I would like to eliminate handlebar vibration or lesson it as much as possible. Tired of my hands going numb. Last winter I filled the handlebars w/ sand and plugged the end w/ silicone. The other end has a metal plug welded in, factory job. It might have helped but not much. Anybody ever fill the bars w/ lead shot? What have you guys tried that works, or not.
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Maybe gel grips would help. Just a thought, if the bike is running too lean, it'll cause bad vibrations. Also loose or cracked exhaust system will contribute.2H7 (79) owned since '89
3H3 owned since '06
"If it ain't broke, modify it"
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I have the stock throttle hand grip because i like what that looks like and have a gel grip for the other side.I got tired of seeing the open hole at the end of the handlebar so i have a end piece that are used on sport bikes.No vibrations here.1980 XS1100 SG
Inline fuel filters
New wires in old coils-outer spark plugs
160 mph speedometer mod
Kerker Exhaust
xschop K & N air filter setup
Dynojet Recalibration kit
1999 Kawasaki ZRX1100
1997 Jeep Cherokee 4.5"lift installed
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Originally posted by bikerphil View PostAlso loose or cracked exhaust system will contribute.
My vibration, bugged me for a long time.....it was the exhaust 'collectors' rubbing on the frame1980 XS11 Special aka The Monster
"My life used to be a Soap Opera, until I realized something, I own the network."
My Photo Bucket
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metal plug
That metal plug is really a metal bar about 8" long welded in the handlebar at the factory to reduce vibration caused by the gap between the throttle sleeve and the bar. Some people fill their bars with lead shot, spray foam or vibration weights at the end of the bars, to help dampen the vibration, you will probably never get rid of all the vibration, but you can change the harmonics of it so it is easier to live with. Does it vibrate all the time or just at a certain speed or RPM? If it is all the time go over it with a torque wrench and check everything especially the motor mount bolts and exhaust then double check your tune-up, tires and wheels. After you've minimized it as much as possible, then try to move it to a harmonic frequency that is less noticeable or if that fails to an RPM or speed you don't very use often like 55 mph. You can do this by adding weights,and or foam or even changing the bars. I hope this helps.Fastmover
"Just plant us in the damn garden with the stupid
lion". SHL
78 XS1100e
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Had the same problem ...
and still do from time to time. Big factors in reducing the numbness for me were, changing to a big sloppy fitting pair of gloves. I tended to buy them to snug fitting which cut off circulation. I also put set backs on one bike to bring the grips closer to me thus reducing the 'forward lean' and weight on the palms. I also adjusted the bars to a lower position thereby placing my hands and arms in a more natural position.
I still get some numbness sometimes but not nearly as much or as often anymore. I have a pretty good case of CTS too. Also ..if I ride early in the AM it is worse, later is better. I believe (but I haven't tried yet) that a heating pad on the forearms immediately before riding would help too .... I think that because right after a steam or sauna and for about 24 hours I never have any numbness in the hands ....my two cents, bro' ... I do feel your pain. Hope something helps .... I had a thread a year ago on this issue and I think I tried damn near everything everyone mentioned including grip weights ... had to try to get some relief.80G Mini-bagger
VM33 Smooth bores, Pods, 4/1 Supertrapp, SS brake lines, fork brace
Past XS11s
79F Stone stocker and former daily driver, sold May '10 now converting for N.O. to cafe style
79SF eventually dismantled for parts
79F Bought almost new in 80, sold for a house
79F The Ernie bike sold to a Navy dude summer 08
79SF Squared-off Special, Vetter/Bates tour pkg., Mikes XS coils, G rear fender and tail light. Sold June 09
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Vibs
I have used lead shot in the past- it seemed to work quite well. My current 80 Special does not vibrate the bars enough to worry about. No tingle even after 500 mile days- not sure why- but I'll take it. My 82 XJ vibrated like crazy- especially on the throttle side- used lead shot and it quelled the buzz about 50%. I have used construction foam also- it works- but not as well.
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Originally posted by bikerphil View PostMaybe gel grips would help. Just a thought, if the bike is running too lean, it'll cause bad vibrations. Also loose or cracked exhaust system will contribute.1980 Xs1100 MNS Sold for $1800
2004 Roadstar XV1700
45 to 50 MPG
Ask Jesus for Forgiveness before it is too late!
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I think the tuning is fine,synced, medium tan plugs. Exhaust is good. No rubbing, loose or cracks that I can see anyway. Front tire is scalloped, I have a new one that I planned on changing anyway. The metal plug/bar is on the left side and the right mirror vibs more than the left and my right hand gets numb sooner than the left also, maybe partly do to gripping the throttle. Thought about adding a plug on the right and filling w/ lead shot but I wanted to be sure the shot will help before I weld it shut. My usual speed is 60 mph, 3100/3200 rpm. Vib isn't terrible just enough to numb my hands after about 40 minutes. At about 3500 to 3800 rpm vib gets worse then subsides above that but that isn't my complaint. I will double check everything. I appreciate all the input.79 F full cruiser, stainless brake lines, spade fuses, Accel coils, modded air box w/larger velocity stacks, 750 FD.
79 SF parts bike.
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Adding shot will change the frequency band of where the bars will buzz. I had a buzz in the 3,500-4,000 RPM range where I do alot of riding. I added #7 lead shot and plugged the end of the tube with a dab of urethane sealant and it changed the frequency enough that I do not notice the buzz anymore.
Its worth a try.Mike Giroir
79 XS-1100 Special
Once you un-can a can of worms, the only way to re-can them is with a bigger can.
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What vibration?
Before I bought my XS11 I rode an XS650 for 16 years. Compared to that the XS11 runs smooth as silk.
First find out what's shaking and fix it. Then fill your bars with a slurry of fine lead shot and RTV compound.
That fixed the vibration on my XS650, afterwards it was so smooth you could almost see things in the mirrors.
Mind you, it didn't stop the screws holding down the speedometer dial from vibrating loose. A pure joy to fix, that was.Last edited by fredintoon; 01-29-2009, 01:17 PM.Fred Hill, S'toon
XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
"The Flying Pumpkin"
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Bar vibe....
RedBandit....
looks like you have tried everything..... have you correctly tensioned the engine mounts? loose mounts can be a factor.
I expected 'bar and foot peg vibes after I replaced the rubber engine mounts with aluminum plugs (made the engine integral with the frame -improved handling) the throttle side bar did have a nasty vibe at around 90kms/hr in top gear - I used 3 off 80gm lead fishing sinkers, belted them into a cylinder shape and then knocked them into the bar end (they needed some persuasion but being soft the lead fitted tight as a drum) and end of problem.
Bryan H
"Conan, what's best in life?"
"To crush your enemies, drive them before you and the lamentation of their women"
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I always look at the mirrors to tell if things vibrated because if the mirrors are shaking at speed than things will start to buzz.My first 1999 Kawasaki ZRX 1100 the handlebars made the hands go numb 20 minutes into the ride.Changing the grips helped solve that problem.The factory seat also made my ass and legs go numb after riding for 20 minutes or more.I finally had to change the seat in order to ride that thing.I tried different mirrors on my SG but went back to stock and replaced the factory bars with a set of K & N bars that i bought in the late 80's.A properly tuned engine will help alot with vibrations also try different grips.1980 XS1100 SG
Inline fuel filters
New wires in old coils-outer spark plugs
160 mph speedometer mod
Kerker Exhaust
xschop K & N air filter setup
Dynojet Recalibration kit
1999 Kawasaki ZRX1100
1997 Jeep Cherokee 4.5"lift installed
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