Installing new cam chain.

[Gyrogearloose]

Hi all. Need some advice from those that have done this.
I'm in the middle of the "winter tune-up". I have measured valve clearances, and then removed the cams and put in the new shims. Also have used a dremmel tool to cut the old chain. Now I have a new chain and master link and plan to use the old chain to pull the new one through. It seems like a two-man job; keeping tension on the chain around the crank, and turning the crank with a 19mm wrench. Does the crank (and thus the pistons) care what revolution they're on? I mean do I need to keep track of which TDC the crank is on before I install the cams? ...compression stroke or exhaust stroke? Also when is the best time to rivet the new chain, before I install the cams and sprockets?..or can I do it after the cams and sprockets are in? What kind of issues will I encounter when compressing the valves and installing the cam bearing caps? I know this is more than one question I'm posting here, but I feel a little unsure at this point and don't want to end up...messed up. Thanks to all for their replys.

[ccogswel]

Well I have never had to do it yet. But I can tell you that if you plan to hook your new chain to the old one and pull it through you may want to do it before you put your cams back in. If you rotate the crank with them in you may bend a valve. That would suck. As for the TDC you can set that back after you get the chain back on. Then align everything back up. But like I said I have never done it so I may be wrong with some of what I say. But the part about pending valves is right. Hopefully someone here who has done it before will have better advice. But to me it should be almost like on a car. You set up TDC and set the cam where it needs to sit at and set it. Then you should be good to go.

Good Luck!

[bikerphil]

cam chain

With the cams out, you don't have to worry about bending any valves. With the bike on the centerstand (important the engine is level), attach the end of the new chain to the old one and fish it thru, Make sure it is wired to the old chain so it won't come loose, or you're screwed. There is room for it below the crankshaft, so you shouldn't have to turn the crank. Once it's up, use your riveting tool to join the master link. Follow the instructions in your manual for installing the cams with the crank at TDC. Make sure the chain is actually on the crankshaft teeth by looking down with a flashlight. Sometimes it can be off to the side.

[DiverRay]

You do NOT need to remove the cams, or turn the crank, to install a new chain. BTDT!!
Start with the crank at TDC NOT at the "C" mark. As you have the old link cut, use a short bit of wire to put the new chain on the old one. You then feed it past the crank gear by giving it a little slack, and then pulling. Keeping the crank on DTC, and the marks on the cams aligned with the arrows on the cam caps, install the new master link. Check for proper alignment BEFORE the final install of the master link.
After fighting a cam chain for a full day, this IS the easiest way.

[trbig]

As far as the TDC question. The piston comes up once for a compression stroke, then comes to TDC for the end of the exhaust stroke. The piston is just going up and down and doesn't care. What makes it the top of a compression stroke or the top of an exhaust stroke is the cams/valves. Just put the piston to the TDC.. then when you install the cams and align the marks.. it will be correct.

As far as moving the crank to get the cam chain around.. it won't be needed. Just keep it slack and it will go.

As noted...Before turning anything.. BE SURE TO CHECK that the cam chain is around the crank sprocket after you get the cams in. I bent a bunch of valves by not checking.

Also, when you go to install the bolts in the cam sprockets, you are going to have to turn the crank to get to the other sprocket bolt. Stick your finger into the hole where the cam chain tensioner goes and push against that bar in there and hold tension on the chain so it doesn't jump a tooth.

OK.. and ANOTHER thing.. lol. When you go to install the chain onto the sprockets, then the sprockets onto the cam shoulders, if you keep the chain tight between the crank and the intake cam on the back side of the motor, it will be in time when you're done. If you leave slack.. when you go to turn the crank to turn the cams, it will first pull that slack out of the chain before it starts pulling that cam.. making it a tooth of. Then you get to do it all again.

When installing the bearings, the cams are going to want to turn slightly off the timed mark. Be easy and read the instructions on cap assembly.. then use a wrench or something and turn the cams back to time. Take care not to get the wrench against the head housing when doing this. It could crack it.

As Ray stated, you don't have to remove the cams to change the chain.. but it sure makes it easier to change several shims that way.

Tod

[Gyrogearloose]

Hey there! Thanks guys, all good advice. I feel better now about proceding and will definitely WIRE the two chains together before pulling them through. I had thought I might just kindof' "stick" the new master link on and finish it later. Good advice too about keeping the slack out between the intake and the crank; I don't want to be a tooth off when I get ready to spin it. Now I have brakes and fork seals to tackle; I might have some questions there, too, as I haven't done any of this before. I can't wait to RIDE and....STOP!

[Jerry]

Here is the thread that was generated when I bennt some valves, includeds a photo or two that might help when installing the new cam chain:
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...hlight=screwed