I wonder what I can do to make the forks move a little more up and down. They are so darn stiff they only move about one inch and that is over a speed bump hard enough to rattle my teeth. My other forks would move as much as 4" on hard braking and these don't move only about 1/4" with hard front brake use.
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Very stiff
You can't stay young forever, but you can be immature for the rest of your life...
'78E "Pathfinder" Show bike...
Lovingly restored by Dave Delzell
Drilled airbox
Tkat fork brace
Hardly mufflers
late model carbs
Newer style fuses
Oil pressure guage
Custom security system
Stainless braid brake linesTags: None
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Hmmm. Do you know if a PO may have replaced the springs with much stiffer ones? Have you changed your fork oil lately? I guess if the oil got really sludgey or if someone put gear lube in the forks, that could make them pretty stiff. Those are the only ideas I have.Tim Ripley - Gaithersburg, MD
1981 XS1100 Special "Spoiled Rotten" Just sold - currently bikeless!!
23mm float height
120 main jets
42.5 pilot jets
drilled stock airbox with K&N
Jardine 4 to 1 Exhaust
spade fusebox
1st and 2nd gear fix
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The fluid only acts as a damper. If the springs are at maximum compression, ie bottoming-out, it is time for new ones. Preload only starts the springs at an already shortened length, so that will probably not work to adjust that if they are actually bottoming out...
Originally posted by planedick View PostI wonder what I can do to make the forks move a little more up and down. They are so darn stiff they only move about one inch and that is over a speed bump hard enough to rattle my teeth. My other forks would move as much as 4" on hard braking and these don't move only about 1/4" with hard front brake use.Skids (Sid Hansen)
Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.
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Originally posted by skids View PostThe fluid only acts as a damper. If the springs are at maximum compression, ie bottoming-out, it is time for new ones. Preload only starts the springs at an already shortened length, so that will probably not work to adjust that if they are actually bottoming out...Tim Ripley - Gaithersburg, MD
1981 XS1100 Special "Spoiled Rotten" Just sold - currently bikeless!!
23mm float height
120 main jets
42.5 pilot jets
drilled stock airbox with K&N
Jardine 4 to 1 Exhaust
spade fusebox
1st and 2nd gear fix
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I've got progressive springs in mine, and they stuck out of the tubes about 1.5" before the caps were on when I installed them. Even with these much-longer-than-stock springs I still get some dive in the front end on hard-braking. Are you sure your tubes are straight and undamaged? If they are I'd go with the good reverend's suggestion and change the fork oil.I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.
'79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines
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too much air in the forks?
I am not sure what the air is supposed to be, but I have 28 psi in mine, since 9 just wasn't enough to keep from scraping the pipes on bumps. I am a big guy, so if you weigh in at less than 300, 28 is probably too much. JATIch habe dich nicht gefragt.
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Compare the springs in your "new" set of forks to the springs in your old set. You could swap them out. The new forks might also have spacers in them to increase the pre-load. JAT2H7 (79) owned since '89
3H3 owned since '06
"If it ain't broke, modify it"
☮
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My Manuel calls for 10wt. oil, if you use a heaver oil or overfill the tubes it will cause the forks to be stiff, Did you use preload spacers? I run Progressive springs with a Windjammmer fairing and no spacers without fork sag in fact I cut one turn off the springs and still have 1/2" of the fork above the triple clamps.Fastmover
"Just plant us in the damn garden with the stupid
lion". SHL
78 XS1100e
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Stiff forks
Sounds like you may have some other issues going on. Theres alot of variables to try and eliminate. Make sure physically the forks and tubes are in good shape before resorting to a hydralic issue. My factory dresser likes Silcolene 15w and 6-9psi. Still has the original springs and has no "sag". I believe if front were to bottom out, you already wrecked. What happens over years and miles of hydralics forcing the oil through small orfices to dampen compression and rebound speed is enlargement of orfices, even as minimal as this is, the heavier viscosity oil slows that dampening speed back down. Don't skimp on cost of fork oil either, as the above is as good as it gets, and thats from years of moto-cross racing, not a promo. Let us all know here what the issue was when you get it all straightened out81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.
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Oil
I recently purchased these forks from Andreas, very straight, stock springs and arrived seemingly without oil. I found that I had filled them too full. Apparently there was some oil in them and when I put the required amount it was too much. I have since drained out a little and the forks are now much more like what they should be.You can't stay young forever, but you can be immature for the rest of your life...
'78E "Pathfinder" Show bike...
Lovingly restored by Dave Delzell
Drilled airbox
Tkat fork brace
Hardly mufflers
late model carbs
Newer style fuses
Oil pressure guage
Custom security system
Stainless braid brake lines
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