Brakes

[kevinsudd]

ok i replaced the brake pads and back brake master cylinder. why would the brakes feel like they are on. dont the pads relaese after putting them on LOL. just someon who took on a job of doing things himself

[RiskyBusiness]

On certain XS models (79 Special for example) the front pads are mirror images of each other. If you get a right pair on the left, or vice versa, they will bind (and be a bear to put on, trust me).

But if I understand you, it is your REAR brakes that are feeling "on?" Do they get tighter when you press the peddle?

[sixtysix]

Check the tech tips for 'cleaning the spooge hole' or do a search for it here, covered many times in last few months.

[Ken Talbot]

World's first clear sighting of rear m/c spooge hole!

In case you didn't actually tear that new rear master cylinder completely down before you installed it, here's what a clear spooge hole will look like with a bit of back illumination:

[img]/forum/images/tips/20030409-dsc02121.jpg[/img]
Yes, it is the tiny dot in the middle of the larger dark circle, not the larger bore below the dark circle.

Just for the record, this is the world's first known photo of this little bugger where you can actually see the hole. I wrote a tip quite some time back that sort of showed where it would be, but you still had to use a bit of imagination to see it.

I'm finally getting around to doing a full brake rebuild on SWMBO's 'H, complete with Goodridge braided SS lines and genuine Yamaha rebuild kits. The rear brake system started giving us some grief in northern California last summer when we were just turning back home from our Oregon Coast trip. A quick look at the fluid that came out of it gives a bit of a clue that was happening:
[img]/forum/images/tips/20030409-dsc02110.jpg[/img]

The crusty bits around the caliper piston gave another clue:
[img]/forum/images/tips/20030409-dsc02111.jpg[/img]

Then, the $&!## that came out around the piston in the master cylinder really brought it home:
[img]/forum/images/tips/20030409-dsc02119.jpg[/img]

There's no doubt that a proper rebuild was long overdue.

If you think it feels like your rear brake may not be releasing fully, this is the place to start.

[fusionking]

Man that is a really nasty thing to look at!! What was that scene rated? I think I'd hide it from the kids & in your case the wife! But most your insurance man. LOL Garry

[schpiff]

EEWWW

looks like the stuff that comes into the shop after 100k of "loyal" penzoil usage
And Might I add...thats a pretty REVEALING shot of yer spooge hole

[uk1.1s]

Spooge

You wouldn't catch me showing my spooge hole on the internet!!

[kevinsudd]

yes but they stay on its like i am holding the brake peddle on. on this maxim model the left front brake and the back are controoled by the foot peddle

[Ken Talbot]

Okay, that puts a bit of a different slant on it. Let's try a few diagnostic questions and see where this leads:

• how much free play is there at the rear brake pedal linkage where it presses against the plunger in the rear m/c?
• did you tear down and rebuild the m/c before you installed it?
• if you ride for a bit, does the rear rotor get hot to the touch?
• as above, does the left front rotor get hot?
• WAG at something different, does the right front rotor get hot?
• do all three rotors get hot?

If both the rear rotor and the left front rotor get hot the m/c spooge hole could be plugged, or the pedal may not be adjusted properly(i.e. the brake is never released so the pads are continually dragging)

If the rear rotor get hot but the left front stays cool, the m/c spooge hole and the proportioning valve could both be plugged, or the piston in the rear caliper could be severely rusted/pitted/stuck in the caliper.

If the left front rotor get hot, the piston in that caliper could be rusted/pitted/stuck.

If the right front rotor gets hot, the front m/c spooge hole could be plugged, or this piston could be stuck in its caliper.

[Jerry]

In additon to Ken's fine suggestions, here is one more.

When I first got my XJ, the rear brake pedal shaft was crudded up and would not let the pedal come back to the full 'up' position. This left some pressure on the M/C at all times.

Solution: take the brake pedal shaft out of the bike, clean it really well, then put it back together using white lithium or other high quality grease. You might be surprised the improvement in brake feel you get.

I had a plugged spooge hole on the same bike, rebuilt the M/C and switched to SS lines at the same time. Between that and the lube job on the pedal shaft, I have not had a brake problem since, linked brakes and all.