Ignition Lock Repair

[robert_hollis]

I recently purchased a 1979 XS1100SF with no key. I had the fun of taking the ignition lock off the bike to have a key made for it. Unfortunately the locksmith I took it to was not too familiar with old motorcycle keys. He tried to cut me a key using the lock code, but it only worked on the gas tank lock. So, I checked out the previous posts on this forum, and using the information posted by Prometheus I was able to get the lock apart and the cylinder out. I decided to make things a little easier for the next person by taking a bunch of pictures of the disassembly, and posting them for your viewing pleasure. The pictures aren't the most amazing, but then again I'm no photographer and I was using a 2 megapixel cell phone camera. I have posted all of the pictures on my Picasa account, with descriptions for some of them. There is a lot of repetition in the pics, and some are blurry, but I didn't want to delete any just incase that pic had something helpful for someone.


Here's the link to my cylinder removal guide:
http://picasaweb.google.com/hollisr4...eat=directlink

Hope someone finds it useful.

-Rob

[tarzan]

So are all the locks the same code number or are they dfferent.I had that problem when I bought mine and.My locksmith had the book to reference the number but didnt have the exact blank but found one that works.The key fits all my locks.So did you take the lock apart to install new tumblers?

[Ivan]

My bike uses a subaru blank, instead of the Yamaha. Looks like hell, but my Cherry Bomb Exhaust keeps the attention away from the key.

If you find a lock smith that knows what he is doing, he can cut the key with some hadd files and looking at the witness marks on the key blank. He will twist around on the key and file a bit, and twist some more, and finally it will unlock. Truly an amazing process.

If you need it faster and cheaper, a pack of smokes and an intercity kid will have it undone in 20 seconds.

[prometheus578]

"Unlocking the mysteries..."

Mr. Hollis...
That was excellent work!

[Rasputin]

agree

I agree with Prom. That was an excellent tutorial. I wish more members would take step by step pics. That way when I was taking pics of mine I could decide just where it was when I fuched it up, and then correct it by looking at your pics..lol. Very nicely done Robert.

[prometheus578]

Also of interest... those brass contacts shown in photo #6.
When they get corroded or carbon pitted your key sometimes won't work. What I mean is... the bike won't crank and you have to jiggle the key to get the "dash lights" to turn on.
Cleaning those contacts fixes that problem.

[wa407mpp]

Those points should be coated with a little dielectric grease to prevent arcing and keep them working smooth . Wafer locks were meant to be lubed with a light grease not graphite, in fact lock graphite is a big ripoff and will ruin a lock. and if it leaks into the points of a lock will short it out at the worst time. Most U.S. car locks are made by one company StraTec, which makes a great lock grease that usually be acquired at a lock shop or maybe an auto parts store. It comes in a tube and you squirt it in the key hole then carefully work the key in and out a few times to work it in the spaces around the wafers and plug. There is also a lube called Lock Shot that is good too, but very expensive. Most good lock shops will lube peoples locks for free, it's a public relations thing and it's good for business.

[robert_hollis]

Well I'm glad to hear all that. I will (eventually) make some changes to the info on the guide to reflect this added information. I actually did use dielectric grease on the contacts, and some teflon lube for the lock. I probably would have goofed and used graphite had there been any lying around, though...

Also, I didn't notice any numbers stamped into the tumblers (I wasn't looking), but I've heard that they usually have numbers which correspond with the lock code. So, a lock with code 3190 would have four tumblers numbered 3,1,9,0 in that order. I guess I could take the lock back apart to check the tumblers, but I'm kinda lazy...

-Rob

[wa407mpp]

No, the numbers of a key code don't correspond with the key cuts, they are a code used to look up the cuts in a code book or a computer program. Most times different manufactures will use the same codes for their locks, but the cuts and key blanks will be different. Some of the residential lock Manufactures, like Schlage and Wieser, will stamp their keys with numbers, which do represent the cut depths on their keys but not all of them. By measuring the pins or wafers of a lock you can make a key without a code if you know the manufactures standards. And don't get too excited about the numbers stamped on the wafers, some of the companies purposely mis-stamp the numbers, a 2 is a 3 or a 4 is a 1 type of thing. This thing is getting too long, so if anyone has a problem with a lock, or just wants to ask a question pm me and I will help you if I can, but no I wont tell you how to pick a lock or open a safe.