Finally got my bike going!!!! few small problems and some pics

[bikerphil]

plugs

The "R" is resistor plug, used if you have a radio on your bike, to reduce electrical interference. Get some new NGK BP6ES (P/N 7333) non-resistor plugs, gap 'em to .028"-.032". Also, if you already haven't done so, unscrew the 4 spark plug caps and cut about 1/4" off the wire ends and screw them back in. Now you'll know you have solid connections.

[TopCatGr58]

The only difference in those plugs are that they are "R"esistor style. Designed to cut down radio frequency interference. If you have resistor plug caps, not really needed, but usually doesn't cause any problems.

HOWEVER, I'm not a true electrical guru, but I think that if your coils are weak, adding even more resistance to the flow of the power spark impulse could cause a possible weakening of the spark at the plug!? Our OEM coils produce about 15Kvolts, the stock plug caps are 5-8kohms ea, and I don't know the ratings of the actual spark plugs resistance?
T.C.

[fredintoon]

Hi first,
Clymer's sez BP-6ES is the plug to use. The R means it's a resistor plug while the Clymer recommended one ain't. Common thought is that one should run resistor plugs OR resistor plug caps but NOT both. BTW, which tips have been removed?
If it's the little coke-bottle shaped thingie that screws off the terminal to leave a threaded end, that may or may not be OK depending if your plug caps are designed to snap onto the coke-bottle thingie or onto the bare thread. If the tip is missing off the business end of the plug, it's scrap.

[dbeardslee]

Firstxs and I were pming a little about this, and I believe the tip he's talking about is the screw off variety. In the pictures it appears that he still has the stock coils and possibly the stock caps. I wasn't sure if the stock caps are the resistor type or not. With resistor plugs, resistor caps, ballast resistor, and thirty-year-old wires, it seemed like it was something that could potentially be causing his low rpm problem.

[firstxs1100]

sounds like resistor restricter!!!!!

it does have all this resistor stuff. i did check my pickup wires and it didn't seem to move all that much. looked like something around 1/4 inch to 3/8 movement if that. dont know if this is important or not but!!!!!! i pulled on them from both ends and still runs like a scalded dog.

[TopCatGr58]

The plug caps easily unscrew off of the wires, and it would probably be a good idea to do so, both to check for corrosion between the wire end and where it attaches to the plug cap. And then you can put an ohmeter on the plug caps and check for resistance, will probably find that they are 5-8k ohms, each. IF much more, then the internal resistor and connections may be corroded, causing Xcessive resistance. They can be disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled, or you can get new ones for a few bucks each from MikesXS! NGK brand no less, and in NON resistor style as well!!

While you have the caps off, check the secondary resistance of the coils as well, should be about 15kohm IIRC, see tech tips or manual for specifics!

If corrosion found on the wire end, cut back 1/4" at a time till you get to good copper wire. If you have to cut too much off where the cap won't reach the plug, time to get some new wires...see tip, but recommend both new mikesxs coils while you're at it, again see tech tips!

The ballast resistor is on the LOW power side of the coils, not the HIGH TENSION side, and are needed with the OEM coils, but can be bypassed if new mikesxs coils installed!
T.C.

[firstxs1100]

getten coil'ed!!!

i checked the ignition wires today and they felt like they had been mumified for 30 years. as hard as they can be. no give just solid. cant be good!!! i will check ohms but i think i will let my money grow a few more days and then get the good stuff. correct me if i'm wrong but all i need from mikesxs is two coils some wire and 4 caps. is this right. i think i need two sets of wires right. im ready to get out on these cold days and do some riding!!!! am i crazy or just love riding. as far as the resistor plugs i have will they be fine. i hate to have to throw out something that is brand new.

[TopCatGr58]

Yep, that's right, all you need, and your resistor plugs will be just fine. You'll be pleasantly surprised how much easier it will be to start it as well, with the extra power. Also, you can get the short 90 degree caps, there's plenty of room to fit them, you don't need to get any fancy long tipped ones like the OEMS!? And don't forget to bypass the ballast resistor! These coils feed on full 12 volts ALL THE TIME!
T.C.

[dbeardslee]

First - When you get the Mikes XS coils you will find they come with four small rubber donuts that fit over the end of the high tension wires where they attach to the coils. Do yourself a favor and spray a little WD40 on the ends of the wires before you slide the donuts on the wires. If you do, they'll slip right on the wires and you'll be able to tighten the coil caps all the way down using only your fingers, and they won't back out. When I first got mine I tried putting them together dry and wound-up breaking one of the caps.

Here's what you need:

Part #17-6803 - High output coils - Qty 2
Part #17-6803 (black) or Part #23-2906 (yellow) - 7mm High tension wires - Qty 2
Part #23-3114 - NGK non-resistor plug caps - Qty 4

You'll also need four 1/4" female spade connectors (waterproof preferred), and you'll need to cut the electrical bullet connectors and wires off the old coils - recommend cutting them close to the coils so you have as much wire to work with as possible. Crimp the spade connectors on the old wires and use them to power-up the new coils. You can get those at just about any hardware store.

[firstxs1100]

did some work and gave another type of problem

after waiting for a colortune to come in the mail from a very helpfull xs member. i did the colortune jig and got the bunsen blue type flame dancen. checked the idle screws just to be sure no broke ends. hooked up a set of synch gauges and got all carbs synched to one another. took down the road and now instead of having trouble pulling in fourth and fifth at low rpm cruising it now has alot of power from idle to around 3000 and then slacks from there all the way up to around 6000 rpm and then after that it runs like all getout. pulled plugs and still black and sutty. shop said the diaphrams looked good.

[dbeardslee]

I'm wondering if the slide needle height might have something to do with the flat spot between 3 and 6k.

[bikerphil]

Yes, as mentioned, make sure your jet needles are in pos. #3 (center). Float level should be 25.7mm +or- 1mm from the carb body, upside down, no gasket. If all the floats aren't the same height, and slide needle positions, it's not gonna run right. In my experience with a colortune, these bikes prefer a slight orange-ish color at idle.