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Crazcnuk just performed that operation and lunched the motor ... check it out with this link...http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...5&goto=newpost .... read the last couple of posts and I think it'll give you some insight.
In general, it is a relatively benign operation. Be sure to remove the left engine cover and roll the motor clockwise with a 19mm open end wrench by the square bolt on the timing wheel until the 'C' mark is at the pointer. Only then do you loosen the lock nut and set screw releasing the foot. Only the slightest amount of torque on the set screw and lock nut is necessary to hold the foot in position. It is a good idea to roll the motor over again by the wrench before hitting the starter button ..... ask Craz
79F Stone stocker and former daily driver, sold May '10 now converting for N.O. to cafe style 79SF eventually dismantled for parts 79F Bought almost new in 80, sold for a house 79F The Ernie bike sold to a Navy dude summer 08 79SF Squared-off Special, Vetter/Bates tour pkg., Mikes XS coils, G rear fender and tail light. Sold June 09
It is possible that someone has had the timing plate off of Craz's motor and forced the plate on in the wrong position (180 degrees off) causing him to do the adjustment in the wrong position of the valves. That thing is made to put on only one way, but it is easily forced on @ 180 off.
You can't stay young forever, but you can be immature for the rest of your life...
'78E "Pathfinder" Show bike...
Lovingly restored by Dave Delzell
Drilled airbox
Tkat fork brace
Hardly mufflers
late model carbs
Newer style fuses
Oil pressure guage
Custom security system
Stainless braid brake lines
I have actually had a timing wheel that fit nicely in both directions .... frightening ... it always pays to look at the wheel and advance governer REAL close before reinstalling it ....
79F Stone stocker and former daily driver, sold May '10 now converting for N.O. to cafe style 79SF eventually dismantled for parts 79F Bought almost new in 80, sold for a house 79F The Ernie bike sold to a Navy dude summer 08 79SF Squared-off Special, Vetter/Bates tour pkg., Mikes XS coils, G rear fender and tail light. Sold June 09
I thought xnavy was just asking about adjusting the tension. All you have to do is take the timing cover off, set it to 'C' on the timing wheel (6mm allen wrench will turn it), loosen the lock nut, loosen the bolt, retighten the bolt (5ft lbs - don't overtighten), retighten the lock nut, put the timing cover back on and your done. You can pull the plug out of the end (might need a little sealant when you put it back) and measure from the end of the adjuster to the end of the housing if you think you're running out of adjustment. There's a post running around here somewhere with the measurements.
I looked and couldn't find that thread, but I did find this"
I think that the only way you will hear an audible click is if you take it off, cock it, put it back on, release it.
Here is what I think you do to test the adjustability left in the tensioner:
1 Adjust it as usual.
2 remove the tensioner.
3 measure the length from some reference on the plunger to the housing.
4 release the plunger to let it traval as far as it will go.
5 repeat step 3
6 compare measurements from steps 3 and 5. The difference is what is left in the adjustment (Given that the gasket thickness will be the same when it is reinstalled)
Be aware that wear of the cam chain is not the only cause for loss in the adjustment capacity of the tensioner. The chain slipper is another wearable item, but it requires the removal of the head (I think) to replace it. The chain is the lesser of the two evils when it comes to cost and labor. Don't be too surprised if you gain less than a quarter of an inch when replacing the cam chain.
__________________
Skids
The instructions for the adjustment are a bit more PRECISE than what you have stated. It's not just setting the timing mark to "C", but that you need to rotate the engine CW(from the left side) several times past the "C", and then slowly approach it until you reach it. IF you accidentally pass it, you do NOT rotate backwards/CCW but continue around again. This is VERY IMPORTANT in creating and maintaining the tension on the back side of the chain between the crank and cams, AND providing the most SLACK on the front side for the best tension adjustment possible!
T.C.
T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case! History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
Perhaps one other important thing to add is that after you position the crank at the C mark, DO NOT ROTATE the crank until you have the tensioner adjusted and lock nuts tightened again. Cam chain could slip a tooth or two causing a ruckus.
Mike Giroir
79 XS-1100 Special
Once you un-can a can of worms, the only way to re-can them is with a bigger can.
In late September I spent about 10 days out Wilkesboro with a lady friend of mine .... she was a bunch of fun .... but I was struck by how beautiful the countryside is out there and how clean and neat everything looks. California if FULL of junk .... everywhere .... Loved the area though. One thiing for sure is .... that is Harley country through and through. After a while I got kinda' sick of her trashin' Yamahas though. She has a perfect little 250 Virago that she bought to learn to ride on but her buddies have convinced her not to even GET ON a NON HARLEY. She thinks she needs a Softtail to learn on .... a 1400 .... yeah, right !! Pretty stupid, huh? Needless to say WE didn't last much longer after that
79F Stone stocker and former daily driver, sold May '10 now converting for N.O. to cafe style 79SF eventually dismantled for parts 79F Bought almost new in 80, sold for a house 79F The Ernie bike sold to a Navy dude summer 08 79SF Squared-off Special, Vetter/Bates tour pkg., Mikes XS coils, G rear fender and tail light. Sold June 09
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