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  • front caliper

    I looked in the links section but have a couple questions regarding my front brake caliper-right side.With the caliper removed from the bike and cleaned of all fluid,should i be able to by hand- push the piston inwards?or will this be difficult?The reason i asked this is because there is rust on the top of the piston where it pushes the pad against the disc.Is that OK?I looked at the piston and it looked to be in decent shape-no marks on it.When i tried to push the piston back into the caliper it wont go easily.The o-ring that is in the caliper -can that be replaced?What is the best way to get the piston to move inwards?The area the piston goes into is clean of rust.Can i use some sort of lubrication on the inside?
    1980 XS1100 SG
    Inline fuel filters
    New wires in old coils-outer spark plugs
    160 mph speedometer mod
    Kerker Exhaust
    xschop K & N air filter setup
    Dynojet Recalibration kit
    1999 Kawasaki ZRX1100
    1997 Jeep Cherokee 4.5"lift installed

  • #2
    If you have the piston out of the caliper, you can use a pick and remove the O-ring. There is usually a build up of gunk behind that O-ring which makes it hard to move the piston. Once you have the O-ring out you can clean the groove it sits in. New O-rings are available and com in the rebuild kits. I got mine from georgefix on ebay. You can use some very fine emery paper or sandpaper to clean any rust etc off of the piston as well. I found the piston hard to push in when i did it until I used a swipe of brake fluid for lubrication and then it went in smoothly. Hope some of this helps.
    2-79 XS1100 SF
    2-78 XS1100 E Best bike Ever
    80 XS 1100 SG Big bore kit but not fully running yet.
    Couple of more parts bikes of which 2 more will live!

    Comment


    • #3
      I removed the o-ring and there was junk underneath.Once i clean that up should the piston move freely inside the caliper?
      1980 XS1100 SG
      Inline fuel filters
      New wires in old coils-outer spark plugs
      160 mph speedometer mod
      Kerker Exhaust
      xschop K & N air filter setup
      Dynojet Recalibration kit
      1999 Kawasaki ZRX1100
      1997 Jeep Cherokee 4.5"lift installed

      Comment


      • #4
        Let's see...
        Yeah, it may be a little difficult to push the piston back in. Not really difficult, but there will be some slight resistance.
        You're dealing with a machined fit, sort of. Very close tolerances... not much wall to wall clearance.
        And that rubber, square-sided, O-ring gasket doesn't make things easier.
        But yes, you should be able to push the piston back in.. though it will be difficult to pull back out again.
        This is as it should be.
        I usually take a real fine grit sandpaper and polish up the piston and the caliper bore. Piston should slide pretty nicely(with the O-ring removed)
        Never had to replace the O-ring. Never saw one go bad (Just don't clean or soak them in Brakleen... they swell up and are then useless!)
        Clean the dried gunk offa the o ring... just scraping it with your thumb nail is fine. Anything harder(sharper) and you could gouge it and it won't seal.
        Don't forget to take an angled pointy thing and clean out the groove that the O-ring fits into. Calipers hang when the dried out brake fluid behind that O ring builds up and pushes the O-ring tighter into the piston.
        No lubricants... just brake fluid. (lubricants may not be chemically compatable with brake fluid.)
        Don't worry about the rust on the piston where it meets the pad.
        Last edited by prometheus578; 12-30-2008, 08:07 PM. Reason: Not fair... let me finish typing before everyone replies and makes me look like an idiot.!
        "Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)

        Comment


        • #5
          Fairly freely. With a little brake fluid on it mine went in with a one finger touch after enough of it was past the oring. It cant be too hard to push in or your brakes would not release.
          2-79 XS1100 SF
          2-78 XS1100 E Best bike Ever
          80 XS 1100 SG Big bore kit but not fully running yet.
          Couple of more parts bikes of which 2 more will live!

          Comment


          • #6
            I will try that tomorrow.That was my problem as the brakes would not release.
            1980 XS1100 SG
            Inline fuel filters
            New wires in old coils-outer spark plugs
            160 mph speedometer mod
            Kerker Exhaust
            xschop K & N air filter setup
            Dynojet Recalibration kit
            1999 Kawasaki ZRX1100
            1997 Jeep Cherokee 4.5"lift installed

            Comment


            • #7
              Oldyam,

              I had the same issue when I got my XS. front brakes grabbed and it was hard to even move the bike until it was riden a a few miles then they worked ok until they cooled back off. Then tight again. I cleaned the spooge hole in the master, and pulled both fronts off and apart (one at atime) used the same o-rings and seals that are most likely original to the bike. Cleaned that groove very carefully and completely, and used brake fluid to lubricate just as the others have suggested (possibly the same guys who told me how to do mine as well). Plenty of gunk in there on mine. Slid back together nicely once you get the bottom lip of the piston over the o-ring.

              One other item, is the bolt that holds the caliper on the Special models. Mine was just ever so slightly bent in the threaded area. Replaced it as well. That seemed to make alot of difference too.

              Work like brand new brakes.
              Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

              When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

              81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
              80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


              Previously owned
              93 GSX600F
              80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
              81 XS1100 Special
              81 CB750 C
              80 CB750 C
              78 XS750

              Comment


              • #8
                having the opposite trouble as yam, need to remove my pistons to clean the rust out and change the o-ring, but can't get them out. don't want to do any damage, and wont come out with pumping of the brakes. any advice without doing damage??
                79xs11f - ugly as sin after sitting in a garage for 12 years, but rumbles like the beast that it is.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Surprisingly there was no rust behind the piston as i first thought.I thought that because of the rust the piston wont come out.I have a pair of rubber jawed pliers that i gave a slight twist to and held the caliper and hit it with a plastic mallet.I also soaked the caliper piston in penetrating fluid.
                  1980 XS1100 SG
                  Inline fuel filters
                  New wires in old coils-outer spark plugs
                  160 mph speedometer mod
                  Kerker Exhaust
                  xschop K & N air filter setup
                  Dynojet Recalibration kit
                  1999 Kawasaki ZRX1100
                  1997 Jeep Cherokee 4.5"lift installed

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Answer for The Duke:

                    Three old threads concerning removing brake caliper pistons, and rebuilding calipers, in general.




                    http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...compressed+air

                    http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...sed+air&page=2

                    http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...compressed+air
                    "Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Duke,

                      Not the qualified mechanic that some are for sure, but it seems odd that your master can't create the needed pressure to pop it out. Did you keep the master full of fluid as you pumped, not create an air pocket in the line?

                      If you have access to an air compressor, and I used that technique on my rear because I did not keep the fluid filled and lost the prime on it (don't do that on the rear MC for sure, what a PITA to get primed and bled). Just use the pressure regulator to keep the pressure down when you use that to pop it out. Only use the force required kind of idea. Mine did not ocme out violently, but there was enough crap behind it to make me cringe.
                      Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

                      When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

                      81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
                      80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


                      Previously owned
                      93 GSX600F
                      80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
                      81 XS1100 Special
                      81 CB750 C
                      80 CB750 C
                      78 XS750

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Today i took the caliper and lightly sanded the inside where the piston goes and took a toothpick and scrapped out the old dried brake fluid behind the o-ring.I lubed up the o-ring with brake fluid and installed the piston.It would not go in so i took a flat screwdriver and lightly scrapped the dried fluid off of the groove.Cleaned groove real good and installed o-ring again.Once the piston got past the o-ring groove it went in easy.Inserted tip of blow gun and using 10 psi was able to blow piston out.Piston again went back in.I only used 10 psi and that was enough to push the piston out.Any more than that and i think that it could break a bone if you don't move your hand.
                        1980 XS1100 SG
                        Inline fuel filters
                        New wires in old coils-outer spark plugs
                        160 mph speedometer mod
                        Kerker Exhaust
                        xschop K & N air filter setup
                        Dynojet Recalibration kit
                        1999 Kawasaki ZRX1100
                        1997 Jeep Cherokee 4.5"lift installed

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          caliper

                          Sounds like you got it straightened out. Don't forget to clean the cr ap out of the bleeder screw holes.
                          2H7 (79) owned since '89
                          3H3 owned since '06

                          "If it ain't broke, modify it"

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Will do.Thanks.Do i really need to put that boot on that covers the piston area?Are they available?Mine has seen better days.
                            1980 XS1100 SG
                            Inline fuel filters
                            New wires in old coils-outer spark plugs
                            160 mph speedometer mod
                            Kerker Exhaust
                            xschop K & N air filter setup
                            Dynojet Recalibration kit
                            1999 Kawasaki ZRX1100
                            1997 Jeep Cherokee 4.5"lift installed

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              boot

                              Yeah, you can get 'em if you order the caliper rebuild kit. I've fixed 'em before with some RTV black. All the boot does is keep the brake dust out. Fluid will never touch it and it won't be visible when it's on the bike.
                              2H7 (79) owned since '89
                              3H3 owned since '06

                              "If it ain't broke, modify it"

                              Comment

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