Forks - again

[MartyA]

Maybe I am just thick headed, but I did a search and I am not finding what I think I need to know. This spring the front end is diving pretty good on braking, not at all like last year, and feels a little spindly, so I want to replace the fork oil. The seals are good, no leaks anywhere, replaced 3 years ago. I have a 78E, tell me what I am looking at and what I need to do, please. My Clymers is not showing me what (I think) I need to know. It shows a blow-up of the forks for an 80 with air valve tops, but I have never been into the forks so I am not sure by looking at that blow-up what is connected to what.

I jacked the front up and then I took off the rubber caps on the top and see a large hex nut with a slotted (screw?) sunk down in there.

Do I just unscrew the hex nut? Is it going to spring up, or is something going to drop down into the fork? Does that screw come with it? What comes out when I unscrew that hex nut? Is that where I pour in the oil? Is this the correct way to put the new oil in? Draining the old seems to be straight forward.

I read in an old post that the screw is a three-position pre-load adjustment. That is not in my Clymers. What are the positions? Does it click, or do you count the turns, like a carb adjustment? Does it need adjustment after the hex nut is replaced?

I don't need to mess with the seals since they are not leaking, I don't think I have to tear the forks completely down, I just want to get some fresh oil in there so I can ride. Straight line and bumps are OK right now, mostly it is just braking and the cornering that feels a little weird. Maybe next spring I will spring for new springs.

Thanks for the help!!

[sksxs1100]

the screw head has three positions. it comes out with the fork cap. when you inscrew the hex nut, it will pop up some so just have your hand over it to keep from dropping it. nothing will fall into the fork. there is a spacer between the spring and the fork cap. It is actually real easy to do just when you go to screw the cap back in, dont cross tread it

[MartyA]

Thanks Shawn!

I pour the oil in where the hex nut is?

How do I adjust the screw head? Or should I just leave it, after I put the hex nut back in? Is it still the same adjustment as it was prior to removing the hex nut? It seems to have been fine for many years.

[uk1.1s]

Forks....

Marty,

I think you are there. If you have an oil drain hole at the bottom of the fork tube somewhere (my '82 air fork model doesn't have this) then getting rid of old oil is a doddle.

Unscrew the hex as sksxs1100 says and it will 'pop up' a little - nothing too violent without any load on it, but best to have your hand over it - or a rag and hand combination to cushion any blow (one of my garage mottos is that if I'm not bruised or bleeding after job then I haven't done it right). The preload 'pop' of the hex is not that bad honest .

As long as you have secured the drain screw after getting rid of the old oil then new oil can go right in. I guessing the central screw is the preload setting (as on some other bikes I've had - my XS has air forks so a bit different). So refitting the cap without tampering with the screw inside the hex will be OK to keep the setting you have ridden with.

Job done - good luck

Just to complicate things - getting the right fork oil volume/level is quite important. If you are taking apart the whole of the forks, then I'd recommend an oil level measurement with the forks fully compressed - by the sounds of things you are doing a more simple job - with the wheel in place and it would be much more straight forward to add the volume given in the manual rather than messing about with oil levels. I think the 'Progressive Spring' website has the measured level method if anyone is interested.

[MartyA]

You guys are too good to me. Thanks!

I will drain the oil out the bottom, maybe bounse it a little to see if any pumps out. I will measure the correct 212cc with my graduated syringe and put the hex back in.

Thanks again!!

[nashville_bill]

Marty,

Back off the tension adjustment screw befor you take the nut off and you will have less spring tension to send the nut and adjuster flying when it come out. The screw just sets a pre-load on the spring, like the ones on the back shocks. It has three positions so you can set it for light, medium, or heavy to suit your situation.

I just rebuilt the forks on my XS650 and they are just like yours.

Good luck!

[MartyA]

Thanks Bill. That tension screw is the one down in the hex nut? How is it adjusted? Click left for soft, or so many turns? Or in all the way is hard, back off for softer ride.

As I mentioned, nothing in my Clymers about this adjustment. I am wondering if that is all I need? I had the fork oil replaced 4 years ago, but only about 4,000 miles, and it was fine last fall before I put it away. And there is no leaking around the dust covers, so I am thinking my seals are still good.
Thanks again.

[nashville_bill]

Marty,

That's the one, alright. There are three positions with the most clockwise one being the heavy one. It is less than one turn from lightest to heaviest. You will see the screw go down when you turn to the heavy position. The other end of the screw pushes down on the spring to make more, or less, tension.

[dwales]

The screw actually is a cam, just like the preload adjuster on the rear shocks.

[MartyA]

Thanks Bill! I understand better.

Hi Dave! Survived the winter I see.

[MartyA]

Yep, just like you fellers described. I drained the old stuff, was nice and clean, then I backed off the preload, unscrewed the caps, added the new oil, and fought the caps for a minute. The trick is to turn your hand all the way left, push down and vigorously shake the cap back and forth while turning to the right and it starts easily. Then I added the preload back.

Bad news is the forks still travel too much. The springs must have retired themselves over the winter. I will have to try it out to see just how bad it is on the road, may have to order new springs.

Thanks for all the help!! Terrific group.

[RiskyBusiness]

Marty, I just bought new progressive springs for my bike. My old one's weren't shot yet, but I am single and had a little money to burn on the bike. If you are on a budget and want to try my old springs I will give them to you. You pay shipping and you can have them. The only caveat, however, is that it may be a couple of weeks before I get the new ones on. I have a big deadline at work coming up. Email me if you want them: james_agrisk at hotmail.com (obvious fixes to the email address apply).

[Robert Haller]

James,

I'm curious to hear what you think of the progressive springs, that's a mod I have considered.

[MartyA]

Thanks Risky. Email me when you have made the change. First I am going to cheat a little and add an inch or so of preload. I work in a powder metal plant and there are a couple of parts that will drop right in, on top of the spring and under the spacer under the fork cap. Might get by with that for a while.

[jimg1au]

fork springs

hi
i have just finished putting progressive fork springs in my bike.best move i did.if you have a std you dont need a spacer if you have a special or xs1100sport or xs1100rh you will need a 3.5inch spacer.all instructions come with the springs.this is an easy job.you dont need to put air in the forks if you have air caps