motor, airbox, carbs, exhaust
    ratted out, mean, and nasty

  • #2
    Seems I recal it being Progressive springs. Company site I recall seing was called Progressive IIRC.
    Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

    When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

    81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
    80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


    Previously owned
    93 GSX600F
    80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
    81 XS1100 Special
    81 CB750 C
    80 CB750 C
    78 XS750

    Comment


    • #3
      Looks like the PN is ...

      11-1110 for both standard and special.

      http://www.progressivesuspension.com/productsearch.aspx

      Looks as if they prefer to sell through dealers ... Parts Unlimited is listed as a source and is a popular vendor for many local shops.

      May I ask: why are you thinking about dumping the air forks for non-inflatibles?
      80G Mini-bagger
      VM33 Smooth bores, Pods, 4/1 Supertrapp, SS brake lines, fork brace

      Past XS11s

      79F Stone stocker and former daily driver, sold May '10 now converting for N.O. to cafe style
      79SF eventually dismantled for parts
      79F Bought almost new in 80, sold for a house
      79F The Ernie bike sold to a Navy dude summer 08
      79SF Squared-off Special, Vetter/Bates tour pkg., Mikes XS coils, G rear fender and tail light. Sold June 09

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by thewiz View Post
        May I ask: why are you thinking about dumping the air forks for non-inflatibles?
        I thought I'd heard/read that non inflatables were run without oil or that there was less maintenance as far as fork seals and changing oil. Also I have a bit of extra money so I'm looking for mods and upgrades to improve my bike. P.S. if any has suggestions or recommendations as to what else I should do for maintenance or mods please let me know
        Last edited by BigDick; 02-09-2009, 11:03 AM.
        1980 XS11SG
        Dunlop elite 3's, progressive fork springs, tkat brace
        Stock motor, airbox, carbs, exhaust
        ratted out, mean, and nasty

        Comment


        • #5
          It's an easy mod. and well worth it. On a Special, drain tho old fork oil, fill up 225cc per leg with 10W, put in new Progressive springs with a 3.5" spacer on top (washers on each end), cap 'em up and you're good to go. If you have a leaking fork seal(s), now would be a good time to change them. You won't need the extra lipped seal now because you won't be filling them with air. Big handling improvement. The spacers and washers are included with the springs.
          2H7 (79)
          3H3

          "If it ain't broke, modify it"

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by BigDick View Post
            I thought I'd heard/read that non inflatables were run without oil or that there was less maintenance as far as fork seals and changing oil. ..........................

            Wrong. No oil=pogo stick.

            Better springs, yes.
            No air to fuss about, true.
            Oil and seals, same/same.
            XS1100SF
            XS1100F

            Comment


            • #7
              Yup ...

              Bikerphil ... ya' got me scratchin' my head. Just changed the fork seals on my G, as you know, and thank your input. but ... it was hard as hell to get the caps screwed back on. If not for the DiverRay patented notched 2x2 'fork cap driver' (free )... I might still be out there with aching hands tryin' to get them caps screwed in place with out stripping 'em. Couldn't imagine another 3 1/2 inch of main spring/spacer to have to compress in order to get that cap back on there

              BTW, changing seals and oil is really not that bad of a job ... with a few simple tools, home made and otherwise, it can be accomplished in a few hours. Everything I need to know to get the job done was right here on this site.
              80G Mini-bagger
              VM33 Smooth bores, Pods, 4/1 Supertrapp, SS brake lines, fork brace

              Past XS11s

              79F Stone stocker and former daily driver, sold May '10 now converting for N.O. to cafe style
              79SF eventually dismantled for parts
              79F Bought almost new in 80, sold for a house
              79F The Ernie bike sold to a Navy dude summer 08
              79SF Squared-off Special, Vetter/Bates tour pkg., Mikes XS coils, G rear fender and tail light. Sold June 09

              Comment


              • #8
                now i have another question, my bike is fairly young (12-14000 miles) when I brought her home yesterday i had ratchet straps on front and rear to keep her from jumping out of my truck. i saw that my forks were seeping oil from the dust caps. Does that mean my seals were bad or just normal from the compression? I didn't snug it down stupid tight, just enough to eliminate a lot of the suspension movement, it would still get 1/2-1" of flex when I'd hit a bump or pothole.
                1980 XS11SG
                Dunlop elite 3's, progressive fork springs, tkat brace
                Stock motor, airbox, carbs, exhaust
                ratted out, mean, and nasty

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by BigDick View Post
                  now i have another question, my bike is fairly young (12-14000 miles) when I brought her home yesterday i had ratchet straps on front and rear to keep her from jumping out of my truck. i saw that my forks were seeping oil from the dust caps. Does that mean my seals were bad or just normal from the compression? I didn't snug it down stupid tight, just enough to eliminate a lot of the suspension movement, it would still get 1/2-1" of flex when I'd hit a bump or pothole.
                  I wouldn't worry about it too much unless they leak during normal riding.
                  If they still had air in them, having them compressed for a long time may have overwhelmed the seals temporaily.
                  XS1100SF
                  XS1100F

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    A light film of oil on the inner (upper) tubes is normal. However, if you have fluid "seeping" out its time to replace the seals. Pretty simple job, as stated above. I have the Clymer's manual and this site, piece of cake. I think the seals were pretty cheap too... got them from MikesXS maybe? Or was it OldBikeBarn or the like... can't remember.

                    Either way, I figure yours need changed.

                    As far as the problems compressing the spring to get the caps on... it is tough, but I managed with no other tools than my paws and 10 digits.
                    Corey J. Bennett
                    '79 XS1100SF

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Couldn't imagine another 3 1/2 inch of main spring/spacer to have to compress in order to get that cap back on there
                      The spacer is ONLY for the Specials.
                      now i have another question, my bike is fairly young (12-14000 miles) when I brought her home yesterday i had ratchet straps on front and rear to keep her from jumping out of my truck. i saw that my forks were seeping oil from the dust caps. Does that mean my seals were bad or just normal from the compression? I didn't snug it down stupid tight, just enough to eliminate a lot of the suspension movement, it would still get 1/2-1" of flex when I'd hit a bump or pothole.
                      Because of AGE, I would put in new seals. You can also do an oline search for the fork springs. IIRC I paid about $75 Delivered for the set I put in daily ride.
                      Ray Matteis
                      KE6NHG
                      XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
                      XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Wouldn't ya' know ...

                        The spacer is ONLY for the Specials.
                        Thx, Ray .... I did look at the Haynes before getting confused and posting ...all I saw was the one fork .... will wonders never cease?? Guess I'll see what ya' mean as my SF in next up for a seal change too once the weather clears enough to work on it.

                        that my forks were seeping oil from the dust caps
                        My forks were leaking oil down the lower fork leg which turned into a greasy black goo ... I read somewhere that someone uses a little spritz of carb cleaner to soften them .... I guessed (correctly) that my seals were toast and beyond a carb spritz fix ... they did turn out to be cracked and hard as a rock when I got 'em out. Ray is definately right... put some new ones in there. Partsnmore.com had the best price I could find ... about 10 bucks a set, IIRC.
                        80G Mini-bagger
                        VM33 Smooth bores, Pods, 4/1 Supertrapp, SS brake lines, fork brace

                        Past XS11s

                        79F Stone stocker and former daily driver, sold May '10 now converting for N.O. to cafe style
                        79SF eventually dismantled for parts
                        79F Bought almost new in 80, sold for a house
                        79F The Ernie bike sold to a Navy dude summer 08
                        79SF Squared-off Special, Vetter/Bates tour pkg., Mikes XS coils, G rear fender and tail light. Sold June 09

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by thewiz View Post
                          Bikerphil ... ya' got me scratchin' my head. Just changed the fork seals on my G, as you know, and thank your input. but ... it was hard as hell to get the caps screwed back on. If not for the DiverRay patented notched 2x2 'fork cap driver' (free )... I might still be out there with aching hands tryin' to get them caps screwed in place with out stripping 'em. Couldn't imagine another 3 1/2 inch of main spring/spacer to have to compress in order to get that cap back on there
                          Lol, yep, that would be hard to do on a Standard. The method I use to get those air caps back on is: Take out the valve assembly first (10mm), then I use a 1/2" drive, 6pt. 15/16" socket and a 6" extension and ratchet handle to press 'em down and get 'em started. Then when they are down all the way, tighten up with a cresent wrench. This way will ding them up slightly, so Ray's method would be better if you're worried about a few nicks.
                          2H7 (79)
                          3H3

                          "If it ain't broke, modify it"

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Same kit does both.

                            Hi BigDick,
                            I replaced my Special's springs and seals last spring. Those funny front calipers hardly work at all once the brake pads are soaked in fork oil. I got a right forearm like Popeye's trying to ride like that.
                            The Progressive Spring Co markets the same kit for the Standard and for the Special. The kit includes a length of plastic tubing that you don't need on the Standard but you cut spacers off to the length it tells you on the Special.
                            This is because the Special has longer fork tubes and it's cheaper to only sell one kit. A good side effect of this economy is that the shorter replacement springs are stiffer than the original ones.
                            BTW, do take the opportunity to replace the fork seals even if they don't seem to leak, you got a free teardown, right? And totally clean the fork innards too.
                            Even though the bike has low mileage there could be 30 years-worth of crud in there.
                            Fred Hill, S'toon
                            XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
                            "The Flying Pumpkin"

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Was riding the day before yesterday ...

                              for the first time out since I changed my G's fork seals. What a pleasant improvement ... was a dream to ride on a solid, responsive front end as opposed to the squishy, spongy way it was ... I actually regret procrastinating the job for as long as I did. All I can say is: Your gonna' like the results once you get 'er done, BigDick !!
                              80G Mini-bagger
                              VM33 Smooth bores, Pods, 4/1 Supertrapp, SS brake lines, fork brace

                              Past XS11s

                              79F Stone stocker and former daily driver, sold May '10 now converting for N.O. to cafe style
                              79SF eventually dismantled for parts
                              79F Bought almost new in 80, sold for a house
                              79F The Ernie bike sold to a Navy dude summer 08
                              79SF Squared-off Special, Vetter/Bates tour pkg., Mikes XS coils, G rear fender and tail light. Sold June 09

                              Comment

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