Carburation

[boyat68]

DGXSER:

If you have one of those pseudo credit cards lying around, you know, those imitations that credit card companies send to you in the mail, they make a wonderful go/nogo gauge. Just measure the distance you want and cut an "L" shape snip in the side. This way you can sweep the gauge over the top of the float, and any deflection means that you are too high or the float, floats too high. It is tough to try and measure with a rule. Just remember to cut a perfect 90 degree "L". Also remember that the height is measured with the carbs turned upside down. Also look up the Ken Talbot bench test apparatus. It gives you a chance to bench check your float operation of cutting off the fuel flow, and sticking floats or valves.

[DGXSER]

Ray and Boyat

Thanks for the tips, and no I have not bought a rebuild kit. Thought I could get away with just reusing the old parts, but sounds like that is NOT recommended. Oh,well. It is WAY to cold to ride anyway. Definitely like the credit card go-no go idea.

Now to figure out how to get the #4 mixture screw out. The PO really has me POd as they stripped the slot badly, especially on the removal side. I do not like the idea of drilling it out, but see no way to get another slot in it down in that tube. I think I will spray WD-40 down the tube and let it sit for a few days to see if it loosens enough to let the limited bite I can get on it do the trick.

[tarzan]

You can also heat the outside of the tube that the pilot screw is in with a propane torch.Just dont get it too hot.Aluminum has a higher expansion rate than the brass needle.Heat it up only around the area about 3/8 - 1/2 below the top of the tube. Maybe spray a shot of pb blaster down the tube (not while running the torch obviously).Then try and screw it out while still pretty warm.

[DGXSER]

Well, Now I have two of the pilot jets with the same thing going on. I even took a screwdriver and filed the end down to fit the width of the slots and they still want to strip the slot instead of turning. Is this normal or should I just take them to a shop? This brass stuff is so soft. Is WD-40 the right stuff to loosen these things up?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there DGXser,

WD-40 isn't that great for loosening up stuck screws like this. In the above post, the fellow mentioned PB Blaster, available at Wally World, and is a very good penetrating and loosening fluid.

Aside from the properly sized screw driver...I'm sure you checked to make sure it fits the slot of the pilot jet as well as down inside the tunnel, I encountered a few with BNE's machine, they started to strip, so I took a hammer, and tapped the screwdriver into the brass pilot jet, both the impact helped to break loose the jet, along with pushing the screwdriver tip further down INTO the jet for more grip! Heating the outside of the jet tower like mentioned above would also be good, the heating and cooling can also help work the corrosion loose that has partially fused the two differing metals together! Keep at it!
T.C.

[DGXSER]

Thansk for the suggestions. PB Blaster got one of the pilots out. The other I am concerned about as it has almost stripped completely around it. The mixture screw I am definitely letting the blaster seap into for a day or so and maybe try the heat to. At least I am down to two left.

I am wondering how hard to try to hit the screw driver into the pilot to try to let it eat deeper into the brass, if it will. With the hoel int he middle already, I am thinking about an easy out or somethign like that, but I dont want to expand the brass as that would just bind it to the aluminum more. Also how much heat is to much? A few seconds? a minute? I assume alot less than when I solder copper pipe.

Progress has been made. slow but sure like always.

Thansk for all the great tips!

[CatatonicBug]

I used an easy-out on 2 of mine. Worked like a charm. The heads had stripped off entirely, and the easy-out just dug right in and it came out super easy. Of course, it ruined the screw, but the way I figured, if it's that stuck, I don't want to use that one again anyway. I didn't need to add any heat or wd-40 to mine, but that might help if yours are really stuck hard.

[DGXSER]

Damhik

Well, the second pilot is being a real PITA. The top is basically completely stripped off now. I am thinking the next option is to use an extractor. I have a smallish screw/reverse drill bit type, but am concerned it is only going to drill a hole with no bite. For this soft material would the cross type be better? I have a feeling the mixture screw is heading the same direction.

[DGXSER]

Thanks to Catatonic for the suggestion (in another thread) to get the #1 extractor at HD, it worked perfect for the second pilot for me as well. Now for the bloody mixture screw. And ordering the rebuild kit that has all of them in it.

[DGXSER]

Which Kit to get?

Georgefix on ebay has two kits, one says it is for the 80 special the other for the 80-81 midnight and the 81 special. Item # 360118078973

The other says it is for the 80 specials Item # 360116773238

According to my Clymer manual, they are the same carb for the 80 and 81 specials. One kit cost more and has lets jets and no needle. Anyone know if Clymer is wrong? What the difference is?

[Cobia]

Possible solution

Hey DG,
I just went throught the same situation. Read this thread for helpful tips,

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20533

Good luck, it can be frustrating and scary at times.

[bikerphil]

carb kits

The kit you need is 360118078973. That other kit has extra jets (they look like the wrong ones) and the diaphram needle, which you probably don't need. As long as you have the BS34 III carbs (late type), you should be fine with the above mentioned kit.

[DGXSER]

Well, The thrill is gone now. The f#$%^^ extractor snapped off in the mixture screw. I used a pencil torch and soaked it in blaster for the last 30 hours. Still it snapped the bloody extractor off. Not sure what to do with it now. Perhaps find a machine shop that can mill it out. Or talk to a local bike shop see if they can deal with it. Always two steps forward, one step back (or more).

Anyone know a way around this one? I have a titanium drill bit, but only hand held drills and a dremel. Bit will surely will slip into the softer brass and aluminum before it takes out the hardend extractor. Those threads which I can not see yet are soooo small and so easy to kill I am sure. Drilling it out seems like so much better of an idea now!!

Maybe I just leave that one in and put the rest back together with the new kits?? Leaving it be for the night for sure.

[Cobia]

The diamond bit, I found, will cut through both materials so you can make a slot for the screwdriver.

[MickT]

Pops and bangs may be the cause of bad fuel if its stood for a while, found my Midnight special does it when the engine is cold on start up, when its warm runs fine did expirance bangs out of the exhaust one time, that was due to the header pipes been loose at the head and the gaskets had just about had it.

just an idea

MickT