Is this carb related?

[DGXSER]

Ok..Gonna find some better fuel line. Not even gonna hook that auto stuff up again. Way to tired of pulling these carbs and messing with leaking brand new float valves and seats.

WA407mpp - I have a special so my petcocks are completely manual, used to have the octy, but I ditched it. I think that initially I was getting air locked due to fuel line rising higher than the petcock with the inline filters sitting on top of the air inlets and enough line to hook them up before I drop the tank in place so I can get to the clamps.

I won't know for sure till I get the new fuel line, and hopefully (O blessed mother of carburation please!!) get the carbs mounted without a danged float issue. (Serenity Now, SERENITY NOW) in my best Jerry Stiller voice. Yes I like Seinfeld. Since I now know my petcock filters are 100% intact and mounted right where they should be, I may skip the in line filters with the new fuel line, that hopefully won't tear and enter my carbs.

[DGXSER]

I once again seem to have float valves that work. Crossing everything I own that they continue that way. I have temporarily installed the tank backwards with some yellow vinyl type fuel line from HD for use on lawn mowers. Still trying to find a local source for the Viton.

I also took all of my plug caps off and snipped the wires a 1/4" or so. A couple seemed to come off easier than they should have. It definitely fires up easy and runs fine with no load. I did put it in gear on the center stand and it does ok. Hard to tell as I am trying to bring it up to speed from 1k rpm which you never do in real riding (at least I don't), and I am certain it was not really warmed up properly.

I did run the charging test, 11.8 amps at idle, 13.6 or so at 3k rpm. Where am I suppose tot ake the red and white wire loose at, right at the coils? Did not check that yet.

It is still very much ice and snow around here so no riding to be done any time soon. Maybe in a week. 40 tomorrow, but my drive is still an ice rink. No ice tires for the XS.

[bikerphil]

Where am I suppose tot ake the red and white wire loose at, right at the coils?

To check voltage, yes, the double connector at the coils under the tank. Positive lead of test meter to that plug, neg. to ground, key on. It's normal for it not to be quite 12V, more like between 11 & 12.

[TopCatGr58]

I did run the charging test, 11.8 amps at idle, 13.6 or so at 3k rpm. Where am I suppose tot ake the red and white wire loose at, right at the coils? Did not check that yet.

Hey DG,

I think you meant VOLTS, how long did you hold it at 3k? 13.6 seems a bit low, supposed to go to about 14.5. Have you checked and cleaned the wires where the voltage regulator attaches to the frame, along with the bundle of 3 white wire plugs behind the fuse panel that come from the ALT? Also, both the battery to frame ground contact, as well as the engine to frame ground behind the tranny/middle drive??
T.C.

[DGXSER]

Thanks Phil, I'll check that tomorrow.

TC, yes i meant volts. I was just twistign the throttle up to about 3k and letting it go right back and it would ramp up to about 13.7 or so.

Honestly, I have not cleaned any wiring on the bike. Will start with that. tomorrow as well.

[DGXSER]

Phil, for those of us that are mentally challenged at times, when documenting this procedure, be sure to remind us to turn the emergency shut off switch to ON. After doing that, I got 11.04 volts on the red and white wire to the coils.

I alos held the engine at 3k to repeat the voltage test, and no matter how long I held it, it was right at 13.6 volts. It may be worth noting that I am reading the voltage on the battery tender connectors, although that should not really make a difference. I then went through cleaning all the grounds TC listed. Every one of them looked clean at the actual connection surface, but I cleaned them up anyway. Have not had a chance to retest yet.

I ill preface my next discovery with the fact that I am nearing empty on my gas, so I found my fuel lines empty s I was running the test on the 3-4 bank and had to lift the front of the tank to get fuel. When I pulled the plugs this time, I found that 1-2 were suity on the electrodes and 2 had some on the insulator as well. 3-4 were a little tan on the insulator with grey on the electrodes. All of this wiped off pretty easily.

I can not really tell you if it is running bad as I can't ride it just yet due to snow and ice even though it was almost 50 today, my drive is still thawing out. Not going down on my driveway over rushing things. The neighbor would never let me here the end of it.

[bikerphil]

DG, the connector(s) to check regarding the 13.6 volts instead of 14.5 would be the alternator connection behind the fuse panel. It has (I think), 3 or 4 white wires. These corrode up and sometimes even melt. Also the Voltage regulator connectors under the tank. With the kill switch, BTDT.

[DGXSER]

Thanks Phil, something else I can do in the garage while I watch the snow and ice melt.

Perhaps I can even get one of those new fangled fuse boxes from TC and replace the ole glass ones while I got it out.

[Larrym]

Carbs luv me....Carbs luv me not....(repeat as needed)

DGXSER,

Somewhere I've missed something here...

Have you ruled out that the problem was in the carbs?

I know that since the weather isn't cooperating with you (or me either...) haven't done a test ride. (nice to head out into the mancave and chase any/all those Iffy connections/grounding points!)

[DGXSER]

Larry, no, I have not ruled out that the carbs and possible flooding and low fuel in the tank may have been the issue. Gotta check that bulb, not lighting but definitely low. Good news is my oil does not smell like gas, so it all seems to have run to the air box.

As noted, the problem is under load and I can't really test it until the weather cooperates. Heck, schools were closed since Tuesday around here. And now, everything that melted will freeze up in a nice smooth glass like ice. Sometimes I think it might be better to live where winter just stays until the spring.....Naaahhh.

[bikerphil]

Perhaps I can even get one of those new fangled fuse boxes from TC and replace the ole glass ones while I got it out.

Yes, that will eliminate many electrical gremlins and save you from many headaches down the road. Contact cleaner and di-electric grease is a good idea on those connectors.

[DGXSER]

I looked into all of the connectors mentioned, both of the connectors from the alternator behind the fuse panel, the voltage regulator connector, did have one connector in there that had some green on it. Need to buy some of the contact cleaner and di-electric grease. Might stop at RS for those 90 degree connectors.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey DG,
Don't forget to completely remove the 2 screws holding down the Volt Reg/Rect, and clean the casing, and where the screws contact and hold it down, it grounds there as well. Yep, a new fuseholder would help for sure. I'm expecting a new batch in a couple of days or so, just sold the last one this weekend, but I try to keep them in stock.
T.C.

[DiverRay]

DG, while your at RS, get a tube of "NO-OX". I use it ONLY on all the ground points. It is VERY CONDUCTIVE, unlike the dielectric grease. As a HAM radio operator, I've been using it to mount antennas for a few years.

[DGXSER]

It has returned!!! for now!?!

Fired right up, idled ok, had to go to reserves, and idled fine, took up for fuel and ran good, stayed in low RPM as fule light was on and I had no idea how low it was, and REALLY did not want to push to the gas station.

Got fuel, and hammerd it through first three gears and pulled like the beast, ran great.

Thanks to all for all the great help. Realistacly, I think the fuel was the issue, but it certainly did not hurt to test the electrical out and clean things up.