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  • removing chrome

    I have several parts on which the chrome is peeling and bubbling up from oxidation. Is there a simple way to get this stuff off, other than several hundred hours with a razor blade?
    Ich habe dich nicht gefragt.

  • #2
    When I was at the powder coating place the other day I was talking to him about doing my fenders in black. He told me that they now have a process where they can remove all the components of chrome and take it down to the bare metal, so that paint or powder coat can adhere properly. I can try to get hold of him and see what the process is called or where it is done. He did also say that it was about 125 bucks to do four chrome car wheels so it aint exactly the cheapest method. Of course depending on what you want to achieve it may be the best option too. Maybe others on here are familiar with the process or have other suggestions. I have heard that Easy Off oven cleaner in a sealed bag will work but that is not something I know for sure so take that with a grain of salt. Good luck
    2-79 XS1100 SF
    2-78 XS1100 E Best bike Ever
    80 XS 1100 SG Big bore kit but not fully running yet.
    Couple of more parts bikes of which 2 more will live!

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    • #3
      Ivan - Unless I'm mistaken, chrome plating is done through an electrolysis process. Might try PMing The Lorax or Geezer. We had a thread going on plating the inside of a gas tank a month or so ago, and both these individuals seem to know a lot about plating. They might know how to reverse the process.
      I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

      '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

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      • #4
        Off of what?

        Hi Ivan,
        if you mean removing chrome from metal parts, sand-blasting or reverse plating both work. If you mean the chrome plating on plastic parts (an invention of the Devil IMHO) I reckon careful mechanical methods will work the best to get the chrome off without destroying the part underneath.
        Fred Hill, S'toon
        XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
        "The Flying Pumpkin"

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        • #5
          You can sandblast and then sand the crome to scuff it. Then to paint it you can use a etching primer. This was recomended to me by the painter who is going to paint up my ride this winter.


          Ozz
          Four wheels move your body, two wheels move your soul.

          ATGATT, It could save your life!

          1980 XS 1100SG
          Dyna 3 Ohm Hi Output Coils
          Pod Filters
          DynoJet Kit
          T.C.'s Fuse Block
          Slip Streamer Turbo Windshield
          Custom Tank and Side Cover Decals
          V-Max Auto CCT

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          • #6
            You can also take your chromed parts to a plating shop and have them electrically strip off the chrome. Then you can proceed straight to paint or powdercoat as long as you don't have a lot of pitting.
            Ken Talbot

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            • #7
              If the Pieces are metal underneath, sink it in a simple solution of de -ionized water and sulfuric acid (I think) Sulfuric will break down the nickle under the chrome (you may need boric acid as well), but I'm not sure what breaks down chromium. I imagine nitric acid would, not much fun to be around, but I think it might work. anyway, hook up a power supply (small voltage, big current) positive should go to the piece in question, the negative to some other piece of metal (add some molasses just for grins as an organic brightner to aid in the deposition of the metal to the "some other piece of metal" no real purpose for the brightener, you just might get some kind of interesting looking piece of metal when finished. that should do it, although a sand (or bead) blaster might be faster and less expensive, I think if you have a compressor, you can pick up a basic sand blaster relatively inexpensively. yes, chemicals and electricity can be loads of fun, but a simple mechanical process might have fewer headaches involved. all I got for now, have a nice day and ride safe
              I am the Lorax, I speak for the Trees

              '80 XS1100 SG (It's Evil, Wicked, Mean & Nasty)

              '79 XS1100 F R (IL Barrachino)

              '00 Suzuki Intruder 1400 (La Soccola)

              '77 KZ400s (La Putana)

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              • #8
                the pieces in question are the covers for the alternator, ignition and clutch basket, all of which are aluminum covered in chrome. With the chrome being hardr than the aluminum, I suspect a bead blaster would erode the aluminum more in places where the chrome isn't stuck, and less where it is still firmly affixed. Hence the chemical question.

                Boric acid is easy to come by, not sure the strength though. I use it for canker sores.

                Sulfuric acid and nitric acid would erode the aluminum correct? I know nitric acid is used as a cleaner for the aluminum prior to anodizing, but an extended soak would be detrimental to it wouldn't it?
                Ich habe dich nicht gefragt.

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                • #9
                  Hey Ivan,

                  Acid works well on Ferrous materials, and can turn a hunk of steel into a nicely encrusted rusted particle fairly quickly.

                  With aluminum, it's ALKALI's that are harmful, and a strong soap/alkali WILL dissolve aluminum, but I don't think the acid will!? As mentioned, they use an ACID bath to ANODIZE aluminum, which is sealing the raw metal's pores which also puts a much harder finish to it.

                  Depending on what you are wanting to do with the parts once you have the chrome removed.....I'm assuming you will polish the aluiminum, but if you were going to rechrome it, then I would think that the place to have it rechromed would be able to remove the old first!? Have Fun!
                  T.C.
                  T. C. Gresham
                  81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
                  79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
                  History shows again and again,
                  How nature points out the folly of men!

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by TopCatGr58 View Post
                    Hey Ivan,

                    Acid works well on Ferrous materials, and can turn a hunk of steel into a nicely encrusted rusted particle fairly quickly.

                    With aluminum, it's ALKALI's that are harmful, and a strong soap/alkali WILL dissolve aluminum, but I don't think the acid will!?
                    Acids can dissolve aluminum very quickly. Be careful.
                    Skids (Sid Hansen)

                    Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

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